New A/C system, Oil amounts in components. 1990 Silverado 5.7L R4

[L31MaxExpress]

I put this fan on a friends 92 GMC C2500. works fine, no clearance issues. Used a severe duty hayden clutch, there was one individual on this forum thay claimed it sounded like a 747 taking off. I found the complete opposite, it was quieter than the steel fan and ran less at cold start up. I liked it so much that I bought one for my squarebody as I am currently doing a B/F-body serpentine swap.

Agreed, mine is very quiet except when it really needs to pull air to cool the van down. My van has always been quieter with a more aggresively pitched plastic fan than it was with the 5 bladed steel finger chopper.

 

[tayto]

i would think the plastic fan is easier on waterpump bearings/shaft? I am going to need a 1" spacer to get my fan to sit correct correctly in the big block/diesel shroud. Definitely feel less scared about it with the plastic blade. have seen guys run spacers on clutch fans with steel blades before and it doesn't end well!

 

[L31MaxExpress]

i would think the plastic fan is easier on waterpump bearings/shaft? I am going to need a 1" spacer to get my fan to sit correct correctly in the big block/diesel shroud. Definitely feel less scared about it with the plastic blade. have seen guys run spacers on clutch fans with steel blades before and it doesn't end well!

Why not get a clutch with a longer working height?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I'm treading into new territory here, but... My belief is, if you bought new parts for your particular vehicle year, you'll be OK. If you tried to mix and match, e.g., a later R134a-vintage receiver / dryer and perhaps a hose assembly (e.g., from a 1995 truck, which seems intuitive) , with some existing R12-vintage parts already on your truck (e.g., evaporator), the fittings may not join.

Yes, simply order replacement parts for your year vehicle except, the orifice tube, they fit in just about every system. Some low pressure cycling switches came with the screw behind the electrical connector for adjustment. As long as your accumulator is new, and not contaminated with mineral oil from R12, it'll work fine in an R134A system/conversion.

 

[tayto]

Why not get a clutch with a longer working height?

if you have a suggestion i'm all ears, I couldn't find anything.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

if you have a suggestion i'm all ears, I couldn't find anything.

Here's an example of the detail one can find, on RockAuto anyway for Hayden p/n 2614 (take this link and scroll down to see the matrix of specifications, look for the measurement they give on Overall Height and use this to compare different clutches):

More Information for HAYDEN 2614

Also note the Rotation (reverse or standard), the Fan Bolt Circle (it needs to jibe with the fan you're trying to mount), and the Fan Mount Diameter (the pilot hole in the center of the fan needs to be this big or larger).

Hayden's site may have this information as well.

I've a list of part numbers you can check, below. Read on...

Back around 2004, I went into a NAPA, looked through all (or most of) their clutches appropriate to my application, and measured them, looking for a perfect fit for my S10 (w/ L31 retrofit, as radiator clearance was an issue).

Here's the scrap of paper with my notes (attached). These are both regular and reverse rotation clutches, and those with thread-on style mounting (1996+ water pump) and pedestal mounting (1995- water pump).

Looking over them now, it seems there was about 1" of variability between the shortest and the longest.

Those are Hayden part numbers (4-digit) and may cross to others.

My notation was:

Part number : distance : threaded ("M") or pedestal base (blank) : rotation (std or rev)

I won't guarantee the accuracy of these notes. Check on-line or in-store.

 

[tayto]

Thanks 1998_K1500_Sub. I looked in the Hayden catalog and the only thing that I could find that was longer was a Hayden 1722 from a late 80s Astro/S10 w/ 2.5L. it is a standard duty clutch CCW and only gains 5/8" longer.

The next up was a severe duty CCW Hayden 2783, but only gets me 3/16" and would have to modify mounting bolt pattern some.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Thanks 1998_K1500_Sub. I looked in the Hayden catalog and the only thing that I could find that was longer was a Hayden 1722 from a late 80s Astro/S10 w/ 2.5L. it is a standard duty clutch CCW and only gains 5/8" longer.

The next up was a severe duty CCW Hayden 2783, but only gets me 3/16" and would have to modify mounting bolt pattern some.

At least you tried.

I would expect a spacer would be acceptable IF it's installed properly. By that, I mean the runout of the stub shaft into the clutch is checked before its installation (to get a baseline) and then after its installation. If they're comparable, I would call it "likely success".

I might speculate the runout tolerance could / should be a few thousandths (.001-.002), but I'm just guessing. Heck, the stub shaft's eccentricity might be greater(!). Regardless, as long as no additional "wobble" (I'll call it) is introduced by the spacer, I would feel reasonably confident about its use.

 

[tayto]

here's a picture from someone that was running a 3" spacer w/ oem fan.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[OB1214]

I am ready to put the system together and have it charged. Everything is new and mostly AC Delco. I would like to know where the oil goes and the amounts for each component, Compressor, accumulator, evaproator, and condenser. I will dump the compressor to make sure it has oil and refill. I read that PAG 150 is the correct oil. Also what to lube the O-rings with? I am reusing the original lines and flushing them. Any other thngs i need to know would b helpful. I'm really looking forward to having A/C again.

With regards to the Where to put the oil in the system. The oil should only be added to the compressor. Nothing else. In a properly functioning system, the refrigerant and the oil mix but in the compressor the oil is separated from the refrigerant, and the oil is left behind to lubricate the compressor. Of course, all the oil is not separated from the refrigerant, however, there is only negligible amounts of oil flowing throughout the system.

Side note, not really all that important. During long periods of sitting time of the vehicle, 3, 4, 5 months or more, oil and refrigerant migrate to the coldest part of the system. If the compressor is mounted low this would be the evaporator; and if the compressor is mounted high, this would be the compressor. So when the vehicle is running and taken out of hibernation, low-mounted compressors tend to blow up, because there is no oil in the compressor, and it's basically dry stating the pump.