My Flat Tappet Cam Wiped Out So I Decided To Go Roller

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

L31MaxExpress

I'm Awesome
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
6,249
Reaction score
8,322
Location
DFW, TX
I chased all the holes and cleaned them with brake clean, wiped the threads clean with a cotton gun cleaning brush, cleaned the studs with acetone, used Permetex PTFE sealer on the studs, let it mellow for a while, actually almost too long, since it was pretty tacky getting the studs into place. Then cranked them all the way in tight with the allen key and backed them off 1/4 turn.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 

0xDEADBEEF

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 3, 2021
Messages
2,710
Reaction score
6,810
Location
127.0.0.1
Kinda OT, but Torque Test Channel on youtube tested a bunch of bolts to failure. Kinda interesting. They are LS bolts, but might have application here.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
 

PlayingWithTBI

2022 Truck of the Year
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Messages
9,777
Reaction score
15,319
Location
Tonopah, AZ
IT'S ALIVE!!!

Yesterday, we pulled the distributor and changed the gear with a Melonized one. The gear I originally got was too big at .491", it turns out my distributor has a .430" shaft. The Summit Racing gears costs $18.99 while the Comp Cams is $108.95 :oops:, guess which one I went with. FYI these gears have a dimple on one side under the roll pin hole. That needs to be in line with the direction the rotor is pointing. We stabbed the distributor again after confirming we are at TDC on compression stroke. We turned the engine over until the intake valve opened, then closed, and kept turning until the pointer and balancer were in line.

Then we put everything back on top - throttle bracket (yes it take 2 studs through the intake's left side rear bolts), Ignition coil, Throttle body, fuel lines, wiring harness to the sensors, etc. I got the 95-1/4" serpentine belt for A/C, W/O A.I.R. it fit perfect, the tensioner marks line up perfectly.

Then I wanted to check cranking compression to ensure we set lifter preload correctly and get some oil circulating before firing it up. I kept the old oil filter on it so we didn't have to fill it before getting oil to the rest of the block. Here's what we got - Cyl/PSI, 1/190, 3/197, 5/180 (at that time I was getting oil pressure on the gauge), 7/165, the rest were all between 160 and 165. We went back to 1, 3, and 5. They were all between 160 and 165. By that time I was getting ~54LB oil pressure. It seems, without oil flow (maybe cranking faster) we were getting weird readings, what do you think?

Installed the plugs before the headers - made it sooo much easier
You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach


Valve covers and ESC/MAP modules' bracket, plug wires, coolant hoses, etc. We left the A.I.R. pump on since its top mounting bolt also helps support the A/C compressor. Down the road, I'm gonna make a sleeve to replace it and still help brace the compressor.
You must be registered for see images attach


Turned on the ignition and primed the TB, started cranking, it fired up, just like it usually does, after ~2 seconds! Sounded great with open headers! It settled down to idle and had a little lope to it :waytogo: I shut it off after about 20 seconds but, I couldn't resist, I started it back up and rapped the pedal a couple times - instant response and no back fires or spitting, YAY! :pepper::pepper::pepper:

We still have to put on the grille, Y pipe, O2 sensors (I have a NBO2 and a WBO2), fill it with coolant, before running it for ~10 minutes. Then we'll change the oil and filter, hook up my laptop and see what it does cold and warmed up ;)

I'm about ready to close this upgrade down. Here's where I stand with parts and costs. I know there's cheaper ways to do it but, I'm comfortable with this.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

0xDEADBEEF

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 3, 2021
Messages
2,710
Reaction score
6,810
Location
127.0.0.1
I'm not seeing 12k in costs, you could build a Turbo LS 67 Dodge for that ;), but glad you got it going.
 

df2x4

4L60E Destroyer
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
11,250
Reaction score
12,961
Location
Missouri
Nice!!

One question though, like 0xDEADBEEF mentioned, what's up with the $12,397.90 total on your spreadsheet? I just did the math and it looks like the $2,201.45 that's at the bottom of your "Notes" column should actually be the total.
 

L31MaxExpress

I'm Awesome
Joined
Apr 21, 2018
Messages
6,249
Reaction score
8,322
Location
DFW, TX
Nice!!

One question though, like 0xDEADBEEF mentioned, what's up with the $12,397.90 total on your spreadsheet? I just did the math and it looks like the $2,201.45 that's at the bottom of your "Notes" column should actually be the total.
Maybe the whole truck, previous engine swap, etc. I could never put an exact figure to a vehicle like that.
 

PlayingWithTBI

2022 Truck of the Year
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2019
Messages
9,777
Reaction score
15,319
Location
Tonopah, AZ
I'm not seeing 12k in costs, you could build a Turbo LS 67 Dodge for that ;), but glad you got it going.
This may be a little confusing, the $12K is for the complete build of the engine and drive train (123 lines of parts), not including $4,100 for paint and trim. So, I'm over $16K as she stands now.

I just did the math and it looks like the $2,201.45 that's at the bottom of your "Notes" column should actually be the total.
Yes, it is for the Cam Upgrade. Each section of my build has a "sub total" in that "notes" cell.
 

df2x4

4L60E Destroyer
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
11,250
Reaction score
12,961
Location
Missouri
Makes sense, thanks for clarifying!
 
Top