My 454 Rebuild

[Piratehunter]

Glad you got this sorted out...if Black Bear put the tune in the 0411, won't they update it? I thought they provided updates on changes. I've been real happy with the tune they did in my blackbox

 

[Spareparts]

I removed it to help diagnose the problem i was having thinking the original ecu might help. Only takes about a hour to put it back.
Getting a retune can be done for sure but the problem is a guy needs to live by their schedule and for me it does not work at all unless i take a day off from work to drive the 50 miles there.
They do not seem to do anything on Fridays and that's my day off.

 

[Spareparts]

The electric fans seem to be working great so far. I think the trick is not have then adjusted to come on at the second the thermostat opens, I did it that way to start with and the fans almost never shut off after coming on. I turned the turn on temp up a little bit and they now seem to be cycling about how i think they should.
Also, the battery and cable upgrade is a success for sure!. Before at idle my battery voltage read a steady 13.9 volts. Now it's reading a steady 14.5 volts.
I have #2 cables running from the
block to battery -
Battery to fender - but it is maybe #10 wire size. not sure but twice the size of the original.
Alt to battery +
Battery to starter +
Battery + to the 175 amp fuse
From 175 amp fuse to under hood fuse box +
Is there any other one i need to do?

 

[Spareparts]

Forgot. I also ordered the OBDlink sx usb cable.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

The electric fans seem to be working great so far. I think the trick is not have then adjusted to come on at the second the thermostat opens, I did it that way to start with and the fans almost never shut off after coming on. I turned the turn on temp up a little bit and they now seem to be cycling about how i think they should.
Also, the battery and cable upgrade is a success for sure!. Before at idle my battery voltage read a steady 13.9 volts. Now it's reading a steady 14.5 volts.
I have #2 cables running from the
block to battery -
Battery to fender - but it is maybe #10 wire size. not sure but twice the size of the original.
Alt to battery +
Battery to starter +
Battery + to the 175 amp fuse
From 175 amp fuse to under hood fuse box +
Is there any other one i need to do?

When I had electrics on mine, I had them come on low at 100F engine temp. To get airflow across the trans cooler and help get some of the header heat out of the engine compartment. high fan was set to come on a little before the 180F thermostat opening temp of ~178-182F. They also ran on low speed for 3 minutes after shut down if the engine was over 160F to help reduce heat soak. Bringing the fans on early also helped the ac system. I had low fan on at 40F with the ac on. Still overheated on me during the summer months when towing.

I am about to PWM control the EV Clutch because the P59 can. Currently the PCM is controlling the EV clutch as on or off at 195F/190F which saps alot of power. Once the clutch is fully on it takes about 10 seconds to release once you cut the power to it.

 

[Spareparts]

Yeah, until it actually get to the heat of summer it is hard to know for sure but for now it seems to be working good.
Since i sold my boat the only thing i tow is a trailer with 2 quads. Under 4k.

 

[BeXtreme]

If I did not already own HP Tuners, I would not buy it personally. I would be using Universal Patcher, TunerProRT and PCM Hammer. I actually find myself using it more and more anyway even owning HPTuners. HP Tuners does less but is a little more user friendly. I have not bought a HP Tuners VIN license for a P01 or P59 in close to 6 months since I have been using the Open Source stuff. With Universal Patcher you can either use it for Editing or export a definition file for TunerPro. Universal patcher also has the ability to do segment swaps, add lean cruise or even flex fuel on the P59s. I have a DBC P59 file for a 4x ignition reluctor and the vortec distributor setup.

You can download the programs I mentioned and get an OBDLinkSX OBD2 USB cable for $50. With that you actually have more editing ability than HP Tuners provides.

I definitely agree with this. I ended up getting HP Tuners so that I could do some things that needed to be done on my 2011 Suburban, since there is no free software available to do that. The biggest thing was trans tuning after a rebuild and gear swap to improve towing. The 6L80 had some upgrades and it was having issues shifting since I had gone from the factory 3.08 gears to 4.10's to help with towing. I haven't used any credits to license the 0411 yet.

I used Tunerpro and Universal patcher to hack together the OS for my L29/4l80 swap. Its an F-body base file with a 4x4 4L80 trans segment. I used blue cat software to modify the trans tables and also enabled Oil Pressure and lean cruise. I've also got the 8.1 ignition tables for a base, since it is converted to CNP. I haven't gotten it into the truck yet, so no idea how well it will work or what issues I might run into with it.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I definitely agree with this. I ended up getting HP Tuners so that I could do some things that needed to be done on my 2011 Suburban, since there is no free software available to do that. The biggest thing was trans tuning after a rebuild and gear swap to improve towing. The 6L80 had some upgrades and it was having issues shifting since I had gone from the factory 3.08 gears to 4.10's to help with towing. I haven't used any credits to license the 0411 yet.

I used Tunerpro and Universal patcher to hack together the OS for my L29/4l80 swap. Its an F-body base file with a 4x4 4L80 trans segment. I used blue cat software to modify the trans tables and also enabled Oil Pressure and lean cruise. I've also got the 8.1 ignition tables for a base, since it is converted to CNP. I haven't gotten it into the truck yet, so no idea how well it will work or what issues I might run into with it.

The tune in my van is a 2005 Mexican L31 file in a DBC P59. Swapped in a 2wd 4L80E segment from a 2005 6.0L van and the Sytem Options segment to control the Analog AC. Only thing I had to do wiring wise was move the alternator control wires, ground a pin that normally recieves a ground from an ac pressure switch on a 2005 van so that the ac would work (earlier Vortec trucks have both pressure switches in series on the ac request signal) , and swap the red covers for green ones. I then enabled the flex fuel sensor and lean cruise. Since my calibration was for a manual trans, I had to populate some of the tables for the idle control PID loop in Park/Neutral that had zeros from the factory. Those tables are available in Universal Patcher and thus TunerProRT but not in HP Tuners.

 

[Spareparts]

Cable should be here Thursday and we just bought the wife a new laptop so im going to use her old one that will work fine for a tuning laptop.
Hopefully i can figure out how to make it all work and learn to tune.

 

[Reluctanse]

If I did not already own HP Tuners, I would not buy it personally. I would be using Universal Patcher, TunerProRT and PCM Hammer. I actually find myself using it more and more anyway even owning HPTuners. HP Tuners does less but is a little more user friendly. I have not bought a HP Tuners VIN license for a P01 or P59 in close to 6 months since I have been using the Open Source stuff. With Universal Patcher you can either use it for Editing or export a definition file for TunerPro. Universal patcher also has the ability to do segment swaps, add lean cruise or even flex fuel on the P59s. I have a DBC P59 file for a 4x ignition reluctor and the vortec distributor setup.

You can download the programs I mentioned and get an OBDLinkSX OBD2 USB cable for $50. With that you actually have more editing ability than HP Tuners provides.

Pure gold right here… I’m using a borrowed hptuners that still cost me $200 in licensing to get things going… plus I’ll have to return it at some point. $50 for a cable plus some open source hardware is right up my alley.
Does that setup have any provision for getting a Wideband logger linked in?