Oil Choice

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thegawd

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Your right @98chevy2500SS that's the guy! this is the first video I ever seen of him. someone was wondering if the oil on their shelf would go bad in 6 months and was afraid to use it.

well once upon a time I had a 94 burb and it leak oil like crazy. one day it was down quite a bit and I didnt have any.

well my FIL shows up with a crate of antique imperial oil quarts in cans. no spec listed. I poured some in a jar and then topped up my oil with it!

anyways this is a quakerstate but it is from the same era! LMAO

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AuroraGirl

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Your right @98chevy2500SS that's the guy! this is the first video I ever seen of him. someone was wondering if the oil on their shelf would go bad in 6 months and was afraid to use it.

well once upon a time I had a 94 burb and it leak oil like crazy. one day if was down quite a bit and I didnt have any.

well my FIL shows up with a crate of antique imperial oil quarts in cans. no spec listed. I poured some in a jar and then topped up my oil with it!

anyways this is a quakerstate but it is from the same era! LMAO

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i have some cenex 5w30 in a can I think
 

AuroraGirl

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Your right @98chevy2500SS that's the guy! this is the first video I ever seen of him. someone was wondering if the oil on their shelf would go bad in 6 months and was afraid to use it.

well once upon a time I had a 94 burb and it leak oil like crazy. one day if was down quite a bit and I didnt have any.

well my FIL shows up with a crate of antique imperial oil quarts in cans. no spec listed. I poured some in a jar and then topped up my oil with it!

anyways this is a quakerstate but it is from the same era! LMAO

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II wouldnt have done that a 1994 burban would probably be easily damaging to your emissions sysstems if you had more than just a top off situation.. especially if you had any wear built up kinda thing...
But I would use sealed oil on a shelf if it was not in the sun didnt get temperature extremes, was the right spec(almost never a concern to me since i dont drive things that needed anything newer than... SG.. SM.. i cant remmber.


Also everyone knows the best motor oil is 4oz gm supercharger oils but enough for your oil change. dont ask what would happen because it wouldnt be good and it would smell interesting if you ever forgot it for a while. but you would need a couple more than many to do that.


Best 5w30 out there
 

thegawd

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Aurora, you should watch that video I posted. that 70 year old is still absolutely good! just not the best choice for a modern engine because it has no detergents.

the imperial oil can that I used was from a sealed can and was not green like that antique quakerstate stuff was. it was golden.

I bet my FIL has the rest of the crate and possibly more.
 

454cid

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I was using Rotella T4 10w30 in the truck, but I think the last couple of times I used Meijer oil, which is a private label Warren Oil product.... I've used both the dinosaur oil, and synthetc. I started putting the synthetic in my Saturn to try to loosen up the crap in the rings, but I don't think it did much. Both vehicles use oil, so I don't feel like spending too much on it. The truck mainly leaks it, and the Saturn burns it....poor GM/Saturn ring design that plagues most of the Saturn 1.9L engines.

I did purchase some Meijer 10w30 diesel oil for the truck, but I haven't changed it yet, because I'm waiting to do it after I do my valve cover gaskets.... and now the weather isn't really driveway working weather. I don't think it's gas engine rated, but Rotella T4 isn't anymore either. I'm sure it will be fine in an old tech big block.

I've been watching motor oil prices and it's been slowly creeping up over the last couple of years much like everything else.

I tend to top off my oil using vehicles with either Meijer or FVP oil..... Menards has the FVP dirt cheap in quarts.

For filters I've got maybe like 8 of them sitting on my shelf, just for the truck. A few are the Quaker State Purolator made filters that Menard's no longer carries, and the rest are various brands that I've wanted to try. Bosch, Denso (Made in China, but built heavy), Champ Labs (OEM for ACDelco), and I think Hastings.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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"Acid" in the oil would change the Total Base Number (TBN). Motor oil has additives that make the oil basic (opposite of acidic). As the acid affects the oil, it becomes "less basic". It takes a fair amount of acid to turn the oil "neutral", never mind becoming acidic.

Anyway, that's all a part of the oil analysis; and my oil tests good except when the thermostat fails--as in the Trailblazer, and the '92 Lumina; even at surprisingly high mileage and/or time of use. Some of my vehicles go a year and a half--two years between changes. (Some more than that because I've quit driving them, or they're seasonal vehicles.) I bought my '97 K2500 two (or is it three) years ago this week; and I haven't changed oil on it yet because I doubt I've got more than about 500 miles on it; and it was changed just before I bought the truck.

3000 mile oil changes were maybe a good idea when cars still had carburetors, (rich at idle, rich when cold--fuel contamination in the oil) no overdrive transmissions, (higher RPM vs. speed.) and thick 5/64 rings that didn't seal all that well (extra blow-by.) And, of course, the oil itself has improved.

I agree with the you, but my last 2 vehicles the manual and/or the oil life monitor require changes at 12 months. I plan on changing when required even though I'm unlikely to actually need it per an analysis. In the end, oil is cheaper than engines.
 

b454rat

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IMO, it doesnt matter what oil you use, as long as you change it. I had a 78 Malibu that I put a junkyard 400 in to. The motor was nasty. I needed vise grips to get the lifters out. Looked like the oil never got changed. I put a top end on it, new oil pump, cam/lifters/chain and ran it. I was stationed in Canada, and came home (NY/PA border) every time I had days off. I put 60k on that motor IIRC, and when I tore it down, it looked almost brand new. No sludge anywhere. I used regular 'ol castrol. Changed the oil/filter roughly every 3k.
 
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