Prothane vs rubber body mount bushings

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Caman96

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Sure is a lot of GM part numbers to track down, since they don't include the lowers it seems.
See post #4 o_O. Yeah, I had to dig a bit
and source a couple from Brazil. But, I wanted OEM rubber, being it’s already a 4x4 truck. And yes, the lower GM 15706378 are separate.
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KansasOBS

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Thank you Caman, thats a lot of good info to have, btw. The core support mounts would have a separate part number for their lowers too wouldnt they? They were smaller than the cab lowers, if I am thinking right.
 

Caman96

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Thank you Caman, thats a lot of good info to have, btw. The core support mounts would have a separate part number for their lowers too wouldnt they? They were smaller than the cab lowers, if I am thinking right.
GM 15597629 is the lower bushing. :33:
 

Darrell

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Also for anyone that's planning to use the urethane bushings they SHOULD have the metal collar for the frame mounting hole. They are available thru a few places at around $110 std cab and $130 ext cab.

Those $90 ones found on ebay or Amazon, like my pic that show having the collars, STAY AWAY.. you won't get what you're seeing..no collars, and you need them.
 
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Dangcat

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What was said previously, Call Prothane for product questions. The instructions in the kit are next to useless. Very unspecific.

I went through my entire suspension this summer. 94 GMC extended cab Z-71. I used the Prothane kit.

I called Prothane looking for front diff. carrier bushings and nobody makes them, only GM rubber replacements are available.
Everything Prothane sent was the appropriate size for it's position... except maybe the upper/lower control arm bushings. The length was too much when shoved into the shell. I had to remove at least 0.125" of material and they were still a tight fit in the frame. ( Could be bushing shells were slightly thicker because I purchased cheap new rubber bushings to get new shells.)
Replacing the extended cab bushings lined up the truck. My doors work better now. They had collars on the bushings.
The leaf springs have an extra pack of bushings thrown in. Prothane doesn't say what they are for in the kit. I had to call and ask. Depends on which spring bushing shackle size you have. So, the shackle bushings in the box were too small. The plastic bag with extras were correct.

The only things I did not replace were the steering box and the drag link. Everything else is Moog. I tightend up the gland nut and tension nut on the box. Mark your torsion bars well. The arrows go up front and I believe point towards the tires.
Currently replacing the 10 inch drums with 11 inch and installing the 3.250 piston calipers up front.

Ride... the thing has to be broken in. Before I torqued the arms, I jumped up and down on the front bumper. The thing rode like it didn't have springs. Every seam in the road was a bump. After several trips to work and an alignment, it's getting better. Controllability is much better and I'm no longer afraid to drive it fast. Don't forget to check your arm torques and tie rod adjusters after alignment. I immediately saw the guy forgot to tighten one of the adjuster sleeves and my uppers were left at barely 55lbs. ( supposed to be about 140, I set for 120 like lowers, factory manual referenced)

Coffee cup, no bueno.... not yet. It rides like a Ford 3/4 ton service van with no load.

If you want easy, soft and VERY inexpensive, get on RockAuto and get rubber bushings.
 

Pinger

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Where do you see any rubber cab mounts on RA?
I looked there for Suburban mounts and only the core support ones were offered in rubber. The main ones were some plastic and weren't available anyway.

How do I know if I should change mine on my (low mileage) Suburban? Is there something in the driving of it that tells me?
 
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