Pulled distributor cap off too check rotor button

[PlayingWithTBI]

I understand that there's a torque bit idle screw some where but I couldn't find it.

That screw is for setting your base idle ~125 RPM below desired speed. Then the computer tells the IAC how many steps to open/close to maintain idle. If you adjust the Torx screw too far in to raise the idle, you'll run the risk of burning up the stepper motor in the IAC because it'll be commanded to close all the time against the valve seat.

 

[Deadman walking]

your plugs may just be so fouled that you need to clean or replace them for your engine to run well. that soot and carbon resists making a spark which could be your running issue.
Also did you time your engine per the necessary procedure for TBI? From what you said it sounds like you just turned your distributor while you had a light on it. TBI requires taking the computer out of the equation, setting, then putting it back in play

Yes I did time it out zero. pulled the est wire on the firewall tan with a black stripe. Reset the computer no codes flashing during driving it around.

Those pictures are the old cheapo distributor I replaced that one with an WAI global.

No the the transmission is a 700r4 it does not have a vaccum modulator.

It might be the cam and injectors I put in here. it's got a stage 3 480/480 lift RV cam with 454 74# injectors but I do have the adjustible fuel pressure regulator and a WALBORO 255 pump for tpi turbo charged third gens. I did have the computer flashed to handle the extra load.

 

[Deadman walking]

Oh okay I figured it wouldn't do anything if I was at a stop light and in gear. I'm thinking either plugs are a bit fouled or the IAC valve is clogged or shot or maybe even the map sensor looks like the original one. I'll have to jump back on it tomorrow morning.

That screw is for setting your base idle ~125 RPM below desired speed. Then the computer tells the IAC how many steps to open/close to maintain idle. If you adjust the Torx screw too far in to raise the idle, you'll run the risk of burning up the stepper motor in the IAC because it'll be commanded to close all the time against the valve seat.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

It might be the cam and injectors I put in here. it's got a stage 3 480/480 lift RV cam with 454 74# injectors but I do have the adjustible fuel pressure regulator and a WALBORO 255 pump for tpi turbo charged third gens. I did have the computer flashed to handle the extra load.

If I had to guess, those injectors are too much for your cam in a 350 (stock swirl port heads?). It's probably flooding out. What pressure are you running? I tried the same ones (at 15 PSI making it 79.5LB/Hr) in mine with the EBL Flash-II ECM and when I put it in VE learn with a WBO2, the EBL tried to shut off the injectors completely at idle. I went back to flow matched 61 LB/HR injectors and an 18 LB spring running at 20 PSI giving me 75.4LB/Hr.

Get a scan tool on it to look at your O2 feedback and cross counts.

 

[Deadman walking]

Yes it does have the dish sink heads they where ported a tad. (193s?) Those are off the 92 block. It's got a block from an 80 so I'm guessing those junk ass 75-80 smog pistons.

Oh and the psi is whatever a 92 454 stock prom runs I don't know what the psi is exactly they said 15 at idle 12 at 65 mph. But it don't smoke like it's running rich at idle. The injectors are stock ones for a 92 454 it doesn't have the 454 throttle body either that was ported out to 1.8 I believe.

I'll have to run and get a scan tool to see what's up with the O2 I do have a brand new one I bought and never used might just throw it on when I get the shorty headers need to redo my exhaust any way the donut seals on both sides are blown out.

 

[Deadman walking]

UPDATE after running it down the interstate the plugs seem to have cleaned themselves up finally. It idled smooth at a stop light without me have to 2 step the gas and brake I think everything is all well now I'm just hoping the cam don't eat this distributor too.



And with that I think it's safe to say this thread can finally be concluded. Will update Saturday if I remember right now I'm gonna work on getting these injectors tuned out.



Hopefully the old war horse will keep on chugging!!!!!!!!

 

[Deadman walking]

Alright here's my accelerated update due to a new problem that arose. it's not that big of deal I don't think but wanna get it resolved anyway.

The only thing that's going on now is at WOT it stumbles and back fires but other than that it runs good. I'm just going to go ahead and replace the map,tps,egr,O2,fuel filter and the pressure regulator, throttle body seal (cause there's oil all over the front of the throttle body) and plugs again.theres no telling how old those sensors are. so it's basically gonna get a good tune up.

Checked the timing again it's not jumping around and it's at zero still probably gonna retard it to 2 BTDC seems to run better there but that's after everything is replaced.

 

[Deadman walking]

Alrighty folks pulled the O2 sensor out this is what I found.

Looks like that sea foam is really hard on these things and I only used it once on this truck. Or it could be silicone poisoning or running lean gonna rule out the last one because I know for a fact it's running rich now so yay.

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[Deadman walking]

So I finally found the problem. so I got curious and was wondering why the valves where ticking all of a sudden. Pulled the passenger side valve cover and BEHOLD loose push rods on the number 2 cylinder. I hope that was it Im so ******* worn out from this crap.

 

[Deadman walking]

Alright FINAL UPDATE and recap.so I started out with a distributor that was eaten alive. ended with 2 loose rockers on the number 2 cylinder. drove it home last night and this morning its got ass loads of power now no more bogging and sputtering at the WOT or idle.

No more check engine light either I thought the motor was a gonner I just re-ringed the 80 block and had the 2 bolt main converted to 4 bolt. Put a new cast steel crank put in and lifters,cam, hardened steel pushrods,454 injectors . I rebuilt the transmission,new fuel pump, pressure regulator.almost EVERYTHING.

now I'm 100 percent sure that this thread can be closed out hopefully you can learn from my **** show here. So if your truck is ever backfiring at the after a small rebuild WOT.check your push rods.