Return line delete possible??

[Schurkey]

Yea I have 2 big ones and small one. ??

Trace the tube from the charcoal canister back to the tank. I bet you'll find you have one fuel supply, one fuel return, one vent to charcoal canister, one vent to fuel filler.

Photo from my '88 K1500

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[Schurkey]

Just bought a 94 suburban 2500 4x4. Had no gas tank so had to buy one. Sending unit had to buy seperate also. Plastic one from 97 tahoe. The return line port is broken off.

Why are you installing broken parts?

Goin to run high pressure inline pump along frame.

Why not put the proper fuel pump in the tank, where it belongs?

 

[92Raiderburban]

Why are you installing broken parts?


Why not put the proper fuel pump in the tank, where it belongs?

This sending unit is all i have rn. Till i can find another. And since u ask, I am a CARB guy who doesnt mess with this computer efi stuff much. A fuel pump belongs on the side of the engine block. Besides, nobody wants drop the tank to replace ot. Ive messed with inline electric pumps on my 472 cad powered 80 suburban and on 87 longbed with 350 tbi. They work great. Last time I installed an inline was a 45 psi rated one on a friends 97 burb with an L31. Again im not for something just cuz the factory said so.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Yea I have 2 big ones and small one. ??

One of those goes to the Charcoal Canister.

 

[Supercharged111]

I just realized you said plastic sender with a 94 tank. Those 2 items are not compatible. Quit trying to half-ass this thing and buy the right damn sender. If your truck is set up for a plastic sender you have the wrong tank.

 

[gearheadE30]

This sending unit is all i have rn. Till i can find another. And since u ask, I am a CARB guy who doesnt mess with this computer efi stuff much. A fuel pump belongs on the side of the engine block. Besides, nobody wants drop the tank to replace ot. Ive messed with inline electric pumps on my 472 cad powered 80 suburban and on 87 longbed with 350 tbi. They work great. Last time I installed an inline was a 45 psi rated one on a friends 97 burb with an L31. Again im not for something just cuz the factory said so.

In this case, the factory setup actually is pretty good, though. It's also going to be the easiest to install, and you'll actually be able to buy replacement parts off the shelf down the road if something fails. The correct pump is readily available for your '94 tank. I see them as cheap as $65 new, and I bet you could get a junkyard one for less. You'll be time and money ahead to just use the right parts.

As @Supercharged111 said, you have to either use TBI tank and sender or L31 tank and sender. TBI tank and L31 sender aren't compatible. You could run an L31 tank and pump with TBI and it would work just fine. I've actually done this before with no issues. You can not run an L31 with a TBI pump because it will dead head before reaching L31 pressure rating.

Internal pumps benefit from being cooled by the fuel and typically also are more resistant to cavitation/pump starvation. Most fuel pumps (except gerotor style pumps) push fluid significantly better than they can pull it. In-tank pumps often also integrate a housing that will maintain fuel flow at very low fuel tank levels, where external pumps on a tank designed for internal pumps will be more prone to starving/cavitation. Carbs don't have this problem since diaphragm pumps are good at sucking fuel, and the carb float bowl acts as a reservoir/buffer if there is temporary starvation at the pickup. There is a reason that even modern cars with an external main pump still have a small low-pressure lift pump in the tank.

 

[Erik the Awful]

This sending unit is all i have rn. Till i can find another.

Man, go sell some blood, do a side job, whatever, don't half-@$$ it. My sending unit was garbage and the pump was shot, so I hit up RockAuto and got the right '89 TBI sending unit and a '99 Vortec pump for under $100. I checked, and yours is a different model and a bit pricier, but it'll run better with the right parts.

And since u ask, I am a CARB guy who doesnt mess with this computer efi stuff much.

It ain't rocket science. With carbs I've gone so far as to drill my own jets, so I know where you're coming from, but don't worry about what's in the black box until you have to. You don't have to be able to burn chips to troubleshoot and fix it. A code reader's nice, and an ALDL cable + laptop's even nicer, but when it comes down to it you can pull codes with a paperclip. It all works off suck, squish, bang, blow. We'll help you with diagnosis, but that all goes out the window when you start trying to re-engineer the system with no return line.

 

[454cid]

As @Supercharged111 said, you have to either use TBI tank and sender or L31 tank and sender. TBI tank and L31 sender aren't compatible.

L31 (Vortec) parts are split too. Early stuff uses screw together fittings, and the late stuff uses quick connects..... the filler vent moves as well, I believe. The tanks and pumps (the assembly) can't be swapped between the two. I think 98 was the first year for the quick connects.

 

[Supercharged111]

L31 (Vortec) parts are split too. Early stuff uses screw together fittings, and the late stuff uses quick connects..... the filler vent moves as well, I believe. The tanks and pumps (the assembly) can't be swapped between the two. I think 98 was the first year for the quick connects.

This. The early Vortecs I believe are compatible with the TBIs. The split came mid-97 I believe, so the big difference is plastic vs metal sender as the lines on the truck itself will be set up for one or the other.

 

[92Raiderburban]

I just realized you said plastic sender with a 94 tank. Those 2 items are not compatible. Quit trying to half-ass this thing and buy the right damn sender. If your truck is set up for a plastic sender you have the wrong tank.

well i MADE them compatible. Ive also used a tbi sender in a SQUAREBODY tank before and it worked just fine. No it didnt reach the bottom so i just ran a long fuel hose. Nuthin half assed here. Its called working with wat u got