Paint correction help!!

[jrfinchen1]

I have a black 1992 k1500 that has the original paint no clearcoat peeling and minimal chips or scratches that go through to the paint. I've been told by others and by professionals about buffing the paint on these trucks with the single-based coat that it is hard to do. Is this true? I have lots of swirls and micro scratches on the surface nothing really major. Would buffing it myself be easy or should I take it to a shop and have it done? I'm comfortable doing myself I just want to be more comfortable with the results before I make an attempt myself.

 

[SAATR]

Here's what you need, if you want to do actual paint correction:

Harbor Freight Bauer Short Throw Random Orbit Polisher (also known as a DA polisher) - $80

Bottle of Meguiars 110 cutting compound - $40

And these cutting/polishing pads from Lake Country, sourced from Amazon:

You must be registered for see images attach

A thorough wash plus a twice over with a clay bar will get you a starting point. You will also need painters tape to mask off the door handles, all window surrounds and gaskets, and the bump strips and trim to keep it from turning white from the compound.

This, plus plenty of good, clean microfiber cloths and a good wax to finish. You'll also want some 90/10 distilled water and isopropyl alcohol to degrease prior to compounding.

The bottom line is that it costs a decent sum of money to get to the point of attempting this properly. This list is far, FAR from exhaustive and is a one step affair. You can use multiple compounds, if you want a better finish. Are there cheaper ways than what I have outlined? Yes. Better ways? Probably. Would you be money ahead to let a professional do it? Probably. Your call.

 

[BOSCO76]

Definitely watch some how to's on YouTube. If you've never done paint correction before, a black vehicle is a tough one to start on. Just don't stay on any of the corners or hard edges very long, you will burn. That being said, don't be too afraid to dive in. You'll learn pretty quickly how long to work each panel. I'd start with a medium to fine cut paste, also from the China Warehouse. Be patient, make sure you have a full day or 2.

 

[Donald Mitchell]

Not being rude, but there were some of the shiniest paint jobs you ever saw long before anyone new anything about a clay bar. I used a Souix 1500rpm buffer that was very heavy, and an assortment of 3M polishes. And alot of it was Lacquer. Your single stage truck should work out fine, and if it is a good level paint job I would do it by hand.

 

[Hipster]

Ditto.

Paint correction is a term used typically by someone trying to sell you a $400 detail job. Body shop guys cut and buff stuff non-stop.

I too have been using 3M compounds, polishes, and glazes in body shops pretty much exclusively for 30+ years with an old heavy Milwaukee full size buffer. No need for 8 oz. bottles of crap that cost $30 a piece to get satisfactory results.

I can wet sand something with a piece of 3000 grit, buff it back up with 3m Trizact faster, and it looks better than the half-arsed results you get from a clay bar.

For the cost of getting set-up and a bit of a learning curve you might be able to find someone at a bodyshop to do it.

edit.. It's looks like it's black? You can touch/fill up scratches and chips with a paint dauber, a little wetsand and buff, and not hardly notice them. Black is one of the most forgiving colors as far as color match to do that with.

 

[TechNova]

not sure your truck would be single stage like you posted, It is likely base coat/clear coat. These trucks peeled when exposed to extended sunlight because the factory did not put enough clear on them to block the UV. Any sanding or buffing is going to reduce the thickness of the clear. The back half of my son's truck is original paint, I am planning to only use any products by hand. I buff at work alot and teach buffing classes, no sandpaper or wheel for his OEM paint.