Chevy distributor cap condensation issues

[cubandeathgrip]

I continue to have issues with my distributor cap getting moisture inside of it and basically wasting the cap and rotor this is the third time I had to replace it. We've been getting fog, rain and cold so I'm sure the dew points has been hit a few times.

I was told WD-40 spray the inside and outside of the cap and rotor helps this issue.

My thought is once I replace this cap and rotor again I would place a plastic bag over distributor to help alleviate condensation issues inside the cap.
Hoping that condensation issues stays between the bag and outside of the cap.


Has anyone experience these issues and if so ..is there a solid fix for this issue?

thanks

 

[98 Nitro]

Do a search here for the UMP cap at RockAuto or look at the reviews at Summittracing, the Summitt cap is the same as the UMP one.

 

[Schurkey]

WHAT ENGINE? Vortec 305?

1. Excessive crankcase pressure (blow-by) forcing crankcase vapors up past the distributor bushings and into the cap/rotor area. Often accompanied by oil mist making a real mess. You're not mentioning oil, so this seems unlikely. OTOH, if it's just water inside the cap, why are you replacing them instead of drying them out?

2. Missing rubber seal at the rear of the hood, allowing rainwater/condensation to drizzle down on top of the distributor.

3. Distributor cap not properly secured to the distributor. Common on Vortecs when the plastic hold-down tabs break.

If you're not seeing any of the above, I'd start with the vented United Motor Products (UMP) distributor cap and rotor as mentioned above.

 

[Caman96]

Hoping that condensation issues stays between the bag and outside of the cap.

It works the other way too.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

WHAT ENGINE? Vortec 305?

1. Excessive crankcase pressure (blow-by) forcing crankcase vapors up past the distributor bushings and into the cap/rotor area. Often accompanied by oil mist making a real mess. You're not mentioning oil, so this seems unlikely. OTOH, if it's just water inside the cap, why are you replacing them instead of drying them out?

2. Missing rubber seal at the rear of the hood, allowing rainwater/condensation to drizzle down on top of the distributor.

3. Distributor cap not properly secured to the distributor. Common on Vortecs when the plastic hold-down tabs break.

If you're not seeing any of the above, I'd start with the vented United Motor Products (UMP) distributor cap and rotor as mentioned above.

Part Number DCR820X

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Part Number DCR820X

As long as the mounting tabs aren't broken off the distributor, the UMP cap and rotor should fix this problem. If the cowl/hood seals need changing then that needs doing too.
I live in Houston, Texas with my family, and part of that family is my two trucks, both 5.7 Vortecs. I'm running this cap and rotor on both, and am very pleased with the performance. With the old style cap,I had to get in there and take it off and clean it a few times (never fun at 4am by flashlight!!). I don't have to do that anymore, even in our worst rains.

 

[GoToGuy]

This has been issue with GM vortec engines off and on. Here is a service bulletin although not officially covers your year, many have found it helpful for your condition.

 

[cubandeathgrip]

United Motor Products (UMP) distributor cap and rotor it is..thanks everyone.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I vacuum vented mine and clean, fresh air enters from the air intake behind the air filter.

 

[Road Trip]

I continue to have issues with my distributor cap getting moisture inside of it and basically wasting the cap and rotor this is the third time I had to replace it. We've been getting fog, rain and cold so I'm sure the dew points has been hit a few times.

For those that have wondering why this seems to a reoccurring issue, all that
sparking inside the distributor cap = lots of O3 (ozone) generation. As we know,
O2 (oxygen) is a key component of the corrosion process. By comparison, O3
is even more so. (OZONE properties)

And for all of us visual learners, (myself included) nothing like a short video
of a BBC with a clear HEI distributor cap to illustrate how that ozone is being
generated:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Once upon a time I was having trouble understanding why the General felt
it necessary to go from the affordable 'tried and true' spinning distributor setup
to all those stationary/expensive coils on parade on top of the valve covers?

Now that time has passed, and comparing COP/CNP ignitions versus the spinning
bottled lightning inside a distributor, I'm starting to pick up what the design engineers
were putting down...

Isn't it amazing that these internal combustion engines even run more than
once in a row? :0)