Replaced engine No crank (Battery, starter good)

[Hungoveraviator]

At my wits end here. I replaced the engine in my truck and must have missed hooking something back up. Electronics in truck work except for wipers, horn and HVAC. When you turn the key, you hear the fuel pump but nothing from the starter. Positive to starter has power via a test light. Don’t know how to test the smaller solenoid cable without a helper.

Can anyone think of something I may have forgotten that I should check?

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Get your self a test light and a couple of long jumper leads or a 12 volt backup alarm. Hook the solenoid wire to which ever you choose and see if you have power in the start position

 

[sntrym]

The only thing I can think of would be a ground connection. The HVAC, horn, and wipers all are independent of the engine. If everything else inside (radio, ignition lights, headlights) works, it's reasonable to assume the main power cable to the fuse box is good, therefore those components may all share a ground. Did you get the ground from the rear passenger side head to firewall?

 

[Hungoveraviator]

The only thing I can think of would be a ground connection. The HVAC, horn, and wipers all are independent of the engine. If everything else inside (radio, ignition lights, headlights) works, it's reasonable to assume the main power cable to the fuse box is good, therefore those components may all share a ground. Did you get the ground from the rear passenger side head to firewall?

Would the main power cable be the positive that goes over the fan shroud and to fuse box? If so I tested that and it’s working.

I have a ground from the passenger side frame to the firewall and also from the same spot on the frame to the passenger side head. I don’t really know a ton about grounds, should that in theory work for grounding it? I took it apart so long ago that I am not fully remembering what exactly it was like.

 

[Hungoveraviator]

Get your self a test light and a couple of long jumper leads or a 12 volt backup alarm. Hook the solenoid wire to which ever you choose and see if you have power in the start position

Thanks didn’t think of that.

 

[sntrym]

Would the main power cable be the positive that goes over the fan shroud and to fuse box? If so I tested that and it’s working.

I have a ground from the passenger side frame to the firewall and also from the same spot on the frame to the passenger side head. I don’t really know a ton about grounds, should that in theory work for grounding it? I took it apart so long ago that I am not fully remembering what exactly it was like.

Yes, that is the main power cable. There should be a ground from the back of the passenger side head to the firewall, and there should also be the big ground cable from the battery to the intake manifold bolt over cylinder 2.

 

[east302]

The wipers and some of the HVAC use ground G200 which is under the driver dash in the round dash support above the parking brake. The horn pad itself (grounding to the steering wheel) may use that as well but I couldn’t tell from the wiring diagram.

Short of replacing the dash, though, I’m not sure if you went that far into it with just an engine swap.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Hungoveraviator]

The wipers and some of the HVAC use ground G200 which is under the driver dash in the round dash support above the parking brake. The horn pad itself (grounding to the steering wheel) may use that as well but I couldn’t tell from the wiring diagram.

Short of replacing the dash, though, I’m not sure if you went that far into it with just an engine swap.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s weird. I didn’t touch anything inside of the cab.

 

[east302]

Yeah, that doesn’t make much sense. Not sure if you pulled it, but there’s the big connector that goes through the firewall under the brake booster. The white one above it has several connectors that go to the wiper motor, some for airbag, one or two going down under the booster.

You must be registered for see images attach

That is C100. C266 under the steering column also shares a lot, including the ignition switch. Here are those diagrams, maybe you’ll spot something.

And dumb question, the battery cable to the driver fuse block is attached?

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Schurkey]

Verifying the grounds is not a bad plan...

...but "I" would be looking for a disconnected power wire--a fusible link coming off the battery, or something disconnected at one of the junction blocks. Something that would have been disconnected to free a wire so the engine could be removed.

For that matter, have you verified ALL the fuses?