Painting new LMC truck dash 88-98 advice?

[Stockedup94]

Got my new dash and can’t wait to get started. Has anyone painted a NEW dash? I know changing colors requires primer and adhesive BUT does this new dash require same “prep” adhesive? Also, do you guys recommend a clear coat at the end? Thanks for help fellas.

 

[Hipster]

It all depends on what paint system you are using. Sem, Duplicolor, PPG, Dupont, spay can or real paint etc. They all have their own recommended procedures and listed corresponding supporting products you use in conjunction with them which can be found on the TDS(technical data sheets) most of which can be found online. Most paint/dye systems I have use used have called for a thorough washing, followed by a thorough degreasing or wide down, maybe multiple time to remove mold release agents, followed by some kind of adhesion promoter.......then the vinyl dye. Don't skip steps for best results.

 

[Hipster]

Got my new dash and can’t wait to get started. Has anyone painted a NEW dash? I know changing colors requires primer and adhesive BUT does this new dash require same “prep” adhesive? Also, do you guys recommend a clear coat at the end? Thanks for help fellas.

You get done, I'd like to know how it went. Your thoughts on fit, finish, and how the install went. I'm sure many others would like to know as well.

 

[Stockedup94]

It all depends on what paint system you are using. Sem, Duplicolor, PPG, Dupont, spay can or real paint etc. They all have their own recommended procedures and listed corresponding supporting products you use in conjunction with them which can be found on the TDS(technical data sheets) most of which can be found online. Most paint/dye systems I have use used have called for a thorough washing, followed by a thorough degreasing or wide down, maybe multiple time to remove mold release agents, followed by some kind of adhesion promoter.......then the vinyl dye. Don't skip steps for best results.

Good stuff. I am using the LMC color match / paint prep adhesive but I’ve seen some lads clearing it after??? Should I use some denatured alcohol for degrease before? It’s literally brand new in a box so hasn’t touched much

 

[Stockedup94]

You get done, I'd like to know how it went. Your thoughts on fit, finish, and how the install went. I'm sure many others would like to know as well.

Will do!

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I am using the LMC color match / paint prep adhesive but I’ve seen some lads clearing it after???

I used mostly SEM stuff for a repaint, I used Dupli-color wax & grease remover but, you can use something mild like liquid joy too. Then VINYL Prep, before paint/dye. Finally I put a "Satin Gloss Clear" over the color.

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Here's an example, driver's door before

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After - you gotta keep it clean to get it to adhere/penetrate.

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I'm a rookie at this, I just followed @sewlow 's thread where he detailed "how to" - I can't find it though. HTH

 

[Hipster]

Good stuff. I am using the LMC color match / paint prep adhesive but I’ve seen some lads clearing it after??? Should I use some denatured alcohol for degrease before? It’s literally brand new in a box so hasn’t touched much

The problem is it comes out of a mold and more than likely stuck in a box. It will have some release agent on it. Yes, many of the dewax/degreasing products used are not much more than alcohol based(isopropyl), but there is a proper way to do this, 2 rag/cloths, one wet, one dry. Wet one rag with degreaser, wipe, and then dry with dry rag untill dry. You're basically floating contaminates than drying it with with the dry rags. Don't let the degreaser dry on the surface.

In my book it's an important step, and I'll usually wipe down plastic parts more than once

 

[heskahoka]

I'm a rookie at this, I just followed @sewlow 's thread where he detailed "how to" - I can't find it though. HTH

Wow. That outcome looks f*****g stunning! Better than new.
Very good job.

 

[Onizukachan]

Agreed. I’ll wash a part in the sink (or shower if too big) with liquid dishwashing soap, if totally new I use a scotch right scuff pad on the 800 grit range to knock the shine off on it, and scrub down with 91% isopropyl alcohol.

depending on how it looks after I’ll repeat the entire process a second time.

used interior parts already have paint on them and the iso makes the existing interior paint just a tad tacky so your dust coat can bond, so I’ll wipe them again with iso just before I spray the initial tack coat.

once dry I coat them with a ceramic infused cleaner/ protectant. Twice. DG hydro shield for example works for me and has the right one step up from matte paint gloss To look totally natural.

This has always worked for me, both on front lips, diffusers etc that get sun all the time amd dirt bugs rain rocks etc pounded at them at 80+, with no flaking, and of course on this near garbage denali console I rescued and refinished last weekend.

I don’t use clears and I don’t use primers, and I don’t use adhesion promoters. Correct prep is everything plus quality paint (beyr matte and fusion matte have worked well. SEM was very forgiving but dumps paint on initial depress so start off the piece not on it. )

dont forget even multi directional application. Paint left to right, right to left, 45 from left 45 from right so you don’t get tiger striping.


oh and a tip for leather… it has to be sanded to get the plasticizer coating off or mostly off and smoothed if you really want SEM to truly bond with the underlying leather.