No Fuel or Spark

[94ChevyZ71]

I have 94 K1500 with a 5.7L TBI that isn't getting any spark or fuel as of today. I have replaced the plugs, plug wires, cap, rotary button and coil. I replaced the fuel pump a year ago and just replaced the fuel filter. My truck would crank and idle rough all last week but drove fine but occasionally died in park or at a red light. I have also replaced the TPS and IAC sensors. I checked the fuel pump plug and it was getting 14v and last week when it was running I measured 10Psi of fuel pressure. Today I tried taking an old distributor and hooking the two plugs to the control module under the cap and then hooked a ground wire and spun the distributor by hand with the key on and I would get spark to the coil and the injectors would fire but it won't do that when cranking. I had a code 54 but after unhooking the battery and resetting the computer I haven't been able to get any codes because it won't start. I thought it was a pickup issue but I threw another distributor in it and still didn't have any luck. It's an original ECM so I think my next move is to replace that. If anyone has any suggestions as to what I should try next I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

Ignition control module. Those engines are notorious for them. They go bad, you lose fuel and spark.

 

[DavidJ]

Mine this is a while back and it was the brake booster

 

[94ChevyZ71]

Ignition control module. Those engines are notorious for them. They go bad, you lose fuel and spark.

I have went through 3 of them over the last year or at least I thought they were bad. I bought a brand new one last week and put it in and it was running fine. I had one of the old ones tested and they said it was good. Yesterday I tried using them both and it didn't change anything there was still no fuel or spark. I'm honestly stumped as to what my problem is

 

[Erik the Awful]

Are you putting thermal paste between the ICM and the distributor housing? Without the paste to conduct the heat away, they can overheat pretty quickly. Just use enough to coat the entire bottom and "glue" the ICM on without a bunch gooping out.

 

[94ChevyZ71]

Are you putting thermal paste between the ICM and the distributor housing? Without the paste to conduct the heat away, they can overheat pretty quickly. Just use enough to coat the entire bottom and "glue" the ICM on without a bunch gooping out.

Yes, I have been using the electrical grease that comes with them. I use just enough to cover the bottom.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Your pickup coil inside the distributor mat be bad. Take a look at this, it should help walk you through the diagnosis.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/distributor-mounted-icm-tests-1

 

[94ChevyZ71]

Your pickup coil inside the distributor mat be bad. Take a look at this, it should help walk you through the diagnosis.
https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/distributor-mounted-icm-tests-1

I was skeptical that my pickup coil might be bad so I tried testing it by taking an old distributor that I had and I connected the 2 plugs to the control module that was bolted to it and unhooked the ignition coil wire from the coil and the distributor that was already in the motor. I then hooked a ground wire to my second distributor and turned the key on. With everything hooked up I began spinning the distributor by hand and with every turn the injectors would pulse and I could see the Ignition coil spark because the plug wire was off. So after seeing that I swapped my distributors and hooked everything up but still no spark and no fuel while cranking. Thank you for that link I am going to test all of that when I get out of class today and Ill let you know what I find!

 

[Schurkey]

It works when you spin the distributor by hand. The same distributor, pickup coil, and module doesn't work when the engine cranks.

Does the distributor mounted in the engine actually turn when you crank the engine? Have someone turn the key while you watch the rotor.

Possibilities:
Broken timing chain
Failed gear on the rear of the cam.
Broken camshaft

 

[Stuckinkali]

It works when you spin the distributor by hand. The same distributor, pickup coil, and module doesn't work when the engine cranks.

Does the distributor mounted in the engine actually turn when you crank the engine? Have someone turn the key while you watch the rotor.

Possibilities:
Broken timing chain
Failed gear on the rear of the cam.
Broken camshaft

Schurkey is spot-on! The phase of the dist at each mag point fires the injectors as well as spark. If the rotor doesn't turn when the engine is cranked, you will get no spark AND no fuel.