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someotherguy

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What everyone should keep in mind when responding is OP has a '90 Suburban which is a squarebody, so any part #'s for a GMT400 are not likely to cross over.

Also control-specific comments are likely to be less relevant, too. Squarebodies still rely on cable/lever and vacuum style controls. It may be a door operation issue, or the evaporator core may be clogged with debris still. Depends on where all you've cleaned. It's been forever since I've messed with any squarebody and the evaporator housing is very different from a GMT400, but I'm sure they can get clogged up just the same. There are spray foam cleaners meant for this job that you can shoot in there but specifics on getting it in there for your generation of truck, you may want to do some searching on youtube or otherwise. Cleaning leaves/pine straw/etc. out of the box is a good start but the evaporator fins are likely covered in "mud" from years of dusty air combining with evap moisture, and this will impede airflow considerably.

Just for reference, pic is from a GMT400 evap housing, but an example of just how funky an evap can be and this is from a truck where the A/C was actually working reasonably well with decent airflow. I took it apart anyway because I was swapping this housing into another cab. Glad I did the extra work. This is from a '98 model that I took apart in '09 so only 10-11 years old at the time.

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Here's one from an older parts truck from years before...nevermind the loose debris, it's the mud that is the real airflow-killer.
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Richard
 
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Motorgod0

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Someotherguy thanks for the input. Yes it is cable and vacuum controls. All those seem to be working. Any cracks and gaps are sealed. Foam was replaced. The picture look similar to what I have and it is completely cleaned out and washed down. I’m still troubleshooting it. May just end up taking it in. It works enough just wish there were more power. But it will have to wait for now. I’m getting a stall issue in reverse now so that is taking priority. Appreciate everyone’s input
 

someotherguy

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Have you checked that with fan speed set on high, what the voltage is at the blower motor connections?

Richard
 

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Engine running? System voltage should be ~14.x.
You'd be about three volts short of system voltage.

If the alternator isn't charging, system voltage would be 12.5, perhaps.
A little more than one volt down, which would be much more reasonable.
 

Motorgod0

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Engine running? System voltage should be ~14.x.
You'd be about three volts short of system voltage.

If the alternator isn't charging, system voltage would be 12.5, perhaps.
A little more than one volt down, which would be much more reasonable.

Thanks. I’ll check it again when I get a chance.
 

Motorgod0

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Thanks. I’ll check it again when I get a chance.
I was likely checking it wrong or not holding a lead in place properly. I’m getting getting mid to high 14. I replaced the alternator a month ago so I ruled that out. I’m also running a dual battery setup. I have no idea if that has a bearing on anything but worth mentioning
 

Motorgod0

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I think you should be getting around 38 - 42 degree air out of your vents on MAX AC on high blower. If not, something is not right. At those temps if your fan is working anywhere near right it should get really cold in there. I think you could maybe use a meat thermometer if it goes low enough to verify you temps coming out, and you may need to hold the throttle around 1k at first.

instant read thermometer is at 50 degrees in the driveway,48or so moving
 
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