Ls1 Spun bearing.

[ls6firebird]

I work at a Chevy dealership so I get parts cheap, also I have a neighbor upgrading his bumblebee, he have me his intake and cam. budget wise as long as I dont order parts more than my check is I'll be fine.

what kind of power are you wanting to make?

 

[ls6firebird]

im almost positive a gen 4 cam wont work in a gen 3 motor. an ls6 cam is a good option if you want to run a factory cam. at full price, the minimal gains arent worth it. but they can be found very cheap used and if you can get a good price on one from work, it will help. if you go that route, use an 02-04 ls6 cam with the yellow ls6 springs. depending on your budget tho, a bigger cam from a vendor such as texas speed, eps, or thunder racing would add signifigant more power. im running a cam from texas speed that put me over 400rwhp cam only. thats a lot bigger cam that what you would want to put in your truck tho, just a real world example. a cam in the 220 duration range would probably be recommended by most

also, there is a set of ls1 pistons and rods on performancetrucks for $100


edit: also, almost positive the intake he gave you wont work either. those have rectangle ports. you would have to run the l92 or ls3 heads, but those are too big for the stock ls1 bore

 

[chen]

mmm well seeing how it's a project, I'm thinking 383 stroker.
locally I have a shop that'll help out so I'll go poke around there see what he says

 

[ls6firebird]

mmm well seeing how it's a project, I'm thinking 383 stroker.
locally I have a shop that'll help out so I'll go poke around there see what he says

there ya go. if you have the funds for that, you may want to see what kind of results people are getting with 5.3 and 6.0s too. theres pros and cons to either. you can get a complete iron block to drop straight in and throw a decent head cam package on it. but if you end up doing a complete build, the big cube iron blocks can get pricey in a hurry. ive seen a lot of guys drop a bunch of money in a stout short block, run out of money and end up corking the motor b/c they cant afford a set of heads that can flow enough. i know in the cars, the big cube setups are a lot more streetable than the radical smaller setups.

you can build a street freindly 383 ls1 that will make great power too tho. you might check out some of the heads/cam packages at texas speed to get an idea of some options on that route. then see what the machine shop would recommend

 

[Tempted]

383 strokers are about the most reliable stroked small blocks you can build for less than 2 grand. But, that said, you can pick up good 4.8 and 5.3 LS motors for less than a thousand and have great, super reliable power abilities. My 99 Z71 has a 5.3 and while it is a dog stock it isn't hard to wake them up. You can find a good LS engine for $600 or so and then spend another 5-600 on a cam, intake and throttle body to make over 350 reliable hp that won't do all that bad on fuel. You really have to massage a 383 and use a nearly un-streetable cam to make 400hp. With that comes a non-operational AC at idle, low engine vacuum, a higher stall converter and deep pockets to pay for the fuel. No matter how you build an LS you won't ever be able to get that old gen 1 small block sound.

 

[ls6firebird]

383 strokers are about the most reliable stroked small blocks you can build for less than 2 grand. But, that said, you can pick up good 4.8 and 5.3 LS motors for less than a thousand and have great, super reliable power abilities. My 99 Z71 has a 5.3 and while it is a dog stock it isn't hard to wake them up. You can find a good LS engine for $600 or so and then spend another 5-600 on a cam, intake and throttle body to make over 350 reliable hp that won't do all that bad on fuel. You really have to massage a 383 and use a nearly un-streetable cam to make 400hp. With that comes a non-operational AC at idle, low engine vacuum, a higher stall converter and deep pockets to pay for the fuel. No matter how you build an LS you won't ever be able to get that old gen 1 small block sound.

its amazing what just a tune and long tubes can do to get a 5.3 going. you can throw a lot at them too, the bottom end will take a lot more than what people realize.

you should be able to get a streetable 400+hp cam for a 383. my car put down 416 cam only. its 239/242 649/609 on a 111 lsa. it shouldnt take near that much cam on a 383. if the tuner knows what he's doing, a setup like that can be very streetable. its not going to be like stock, and it wont have as good of street manners as bigger cubed motor, but it can be streetable

 

[Tempted]

its amazing what just a tune and long tubes can do to get a 5.3 going. you can throw a lot at them too, the bottom end will take a lot more than what people realize.

you should be able to get a streetable 400+hp cam for a 383. my car put down 416 cam only. its 239/242 649/609 on a 111 lsa. it shouldnt take near that much cam on a 383. if the tuner knows what he's doing, a setup like that can be very streetable. its not going to be like stock, and it wont have as good of street manners as bigger cubed motor, but it can be streetable

6 bolt mains, the bottom end of an LS is nearly indestructible. Weak points are the bearings and rods but even those are capable of 500hp stock.

649/609 is nuts. How do you get it to idle less than 1k rpms? Power band on that cam has to be in the 3500-7000 range. You can make a 400hp 383 streetable with the right c/r and head choice but you would still need a minimum of a 550 lift and that would give you a pronounced lope at idle. And a 400hp gen 1 won't be as durable as a 400hp LS. 6.0s go 300k all the time at nearly 400hp used in HD trucks. Do that with a 400hp gen 1 and you'll be picking up your rods from the road in 50k.

 

[ls6firebird]

6 bolt mains, the bottom end of an LS is nearly indestructible. Weak points are the bearings and rods but even those are capable of 500hp stock.

649/609 is nuts. How do you get it to idle less than 1k rpms? Power band on that cam has to be in the 3500-7000 range. You can make a 400hp 383 streetable with the right c/r and head choice but you would still need a minimum of a 550 lift and that would give you a pronounced lope at idle. And a 400hp gen 1 won't be as durable as a 400hp LS. 6.0s go 300k all the time at nearly 400hp used in HD trucks. Do that with a 400hp gen 1 and you'll be picking up your rods from the road in 50k.

i didnt lol. my buddy that tuned it did a hell of a job. it idles around 800. yea 3 something to 7200, peaks at 6800. it doesnt do much below 4k, but pulls extremely hard up top. its still pulling when i shift at 7200, but im not pushin past that till i get new rod bolts.

yea the main thing is getting a good head/cam combo that works together. a lot of people look past that. haha you arent kiddin!