Need Axle Advice. Pictures inside.

[KevinL1987]

Okay, so here is my issue..

I have a 1997 k1500 with 328k miles on it. Truck is listed in signature. This truck has the GU6 G80. So, in terms that is the 3.42 gear ration with GM's famous, and ****ty posi traction unit that fails when we need it the most.

My ring and pinion gear is fine, not hurt at all. Its the spider/worm gears inside my carrier that is shot. I am looking for a decent carrier to replace mine with. It does not have to be posi traction, but if I can find a good one, at a reasonable price, that would be great! If anyone has one for sell, let me know!

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Link to video (Not sure if link will work or not.)
http://youtu.be/dLkV93omT6w

 

[someotherguy]

I believe a number of the 10 bolts are known for having spider gears that crap out like that. You might just consider replacing them, but only after flushing the holy crap out of the entire carrier, ring & pinion gear, etc. with brake parts cleaner, repeatedly, rotate the assembly and flush some more, over and over to be sure you get all the tiny bits out as they're gonna eat your bearings if they're not already destroyed.

Richard

 

[98_k1500]

It would be time for me to roll out the welder...

 

[thz71]

I would just put in a 14 bolt

 

[someotherguy]

I would just put in a 14 bolt

That too

Might be a little trickier finding a 3.42 14 bolt to match his front diff, most I've seen are 3.73. But I did have one that was 3.42, I definitely know they're out there, just seem less common.

Richard

 

[KevinL1987]

I believe a number of the 10 bolts are known for having spider gears that crap out like that. You might just consider replacing them, but only after flushing the holy crap out of the entire carrier, ring & pinion gear, etc. with brake parts cleaner, repeatedly, rotate the assembly and flush some more, over and over to be sure you get all the tiny bits out as they're gonna eat your bearings if they're not already destroyed.

Richard

I have thought about going that route, I'm just not 100% sure that I would like to go that route, due to the possibility of bearing/seal failure shortly after. With my number of miles, and the amount of shavings I cleaned off of the magnet, I'm highly scared to do so.

It would be time for me to roll out the welder...

I don't have access to a welder, nor would I know what to weld lol.

I would just put in a 14 bolt

If only money wasn't a factor..

That too

Might be a little trickier finding a 3.42 14 bolt to match his front diff, most I've seen are 3.73. But I did have one that was 3.42, I definitely know they're out there, just seem less common.

Richard

Correct good sir, I did find another 10 bolt at the local JY for 100 plus my old rear for a core. That's only because I worked there at one time. Still open to other options, but I'm leaning towards that deal. Yes, I would be pulling the cover off the JY diff to inspect it, and change the fluid.

 

[98_k1500]

Sounds like this is your cheapest way out^^^

 

[KevinL1987]

Okay, so I have replaced my rear end with a JY one that only had 80k miles on it. I verified, by looking at the dash cluster as they removed it from the truck.

got it installed and everything was perfect, until I went to fill it up with fluid and everything I put in it, leaked out of the pinion seal. Easy fix.


Now, after running for a couple days, I have noticed that it has locked at speeds upwards of 45-50MPH. It will stay locked until I throw it in reverse and hit the gas. When locked, it will make the inside tire chirp as you are turning.

What could be causing it to lock up during high speeds?

 

[df2x4]

Maybe someone replaced the carrier with a real locker instead of the factory g80? Does it seem to be locked all the time?

 

[someotherguy]

Didn't open the cover up to verify condition and gear ratio before buying? Just because it's on a vehicle doesn't mean it's original.

Richard