Rev limiter

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AuroraGirl

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I'll see what I have in my parts stash, but I'll probably need to add that to the list.


I haven't checked in awhile. It's not a "bad" idle, its just what GM programmed the thing to do. Been tolerant of it for years, but every now and again I get irritated by it and miss how smoothly I could shift the Fords. Any throttle input will cause the ECM to command higher IAC counts, how much so depends on what gear it thinks you're trying to grab, if it's hot or cold and if the idle has come down or not yet. If it goes into "stall" mode it's even wonkier (idles real high) until it regains it's bearings & feels it isn't going to stall.


I'll proudly drive either rig, but in the drivability category and in my experience, Fords are. I wouldn't mention them if I didn't think they did that better. Now, maybe its the difference between port fuel injection and throttle body injection, but I absolutely loved the 300 straight sixes I've had along with the 5.0 trucks. I want a 5.8 at some point, but now like the GMT400's, people want stupid money for an '88 to '97 F250/350. They all start up and quickly come down to 1000 RPM idle or less rather quickly. And if it's an automatic, you can put it in gear without having to ride the brakes to keep it from doing 20 mph+. They run smooth, the SEFI 302 in my Lincoln is silky smooth as well. Due to throttle geometry they don't snap your neck back when you touch into the throttle either. However, the Ford trucks of that era ride like chit compared to the GMT400 trucks. At least 2WD vs 2WD, which is all I can compare by actual experience. The '92 C1500 I had rode like a car, whereas every F150/250 I've had of that era rides like a tank, probably thanks to the I-beams. However, I still liked them. I'm especially fond the F-series' '87-'91 interiors, but '92 and up will let you plug a scan tool into it and stream live data. I bet the V8 Vortec equipped GMT400 stuff runs much like the Ford stuff does.



A 77.. something. I'll have to get back to you on that. I've never actually had to pull the ECM out, yet.
Well, the reason I said no on the ford Is I have one
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The green is my gmt 400(dad uses it) and my silver f150 is my truck I use, both are 2wd, 96, and the chevy has the 350 and 4l60e, but the ford has the 300 and the e4od. But being a 96 , the ford has EEC-V computer system, which is hell for me because the service data, knowledge about how it works is harder to get than the eec-iv trucks, but eec-v is ultimately better. Im currently chasing a lot of years of sitting and poor electrical insulation and obtuse complex emissions controlled with vacuum and electronics. The IAC needs to be replaced, and ive hammered out a lot of other problems. Its next. I know it overshoots since its a factory issue they had a TSB For even(forgot, maf is up too) So once those are changed. We will see, hopefully. It likes to lope idle.
Once in closed loop, its a mess because I need to replace exhaust manifold studs so the o2 probably arent sealed properly
 

ralmo94

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EEC-V computer system, which is hell for me because the service data, knowledge about how it works is harder to get than the eec-iv trucks,
From my understanding not as easy to tell what the computer is doing on those for tuning or diagnostics. And not as hackable. And I think there is a lot of Mis information about there theory of operation as well.
 

AuroraGirl

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From my understanding not as easy to tell what the computer is doing on those for tuning or diagnostics. And not as hackable. And I think there is a lot of Mis information about there theory of operation as well.
Correct, my engine had a knock sensor equipped and I did a DEEP Dive to find out if the thing truly was "useless" as in it did nothing. I have to pay for an official license of ford EEC-V calibration/software definition file, to then plunge into the text of it to find and see if there is any logic related to the knock sensor.

my EEC-V strategy AGANF (and or AGANFRE?),my EEC-V catchcode KKD0, my EEC-V hardware code (PCM) ML1-421

to then read and find out if the knock sensor truly does anythign, I have to pay up to ford since the strategy (96 obd2 4.9l E4OD) is not popular for tuning, no one has it published.
 

ralmo94

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Correct, my engine had a knock sensor equipped and I did a DEEP Dive to find out if the thing truly was "useless" as in it did nothing. I have to pay for an official license of ford EEC-V calibration/software definition file, to then plunge into the text of it to find and see if there is any logic related to the knock sensor.

my EEC-V strategy AGANF (and or AGANFRE?),my EEC-V catchcode KKD0, my EEC-V hardware code (PCM) ML1-421

to then read and find out if the knock sensor truly does anythign, I have to pay up to ford since the strategy (96 obd2 4.9l E4OD) is not popular for tuning, no one has it published.
Yeah, I'd be almost tempted in such a situation to swap in an AOD and gm pcm. If one knew trans control operations enough gm could probably be rigged to shift an E4OD. Then there is always mega shift, or carb swap. While we are in there why don't we just swap in a 8.1 and Allison. Lol.
 

AuroraGirl

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Yeah, I'd be almost tempted in such a situation to swap in an AOD and gm pcm. If one knew trans control operations enough gm could probably be rigged to shift an E4OD. Then there is always mega shift, or carb swap. While we are in there why don't we just swap in a 8.1 and Allison. Lol.
If it wasnt an inline 6 (Like a small block windsor) I would just use a carb tbh, I know enough to cut **** out and make my life simpler.
BUT
Because the inline 6 is port , and the old carb 300s had bad leaning at 1 and 6 , The power gains EFI brings for 300 are also nice.
But an E4OD aftermarket controller isnt hard to setup. I would keep the E4OD unless I went to a manual because i Use the truck for heavier duty things than I should, and an AODe (4r70w) is lighter duty and has a tv cable etc..
But if I were to swap a gm powerplant in I would be talking a pontiac 400 and th400 or a buick 350 and a th400 or th350(I have both in BOP)
I also have a 72 400 chevy and a th350 laying about . but Its broken case lol.
 

DerekTheGreat

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I forgot to mention that I usually cringe any time I open the hood on my Lincoln or those F-series trucks when I had one. Just so many cans, wires, hoses and all of that, looks like they're on life support. You might be able to spot 3 of the 8 spark plugs, somewhere under all that mess is an engine. However, open the hood on my GMT400, ahhh, that's more like it, simplicity. The Fords run great when they run, but troubleshooting can be a PITA. Guess that's the price one must pay for all that smoothness. Good thing is, once you get them situated, they tend to stay that way for a long time.
 

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Correct, my engine had a knock sensor equipped...

...to then read and find out if the knock sensor truly does anythign, I have to pay up to ford since the strategy (96 obd2 4.9l E4OD) is not popular for tuning, no one has it published.
I don't understand.

How can the knock sensor "NOT" "do anything"?

Take a small hammer, tap on the cylinder head or engine block. The idle speed better reduce as the computer pulls timing advance to "eliminate the knocking". If it doesn't, it's broken.

I used to do that as part of a "tune-up" on GM vehicles. Verified the knock sensor system worked.
 

AuroraGirl

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I don't understand.

How can the knock sensor "NOT" "do anything"?

Take a small hammer, tap on the cylinder head or engine block. The idle speed better reduce as the computer pulls timing advance to "eliminate the knocking". If it doesn't, it's broken.

I used to do that as part of a "tune-up" on GM vehicles. Verified the knock sensor system worked.
the plastic part of the sensor has been disintegrated since I got the truck, and The connectors wires were both rubbed bare, and it DOES carry a 5v reference , so It could at least pull that low(or high, its next to the ignition system lol) so I sealed up those wire ends since the connector was shot too. So unfortunately cannot test it, and its mildly expensive because "they dont do anything" and "no one makes em" and thats a lot of money to test out a theory lol...
since my truck has a crank position sensor, it does do misfire monitoring, but its unclear if it has any ability to control spark advance in that case, but the igintion IS computer controlled dwell, and Ive also read that CCD ford trucks dont need knock sensor but then It just made me wonder how would it know?? lol
 

AuroraGirl

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I forgot to mention that I usually cringe any time I open the hood on my Lincoln or those F-series trucks when I had one. Just so many cans, wires, hoses and all of that, looks like they're on life support. You might be able to spot 3 of the 8 spark plugs, somewhere under all that mess is an engine. However, open the hood on my GMT400, ahhh, that's more like it, simplicity. The Fords run great when they run, but troubleshooting can be a PITA. Guess that's the price one must pay for all that smoothness. Good thing is, once you get them situated, they tend to stay that way for a long time.
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To a quick observer you wouldnt think this is a I6 LOL.


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You can see the knock sensor between the coil and distributor thats white, down low, behind wire conduit kinda.
 

ralmo94

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Because the inline 6 is port , and the old carb 300s had bad leaning at 1 and 6 , The power gains EFI brings for 300 are also nice.
My 86' carbed 300 pulled a lot better than the 88' Multi port I test drove. the 88' fell on it's face above 3k, the 86' pulled clear till 5k, I don't think the 88' would even rev that high. Both manuals.

Jegs used to have a 4 barrel manifold for the i6's
 
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