Pedal goes to floor when running, cant for the life of me figure out why! please help

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Teal97k1500

Newbie
Joined
May 13, 2014
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
alrite well to start its a 1997 Chevy K1500 Z71, 350 vortec, 4l80 trans swap, 4x4, 6' RCX lift on 35s.

well i bought it with a bad wheel cylinder thus my pedal going to the floor, he had been driving it like that for some time, i had to drive it to work for a week before fixing it.

SO today, iv replaced both wheel cylinder, shoes hardware, in back, up front i checked the calipers, all is well they look new within the past year, i did brake pads (i bought ceramic) and replaced the rotors..

we bled the back brakes twice, few times each wheel, and the front brakes, starting with the RR first ending with the LF,

now, when i bought it soft pedal engine running or not due to blown wheel cylinder and empty reservior, NOW i have a very firm and strong pedal that does NOT drop when holding it down with the engine off, it is about 2/3 the way up and hard, if u hold the brakes and start it the pedal goes almost to the floor


i did get fluid at all 4 brakes, the truck does stop just not well, no pulling or anything


on gravel, the back breaks lock up as they should not to easily, the front breaks dont lock up that easy, on the highway both sides DO get HOT and you can smell them but the truck doesnt stop quickly due to very soft pedal...


now iv tried googling this and learned alot but have NOT found a definitive answere

iv gotten

bad mastery cyl (im doubting this because it hold pressure when engine off and all 4 wheels have braking action)
iv seen maybe i dont have the back breaks adjusted right (in the AM i will pull the drums have them cut and adjust the brakes up tightly)
iv seen crappy rubber brake hoses are expanding (im puttin new ones on in the am and getting a new master cyl incase i have to replace it)

and LASTLY iv seen air in the abs module thing, which i know NOTHING about im old school never messed with trucks or cars that had abs till this truck.....

iv seen i need a scan tool to activate the motor and cycle the valves or have the abs kick in on gravel...

well after i repaired the brakes i also put the fuse in the abs spot which was removed due to the blown wheel cylinder. at first the abs would come on very easy especially when turning or backing up, then on gravel, now i can hit the brakes on gravel and the abs didnt come on, i tried this time in a parking lot that has basically a thin layer of debris and gravel all over it and no abs came on

also no brake or abs lights on the dash



IM AT A LOSS i need this to get to work, looking for ANY help towards what this could possibly be, thanks so much in advance all here at GMT400



** in the am im going to cut the drums and adjust, and bleed the holly hell out of it to see if that works but for some reason im unsure the ABS module thing where they say (that has to be cycled) or some crap is throwing me for a major loop

i apologize for such a long post i just wanted to get everything out there so we dont have one of those monotonous threads where it goes on on and asking questions about the truck and what i already did to fix the issue, :)
 

phule

Back in a 400 again
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
2,358
Reaction score
145
Location
Southern nh
If you have access to a pressure bleeder it will help bleed the abs module. The abs modules can trap a lot of air.

Adam
 

Teal97k1500

Newbie
Joined
May 13, 2014
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
i dont and im running out of money, iv already spent over $300 this weekend in brake parts and a few things the truck needed


well we have a somewhat decent pedal now


today i adjusted the back brakes up tight, parking break still is kinda y, altho it was before all of this....


i also noticed a little wetness under the master cylinder on the booster, so i bought a reman one from Advance Auto, bench bled and installed it


after bleeding the holly hell outa the truck (front brakes bleed easily and no more air after 3-4 times) the back is a diff story we bled over and over and over and over and OVER for hours using almost a gallon of brake fluid...

AND STILL getting little spurts of air coming out every time.... there are absolutly no leaks what so ever.....


but then again idk if this is normal? the back brake lines and old MC were ran dry and driven like that for who knows how long before i got it, could have been several weeks or months



but now i have a much better pedal, when running it firms up at 1/4 way, gets stiff around 1/2 and 3/4 the way down its very hard... still doesnt seem right, it stops decently at best... i know its a lifted truck on 35s but i would think the pedal would be more firm and it would stop better

am i missing something? or do i need to just KEEP BLEEDING!?!?

thanks again everyone i KNOW this has probably been asked a million times, iv searched online for HOURS just have yet to find out something that would be a definitive answere for me
 

phule

Back in a 400 again
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
2,358
Reaction score
145
Location
Southern nh
The gm abs system can take a day and a half to bleed. Glad to hear its improving

Adam
 

inthechateau

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
81
Reaction score
2
Location
Maryland
The ABS has a bleeder on it also. If the system was run dry like you said the module has air in it. With out Tec II and valve clamps you will never get all the air out of it. With out those tools keep cycling the ABS on loose surface and eventually the valves will open up and push air out to the rest of the system. You'll just have to keep bleeding it. If the ABS light stays on you need tech II to reset it. Battery trick does not do it on that system.
 
Top