Remodelmaster's 1999 K2500 Suburban (Burb)

[Remodelmaster]

New/Remanufactured Engine:

Welp, the time has come for me to make a decision concerning my engine and I have decided to have my engine/block 'remanufactured'. I use the Suburban daily, pulling trailers, hauling lumber back and forth to the job site and everything in-between. Ive had it since it had 32,000 actual miles on it and since my children were little (around 15 years) , so it's kinda sentimental to me.

How it transpired:

Last week, I went to the lumber yard to pick up some materials. When I got loaded and ready to go, it wouldn't crank. I had my trusty mechanic come and pick it up, installed a new ignition coil, had a few burned plug wires and a new plenum gasket. Picked it up and it's running worse than ever. We checked the compression and cylinder number 4 has 60PSI of compression. The valve is also ticking and clicking on that cylinder. With almost 226,000 miles (I know, it seems low to me too)

My options are:

1) A Valve job. $2200.00 give or take

2) Replace the engine.

After reading reviews and talking with a member here that has had experience with them and others elsewhere, I have chosen Tristar engines to do the work. My mechanic is going to remove the engine, crate it up and Tristar will pick it up and take it back to their facility. They are going to 'remanufacture' my engine. The rep there assures me that it will be done using quality parts/etc. They said once they get my engine, it will take them 3-4 weeks to get it back to me. I'll keep you all posted and let you know how it turns out.

Now, Im trying to decide what all I should buy for it while I'm waiting.

Definitely need new exhaust manifolds. Any suggestions on brand?

My fuel injectors were replaced 3 years ago with new Bosch injectors.
Do I buy new?

My water pump and radiator is three years old, but ill definitely be replacing that.

Distributer is 2 years old, but may go with one with a metal gear?

New (better) A/C compressor is also on the list of possibilities. The one thats in there now isn't but 2 or three years old but it's not as cold as I think it should be, even when everything is to spec on freon etc.

I welcome any input that any of you may have! I hope once I get it back, I can put another 226,000 miles on it.

 

[Erik the Awful]

When I got loaded and ready to go, it wouldn't crank. I had my trusty mechanic come and pick it up, installed a new ignition coil, had a few burned plug wires and a new plenum gasket. Picked it up and it's running worse than ever. We checked the compression and cylinder number 4 has 60PSI of compression. The valve is also ticking and clicking on that cylinder. With almost 226,000 miles (I know, it seems low to me too)

One cylinder down won't keep the engine from starting. You have another issue, and your mechanic is spitballing. I'd get a second opinion.

I'd retest the compression in that cylinder. I had a cylinder that tested 55 psi. I finished my compression test and went back to that cylinder and got 100 psi. Then 140, and finally 155 psi. My spark plug threads weren't clean, so each time I threaded the tester in and out it got better.

 

[Keeper]

like Erik said, chase the threads on #4 and test again. Have you had the valve cover off?

I'm sure it is just a coincidence, but #4 is the same cylinder that froze a lifter, bent a push rod, etc on one of my 99 7.4's. That was 150k ago. Heads have still never been off, and it's at 330k+ now. I have been waiting for it to die so I can upgrade, but it just won't quit.

Ignition switch harness is also an item I've had to replace on another 99 burban.... just another possible no crank source, among many

 

[Remodelmaster]

One cylinder down won't keep the engine from starting. You have another issue, and your mechanic is spitballing. I'd get a second opinion.

I'd retest the compression in that cylinder. I had a cylinder that tested 55 psi. I finished my compression test and went back to that cylinder and got 100 psi. Then 140, and finally 155 psi. My spark plug threads weren't clean, so each time I threaded the tester in and out it got better.

From what I was told, the reason that it wouldn't start was because the ignition coil was fried. My Plenum gasket had been leaking for awhile and my passenger side exhaust manifold has been cracked for 6 months or so, so im not sure if that had anything to do with the valve issue or not. For better or for worse, the ball is rolling now.

 

[Remodelmaster]

like Erik said, chase the threads on #4 and test again. Have you had the valve cover off?

I'm sure it is just a coincidence, but #4 is the same cylinder that froze a lifter, bent a push rod, etc on one of my 99 7.4's. That was 150k ago. Heads have still never been off, and it's at 330k+ now. I have been waiting for it to die so I can upgrade, but it just won't quit.

Ignition switch harness is also an item I've had to replace on another 99 burban.... just another possible no crank source, among many

Does your 99 7.4 drink antifreeze? Mine has for several years but I have never found it in the oil? I suspect that its been going out of the tail pipe but I dont know for sure.

 

[Keeper]

not yet...

 

[Remodelmaster]

Well, I finally got the engine back and it's getting ready to go back in. The following picture is where we're at today. Once we get the engine back in, we are installing a set of ceramic coated Gibson headers and a few other upgrades. I'm looking forward to getting the Burb back on the road!

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[Remodelmaster]

My mechanic has the new engine installed and everything buttoned back up, and they're hoping to fire it up for the first time today or tomorrow.

I did want to let everyone know (for those of us who didn't know) that the EGR tubes for our trucks are now available through local parts stores ($70.00 +/-) and appears to be made just as good as the originals, so no more $300+ on a used one from eBay.