Oil pressure gauge always pegged.

[DeCaff2007]

STOP!

With the timing connector plugged-in, I'd expect there'd be 12--15 degrees of advance at idle, if the initial timing with the connector UN-PLUGGED is at GM spec of TDC (zero).

If you have only 5 degrees of timing advance at idle, when the connector is plugged-in, you're WAY short on advance. This is almost certainly why the headers glow.

With 5 degrees of extra advance (5 advanced from zero with the connector unplugged) you'd likely have close to 20 degrees of advance at idle with the connector plugged-in. This will not hurt anything during cam break-in; you might want to re-set the ignition timing to spec once the engine is running nicely and the cam is happy.

Realistically, adding 5 degrees of advance probably wouldn't hurt anything long-term. I ran more than that for awhile on my '88 K1500 5.7L; but backed it down later.

NOT at idle. Engine not running. I mean 5° advance by turning the distributor CCW and eyeballing how things line up. Remember those pics you showed me? Ok well I lined up the "spikes" and then turned the dist just a HAIR. No idea where the timing marks line up. Be nice if I had a way to hold 2500 RPM while not in the driver seat.

Are you saying set it back to zero, or keep it where it's at and UNPLUG the timing connector?

Is this a one-wire (not electrically heated) sensor, or a three-wire (electrically heated) sensor?

One wire. I don't think it's too far down stream. Aside from the added length of the headers, it's just about in the same place the original was.

If what you've said in the previous post is right, you need to advance the timing before firing the engine.

My bad, I should have mentioned that that's NOT at idle.

No. I'd expect the emissions equipment to be very similar from '89 to '94. Perhaps not identical, but similar.

Well, IIRC, the '88/89 crap had a threaded bung in the passenger exhaust manifold, leading to a giant check valve. Then, that led to all the rigmarole on the intake manifold. I believe there was a smog pump in the works, too.

The '94 simply has a MAP sensor, an EGR valve, and there's a canister purge solenoid in there somewhere.

 

[Schurkey]

NOT at idle. Engine not running.

Don't worry about it then.

Mentioning the "set timing" connector was unplugged gives the impression that the engine was run, and a timing light used. That wasn't the case.

Are you saying set it back to zero, or keep it where it's at and UNPLUG the timing connector?

Make absolutely sure that the "set timing" connector is plugged-in when breaking-in the cam; and for normal running thereafter.

One wire. I don't think it's too far down stream. Aside from the added length of the headers, it's just about in the same place the original was.

GM has done weird stuff. The time I looked-up O2 sensor position for a '94, the position and sensor type was different for a manual trans vs. an auto trans. I forget which was which, but one got a 1-wire sensor in the driver's side manifold, and the other got a 3-wire heated sensor in the crossover pipe.

But someone else commented that their truck had a one-wire in the crossover pipe (which didn't make any sense to me, but I'm not in a position to argue.)

If your donor engine is a '94, you might want to check the '94 Emissions/Driveability manual for confirmation. I'd have expected a one-wire in the left manifold at least on the earlier model year 5.7L, but I've been wrong before.

the '88/89 crap had a threaded bung in the passenger exhaust manifold, leading to a giant check valve. Then, that led to all the rigmarole on the intake manifold. I believe there was a smog pump in the works, too.

Some geographical/political areas got engines with AIR pumps, and some (most) did not. My '88 K1500 5.7L has an AIR pump, my buddy's '89 K1500 5.7L did not. Would not make a bit of difference in terms of glowing exhaust manifolds unless the diverter solenoid/diverter valve malfunctioned. But if you don't have an AIR pump, there is no diverter, therefore no problem.

 

[Hipster]

So wtf! Decaffe success or no?? after alll the collective h help we tired to give yo
sorryvou';;, have to forgove me the bourbon P consumed

 

[termite]

So wtf! Decaffe success or no??

You must be registered for see images attach

I'm hoping success and not Homer's approach.

 

[Hipster]

no news is good news? Was hoping he would come back ecstatic.

 

[Hipster]

You must be registered for see images attach

I'm hoping success and not Homer's approach.

damn even my typing was slurred lol. Damn barrel proof 116 Bourbon.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Busy effing schedule as of late. I'll report back when I have something.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Well.... if anyone has even see the kids show "Pinwheel", and that idiot named "Plus" that always misses the rocketship..... That's exactly how I feel right now.

I never get more then two minutes into break in without something happening that I NEED to shut down.

KIA: One serpentine belt and one power steering pump. BOTH brand new

But, in those couple minutes with the engine screaming at 2500 rpm, I don't recall seeing the headers glow this time, nor any backfiring from the TBI. Maybe I got valve adjustment right this time.

Before even starting the engine, I hooked up my timing light. WITH the timing connector plugged in, and the dist. just slightly CCW, the timing light says the timing is at 27° BTDC @ 2500RPM. It seemed to like that, until the serpentine belt snapped.

On the PS pump, I could hear the bearings sizzling jut before the belt went. There's lots of play in the PS pulley shaft, and spinning it by hand sounds like chalk on a blackboard.

Now, I have three options. Return the PS pump to Rock Auto and wait a week for the replacement (meaning I get nothing done today, but the part is essentially free). Or, I could venture to the bone yard. It's a faster, cheaper fix, but it's POURING down rain today. Do I really want the aggravation? Lastly, I could see if Advance has one in stock. This will be the fastest, least aggravating option, but do I even want to know the cost?

I do have another question. Turn the key, engine starts, bring it up to 2500 rpm.... then in less than a minute, WITHOUT touching the throttle or anything else, the RPM settles to about 1700 to 1900. It does this every time and I have to give it more throttle to compensate. Is this normal?

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

Did you put fluid in the PS reservoir? If not, I could see that killing the pump and increasing the load on the engine.

 

[DeCaff2007]

Did you put fluid in the PS reservoir? If not, I could see that killing the pump and increasing the load on the engine.

I absolutely did. Topped it off when everything was installed brand new (months ago, lol). It must have had a slow leak or something. When I took the failed pump off, the reservoir was bone dry?!?

Anyway, I got the new pump today from Advance Auto. It wasn't as bad of a price tag as I thought it would be, as I got a remanned one, w/out a reservoir. It took longer to drive across town and get the pump than it did to install it.

Alright, I'm going for round 17 of break in here, very shorty.