Pitman arm replacement...8 hours and I can't get it off

[ukiltmybrutha]

It looks like either this is a 30 minute job for most or a horror story.

I beat the heck out of the end with the smaller nut for about 4 hours, lubricated it, torched it etc. It will only come out so far.

So I gave up and started on the larger end (34 mm nut). I got the biggest puller I could find at Autozone and it was too small. I ended up having to cut one end of the puller off to get it to fit but cut it too much so it eventually slips off.

In looking at a youtube video for this, it looks like the smaller end will get lose, but you need to get the larger side off first.

I am frustrated with this. It looks like I need a top dollar puller and a top dollar impact gun to move this thing. Autozone advises that they don't have a pitman puller to rent either. Even with a 3/4 drive ratchet things hardly turn.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

 

[zraffz]

I changed a pitman arm on the 98 k2500 plow truck (has a plow frame welded in down there to make things harder) in about an hour... talk about miserable but nothing required a puller.

My K1500 on the other hand won't come off. All the beating and prying in the world and it's still stuck. Idler and pitman are beat though so I can replace the entire steering link and the idler/pitman while doing the lift.

Best of luck to you.

 

[ukiltmybrutha]

I changed a pitman arm on the 98 k2500 plow truck (has a plow frame welded in down there to make things harder) in about an hour... talk about miserable but nothing required a puller.

My K1500 on the other hand won't come off. All the beating and prying in the world and it's still stuck. Idler and pitman are beat though so I can replace the entire steering link and the idler/pitman while doing the lift.

Best of luck to you.

Lol, so I am not alone and thanks for responding so quick. Replacing the entire steering link....what exact parts would I need to get everything as one piece (if available)? I am guessing I would need an alignment afterwards?

Thanks!

 

[ukiltmybrutha]

Well I just went outside and answered my own question I think. I am not a steering expert, in fact my neighbor who is a state inspector helped me identify these 2 parts as being bad. Looks like all there is to the setup is outer tie rod ends and a big bar in the middle. I guess I could get that big bar in the middle and then the inner/outer tie rod ends if need be?

I hate spending money but in this case, I wouldn't mind spending money to make life easier here. What is the big bar in the middle called? A steering link/linkeage or what?

Still, wont I stil have the same problem getting the pittman arm off on the "big" side?

Thanks

 

[ukiltmybrutha]

Looks like it is called a center link? Is that right? Questions above still stand.

 

[zraffz]

The big bar in the middle I call a steering link/linkage but I do believe some call it a center link/linkage.

My lift kit comes with a modified steering link so I lucked out since I needed new tie rods (inner, outer and sleeves), pitman and idler arm. My steering link is still good but I can't separate the pitman arm from it. The other end of the pitman arm came off for me. I'm sure their is a way to do it with a pickle fork of some sort but I don't need to worry about it since I'm changing everything steering related.

I suggest borrowing/buying a pickle fork and seeing if that works. At the very least you have to get the other end of the pitman arm off even if you can't get the end to the steering link off. They are pressed in, their is no reason it shouldn't come out with force unless you mushroomed the end of the bolt.

Just a quick lesson on the steering setup. You have a steering box, pitman arm, outer tie rod (connects to the inner tie rod using a tie rod sleeve; you have 2 of all of these), and an idler arm. Between all that you have a steering stabilizer. Without looking at one of my trucks that's about as detailed as I can get off the top of my head.


And yes, you would need an alignment after changing or even taking apart your tie rods/sleeves. I am not sure about when you replace anything else. I've never had a properly aligned vehicle before taking anything steering related apart.

 

[ukiltmybrutha]

The big bar in the middle I call a steering link/linkage but I do believe some call it a center link/linkage.

My lift kit comes with a modified steering link so I lucked out since I needed new tie rods (inner, outer and sleeves), pitman and idler arm. My steering link is still good but I can't separate the pitman arm from it. The other end of the pitman arm came off for me. I'm sure their is a way to do it with a pickle fork of some sort but I don't need to worry about it since I'm changing everything steering related.

I suggest borrowing/buying a pickle fork and seeing if that works. At the very least you have to get the other end of the pitman arm off even if you can't get the end to the steering link off. They are pressed in, their is no reason it shouldn't come out with force unless you mushroomed the end of the bolt.

Just a quick lesson on the steering setup. You have a steering box, pitman arm, outer tie rod (connects to the inner tie rod using a tie rod sleeve; you have 2 of all of these), and an idler arm. Between all that you have a steering stabilizer. Without looking at one of my trucks that's about as detailed as I can get off the top of my head.


And yes, you would need an alignment after changing or even taking apart your tie rods/sleeves. I am not sure about when you replace anything else. I've never had a properly aligned vehicle before taking anything steering related apart.

Good cram session, thanks. I did use a pickle fork (I see I forgot to mention that). After hitting the pitman joint hundreds of times switching between heat, pb blaster etc etc it is actually bent lol.

So which end do I have to get off if all else fails and I end up getting a steering/center link/linkeage?

My truck is one of my beater vehicles (simply to get to the local dump which is a mile away or lowes from time to time). I'd really prefer not replacing anything besides the pitman/idler if I can get away with it since I don't want to pay for an alignment. Of course the tie rods could be bad too when all is said and done.

Thanks for your time again.

 

[zraffz]

I'd take apart the outer tie rods from the knuckles and check them out. If they freely move around (excessively) or get bound up in some spots they are shot.

If you absolutely can't get the pitman arm off the steering link end you still need to get it off the other end by the steering box. I want to say it's a cotter pin and a 21MM wrench off the top of my head. Then you might have an easier time separating the other end once the steering link is out from under the truck. If you still can't separate it, you need a steering link, pitman arm, I'd suggest an idler arm as well. I'd honestly change it all if I was taking it apart so you don't have to worry about it in the future.
If you can't find a steering link for your truck at a local junkyard I will give you mine if you pay for shipping (I'll get it separate from the pitman arm once it's out from under the truck).


Why are you changing it anyway? If it's squeaking around corners (like running over wet paint) it is rather steering or ball joint related. Jack it up, grab the tire and wiggle left and right. If it moves that way it's steering related. Now wiggle it up and down, if it moves at all it's your ball joints. The ball joints in my truck are original (if the upper ball joints are "riveted/pressed" in they are original, if they are bolted than they are aftermarket) with 120,000 miles (at least 30,000 miles on larger tires & 35" mud tires) and still perfectly fine but I am replacing them while it's all apart. Usually just replacing the idler arm (which is easier) will do the trick even if the pitman arm is on its way out. I can not insure premature wear of the idler arm with a bad pitman arm but their has been a few times I've done just the idler arm when both were bad and it fixed my problems. I don't know how to diagnose bad tie rods other than taking them off the knuckle and feeling the movement in them.
Any excessive bouncing (especially with weight in the bed) is rather the shocks, steering stabilizer, or pitman/idler arm/s; or a combination of all of that.

And don't quote me on the alignment because I am not 100% certain. Like I said I've never had a vehicle that drove strait before replacing any steering parts.

I just noticed it is a C1500, not a K1500. I've never owned or worked on a 2WD truck, I don't know if some parts are different.

 

[ukiltmybrutha]

I'd take apart the outer tie rods from the knuckles and check them out. If they freely move around (excessively) or get bound up in some spots they are shot.

If you absolutely can't get the pitman arm off the steering link end you still need to get it off the other end by the steering box. I want to say it's a cotter pin and a 21MM wrench off the top of my head. Then you might have an easier time separating the other end once the steering link is out from under the truck. If you still can't separate it, you need a steering link, pitman arm, I'd suggest an idler arm as well. I'd honestly change it all if I was taking it apart so you don't have to worry about it in the future.
If you can't find a steering link for your truck at a local junkyard I will give you mine if you pay for shipping (I'll get it separate from the pitman arm once it's out from under the truck).


Why are you changing it anyway? If it's squeaking around corners (like running over wet paint) it is rather steering or ball joint related. Jack it up, grab the tire and wiggle left and right. If it moves that way it's steering related. Now wiggle it up and down, if it moves at all it's your ball joints. The ball joints in my truck are original (if the upper ball joints are "riveted/pressed" in they are original, if they are bolted than they are aftermarket) with 120,000 miles (at least 30,000 miles on larger tires & 35" mud tires) and still perfectly fine but I am replacing them while it's all apart. Usually just replacing the idler arm (which is easier) will do the trick even if the pitman arm is on its way out. I can not insure premature wear of the idler arm with a bad pitman arm but their has been a few times I've done just the idler arm when both were bad and it fixed my problems. I don't know how to diagnose bad tie rods other than taking them off the knuckle and feeling the movement in them.
Any excessive bouncing (especially with weight in the bed) is rather the shocks, steering stabilizer, or pitman/idler arm/s; or a combination of all of that.

And don't quote me on the alignment because I am not 100% certain. Like I said I've never had a vehicle that drove strait before replacing any steering parts.

I just noticed it is a C1500, not a K1500. I've never owned or worked on a 2WD truck, I don't know if some parts are different.

Basically I am changing it out because I live off a windy rural rd which is one lane in each direction road. If you try to turn the wheel in one direction it doesn't respond until you turn the wheel about an inch or so more to make it happen. Really doggone dangerous considering that I have never driven a truck in my life. I am brazen but not as brazen as some of the people around here. I dumped my trash with it once and refuse to do it again until this is fixed.

I did do the tire test and up and down it was fine. When I did the side to side test both wheels turned left and right together (not like a typical tie rod end test when only one wheel will show play). Safety inspector neighbor says he doubts the tie rod ends are bad but that the pitman and idler are badly shot. We figured we would get that out of the way and then check the tie rod ends (which don't seem to show much play).

I only got this vehicle a few months ago from another neighbor. He is known to not care about steering play so and I never test drove it until after I got it....big mistake but oh well.

I figured the same on the need to get it off of the steering box but wasn't sure. Thanks for the offer on the steering link!!

On the steering box end, it is actually a 34mm nut. I got that off with the breaker bar. On the steering link it is a 22mm nut. I got that one off as well. It is the stud parts that won't budge on either side.

I also have the idler along with the pitman ready to go on. None of my vehicles have seen a mechanic in years, I do EVERYTHING myself. However, I am getting close to it here.

 

[zraffz]

Best of luck man. I hate when things are pressed in place... worst was the interior parts of the water pump on my car. Talk about a pain in the ass to remove.