Problem with Starter...

[MOBS]

If you can, go by the dealership's service area and tell them you need to figure out if your "truck" takes the early-94 or late-94 starter and that you have your VIN handy. They have a program similar to alldata that will tell them the exact part number for your starter, then give me that number and I'll cross reference to see if it's the early or late model. Unless ofcourse they can tell you that while you're sitting there.

 

[Z Fury]

I'll PM you the VIN tonight when I get home, if you don't mind running it for me. I can't get to the dealership until the end of the week at best (month-end is my busy time).

 

[Southern Pride]

Pretty hard to fly like an eagle when your working with turkeys.

This is sig worthy. I encounter this scenario every time I hand my truck off for something to be done.

To the OP who would of thought it could be this crucial to figure out what starter you have. That's crazy...You WILL get it figured out. Besides it's on PEP BOYS not you..You're screwed meter reading is in the negatives.

 

[MOBS]

I'll PM you the VIN tonight when I get home, if you don't mind running it for me. I can't get to the dealership until the end of the week at best (month-end is my busy time).

Alritey then, I'll go by the dealership tomorrow and ask. By chance, do you know the build date? (month/year on door sticker)

 

[Z Fury]

No luck on the build date. The ink on the door sticker is completely gone/faded. It basically looks like a somewhat dirty white sticker (you cannot make out any lettering). I'm PM'ing you the VIN now. Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated.

 

[Z Fury]

Last update, and then this thread can die.

The direct drive starter fit. I had a bit of an alignment issue, but once it was finally bolted in, it looked like a perfect fit. Battery was dead though from having sat for over a year. I got a new battery in, checked my fluid levels, said a prayer, and turned the key.

Nothing happened. The corrosion had built up pretty good in the positive battery cable - built up to the point that it took me over 10 minutes of cleaning it with a wire brush (and banging on it with a wrench) to get enough build-up off of it to make a good connection. After getting the battery a half-way decent connection, I tried the key again and it started! I'm flat-out amazed at how smooth it sounds too. You'd never guess it has been sitting for 13 months.

Anyway, I'm making a list of other things that need fixed so you'll see more threads popping up. Thanks for all the help/advice thus far, and big thanks to MOBS for doing the VIN research for me.

JC

 

[MOBS]

Happy to help man, glad ya got it figured out!!!

What starter did it turn out to be? If you have the box with part number, I'll make a note of it for later use.

Now what's next?

 

[Z Fury]

I picked up the direct drive starter from Advance - part number P6449S (WorldWide brand, reman, lifetime warranty). $134.99 + $49.00 core charge (ouch).

Next step is for me to work on the IAC, where my check engine light is coming from. This was in existence before the starter died though, so I'm not super concerned with it, but I do want to get it fixed. I've been told that it is a dirt/carbon buildup in front of the IAC. I replaced it just to make sure that wasn't the problem ($20 part, if I remember right), and that didn't fix it. So I need to pick up some carb cleaner to spray around that area and clean it up. (IAC = Idle Air Controller)

After that, the list is long.
- It needs all fluids serviced: oil change, coolant flush/fill, and transmission fluid service (it has been about 90K since the last time).
- I need to address the exhaust at some point, because it is a rusted out mess (leaks are starting).
- I think I need to replace the heater core, as I occasionally have water/something wet on my passenger floor and the coolant reservoir is always empty (this could be a lot of things, not necessarily the heater core).
- The suspension needs redone. If it were just shocks, I'd do them myself, but I think the leaf springs are about due also.
- The engine compartment and the undercarriage really need cleaned. Leaking oil from somewhere (bad valve cover gasket...?) is getting on everything down there.
- I need to replace the actuator for the 4-wheel drive, and probably have that system checked out since I haven't used 4-wheel drive in over 3 years now.
- The above mentioned oil leak needs tracked down and dealt with. Probably easier after the engine is cleaned up though.
- I see new tires in the next 6-8 months. I've been running the same Toyo Open Country set for over 6 years now (only about 25K on them though).
- The passenger door lock, the tailgate lock, and the rear glass release need to be fixed. I think the actuator to release the rear glass is just dead. The lock for the hatch is just messed up - you'd have to see it to understand (very hard to unlock, will not stay shut unless you hold it shut and relock with the key, which is very hard to turn). The passenger lock just spins, so I think some rod fell out of place. Should be an easy fix on that one once I take the door apart (fun).
- The weather seal on the rear glass is shot. Rain water doesn't flood in, but the rear carpet is always slightly damp after a hard rain (or the car wash).

I could go on with nit-picky stuff, but that's the general list as it sits now. I'm just taking a minute to enjoy the fact that it runs again. I'll create another thread to deal with the problems as I tackle them though.

 

[MOBS]

Hmmm, sounds like a good winter project. Maybe I'll get lucky and get snowed-in again this winter while I'm up visiting family(the bridge crossing into owensboro, KY shut down and the part of 66 leading towards new bridge was also shut down). I could go north and west....not east or south though, lol. Been forever since I was up near you though, like 2003 I was in Macy and Kokomo.

 

[Z Fury]

Not sure about this being a winter project - I was hoping to drive it this winter. I'll have to treat the critical areas first, limp it through winter (only the days the Z28 can't handle), and treat the rest in the spring. I think the tires and suspension will last, the weather seals and locks can wait, and the exhaust will survive one more winter. I seriously need the fluids changed and to get the heater core done. The 4-wheel drive actuator is iffy - I'm a pretty good driver (read: not an idiot) in the bad conditions, so if I don't get to that part it won't be the end of the world. Same with the SES light on the IAC.

Newest issue is the brakes though. The pads/rotors/drums/shoes are all about 14K old, but after sitting for 13 months, I have no pedal. I push on the brake pedal and the pedal just falls effortlessly. The parking "brake light" on the dash is also on now. I hope all I need to do is bleed the system...