Plug wire woes

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Looks like it's arcing around the plug boot or the porcelain of the plug. Can't too much see it. The plugs are acdelco tr43ts copper plugs.... I wouldn't think they would be a problem with only 1,000 or so miles on them @Schurkey
 

Schurkey

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When I got my '97 K2500, I had a dead cylinder, and no torque converter clutch operation.

Discovered that #8 spark plug had a cracked porcelain. Spark jumping from boot, down the porcelain, to the plug shell and thus to ground.

Replacing the plug got me an end to the misfire, which also caused the torque converter to start working properly--the computer disables the converter clutch when it detects misfire.

One spark plug fixed the engine and the transmission.

I'd take a close look at those plugs, and the plug gaps. I bet the plugs are either cracked, or carbon-tracked making them more conductive than is good for them. May not be the plug wires at all.
 

grey wolf

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Any parts with brass contacts are probably going to be decent quality. In my experience, the good stuff always seems to use brass. I guess as long as it installs nicely, or the plug wires kind of "click" into place on the contacts, that's a good sign.
 

Schurkey

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Any parts with brass contacts are probably going to be decent quality. In my experience, the good stuff always seems to use brass. I guess as long as it installs nicely, or the plug wires kind of "click" into place on the contacts, that's a good sign.
Brass is no miracle metal. Brass contacts in a distributor cap corrode just like aluminum contacts; it just takes a little longer.

The electrical conductivity of clean aluminum is way better than clean brass. I don't know about corroded aluminum vs. corroded brass.

TBI cap from '88 K1500:
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HotWheelsBurban

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Brass is no miracle metal. Brass contacts in a distributor cap corrode just like aluminum contacts; it just takes a little longer.

The electrical conductivity of clean aluminum is way better than clean brass. I don't know about corroded aluminum vs. corroded brass.

TBI cap from '88 K1500:
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Isn't the corrosion factor, from humidity getting in the Vortec distributors, why there's a vented cap made? The one I have on the Burb ( that gets driven daily in Houston traffic,rain or shine), been on it since mid April last year, seems to have alleviated that problem. YMMV....
 

Frank Enstein

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I use the Taylor or Summit wires on my cars. They have a 100% silicone outer insulation so be careful how you route them so they don't get cut.
The wife's Astro put over 170,000 miles on a set of Summit wires before one of them quit.

I like to cut my own and I recommend red wires to remind you to keep your mitts off 'em!

These crimpers have the "W" crimp needed for plug wires;

I take the wires out of the box, lay them out on aluminum foil, and drown them with silicone lubricant spray until they quit soaking it up. I feel this fills in any imperfections in the wire keeping unwanted dirt, grease, moisture, & etc. from getting in.
That is also good for cleaning them.

As for spark plugs AC Delco hasn't made a spark plug in over 30 years. All the ACD plugs are NGK last I checked.
I recommend the GP Platinum NGK plugs. Good price and last longer than the wires do!

I have no problems with Standard Motor Products or Summit Brass terminal distributor caps and rotors.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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I like to cut my own and I recommend red wires to remind you to keep your mitts off 'em!

These crimpers have the "W" crimp needed for plug wires;

I used blue wires to go with other accessories on my engine. Here's what I bought then, I gave them to my son since he'll use them more than I will ;)


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Cadillac Bob

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Hey guys. I have a set of carquest plug wires on my 1995 chevrolet c2500 with the 5.7tbi and nv4500.
I was wondering why I had a steady stumble and last night I opened my hood and decided to check for a lightning show.
What I saw was 3 cylinders on the odd bank and 2 cylinders on the even bank arcing close to the plugs.
I inspected and found no burnt spots or cuts on the wires. The boots are all seated on the plugs with a CLICK and I even tried a little dielectric grease on the boots just to be sure.
Never had this problem before.

I'm looking at a set of acdelco and a set on ngk wires now (delco part# 9718D and ngk part# 51106).
I am also open to other brands and I always route my wires as the factory did (around and behind the heads)
Thank you
So depending on how you or whomever tan your wires they may be too close in spots to motor and exhaust or anything else that creates high enough heat . Just had that problem also maybe buy put on spark plug sleeves to help lessen heat about $20 on eBay but double over how your laying them “route” so as you know for sure they not touching/too close to heat sources
 

Cadillac Bob

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Good wires do make a difference too you’ll see how thinner they are and how that alone you can see will be obvious to why they won’t last as long as stocks
 
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