LS……4.8 or 5.3????

[Silverado1994]

Why did it sensor out me saying, “big”, “black”??? Lol

It's no biggie really. An admin somewhere/ sometime put key words in that trigger censoring. I'm an admin elsewhere and you'd be surprised what some participants come up with. It's just an administrative tool to keep the censoring/ editing/ babysitting down on their end from day to day.

 

[clgodwin79]

It's no biggie really. An admin somewhere/ sometime put key words in that trigger censoring. I'm an admin elsewhere and you'd be surprised what some participants come up with. It's just an administrative tool to keep the censoring/ editing/ babysitting down on their end from day to day.

Fair enough.

It just kind of seems like the website’s mind is in the gutter! Lol

 

[Silverado1994]

Fair enough.

It just kind of seems like the website’s mind is in the gutter! Lol

LOL!!! No it's just that when you turn people loose.....they're gonna do what they can get by with if left unchecked. I've seen alot in my time on forums. lol

 

[clgodwin79]

Working on it. A little low on motivation today.

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[clgodwin79]

Look how much beefier the 1 ton is vs the 1/2 ton. Hopefully this also makes it easier to spin the engine around on it.

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[Erik the Awful]

I had my Cadillac motor mounted on a stand similar to the cheap Harbor Freight stand. The stand held it just fine, the problem was finding bolts that were strong enough to keep the engine from sagging over time. Grade 8 bolts were bending. It holds a SBC just fine.

When I went in search of a second engine stand to mod into a transmission stand, HF was out of them. I think they're having a hard time getting them in stock. I ended up building it myself out of 2x3x.120" tubing.

 

[clgodwin79]

I had my Cadillac motor mounted on a stand similar to the cheap Harbor Freight stand. The stand held it just fine, the problem was finding bolts that were strong enough to keep the engine from sagging over time. Grade 8 bolts were bending. It holds a SBC just fine.

When I went in search of a second engine stand to mod into a transmission stand, HF was out of them. I think they're having a hard time getting them in stock. I ended up building it myself out of 2x3x.120" tubing.

Yeah, there were none of the half tons anywhere near me. So they’re definitely struggling to get them in stock.

I picked up 4 standard M10-1.5 90mm bolts at my local Ace Hardware. But I really don’t trust them to hold the weight long term. So I found this 5 pay of grade 10.9 zinc plated ones on Amazon and ordered them. Again, at the current moment, this is a fully assembled engine. So it’s going to have a LOT of weight on the stand.

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[Schurkey]

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^^^ That is NOT how an engine should be attached to an engine stand. The bolts holding it to the stand are in the lowest bolt holes, with lots of top-heavy weight leveraging stress on the bolts.

Ideally, you want
1. The longest practical distance between the bolts. The bolts going into the second-from-the-bottom holes in the block should transfer to the third-above-the-bottom holes, and
2. The entire engine should sit low on the stand. Typically the stand's pivot point should be approximately level with the camshaft. That engine seems good in that regard. I have trouble with my engine stands getting the engine low enough so it's not top-heavy when rolling it over on the stand's pivot.

I don't know how you could bend Grade 8 bolts going into the block. Grade 5 should be more than enough. I had an Olds 455 and a Pontiac 455 hung from engine stands; the Pontiac ran for half-an-hour, the Olds ran for an hour and a half or more--long enough for the cooling system sealer to patch a pinhole in the cylinder head.

Pontiac engine:

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Shiity Chinese engine stands should get a thread all by themselves. They've pretty-much all got the same problems: Too-small adapter plate, too-short spacers on the arms, ridiculously-short handles for spinning the motor on the too-high-friction pivot. Generally flimsy construction. A fully-dressed big-block wouldn't be more than 700-ish pounds, why does a "1200-pound" engine-stand flex and sag when you bolt up a small-block? Realistically, this is the fault of the Communist Collaborators in America who import these defective designs. The Chinese wouldn't know any better.

I lengthened all the slots, even tried turning the adapter-plate upside down to see if it'd work better. There isn't enough material (width) on the plate to get this "right", but I got it better.

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The welded-in bolt spacers are only about an inch and a quarter long. They need to be much longer for decent access to the flexplate. I've used 1/2" nuts as spacers, I've used pieces of black-iron pipe as spacers. A friend of mine welded-up his own engine stand, he used wrist-pins as spacers.

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[BPR Speed]

[U]clgodwin79[/U] Let me know if you want to see one assembled soon. I'll be building a 5.3 LM7 starting around the first week of March, you're welcome to swing by. I also found a 5.3 LM7 in Smithfield that I'll be looking at buying for $150! Intake to oil pan but disassembled. Not a problem with me as it'll end up next to the other LM7 I have in my shed for a future build when it comes along. I should be starting up my L31 build this next week as well once the PCM comes in the mail. Hit me up sometime!

 

[clgodwin79]

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^^^ That is NOT how an engine should be attached to an engine stand. The bolts holding it to the stand are in the lowest bolt holes, with lots of top-heavy weight leveraging stress on the bolts.

Ideally, you want
1. The longest practical distance between the bolts. The bolts going into the second-from-the-bottom holes in the block should transfer to the third-above-the-bottom holes, and
2. The entire engine should sit low on the stand. Typically the stand's pivot point should be approximately level with the camshaft. That engine seems good in that regard. I have trouble with my engine stands getting the engine low enough so it's not top-heavy when rolling it over on the stand's pivot.

I don't know how you could bend Grade 8 bolts going into the block. Grade 5 should be more than enough. I had an Olds 455 and a Pontiac 455 hung from engine stands; the Pontiac ran for half-an-hour, the Olds ran for an hour and a half or more--long enough for the cooling system sealer to patch a pinhole in the cylinder head.

Pontiac engine:

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Shiity Chinese engine stands should get a thread all by themselves. They've pretty-much all got the same problems: Too-small adapter plate, too-short spacers on the arms, ridiculously-short handles for spinning the motor on the too-high-friction pivot. Generally flimsy construction. A fully-dressed big-block wouldn't be more than 700-ish pounds, why does a "1200-pound" engine-stand flex and sag when you bolt up a small-block? Realistically, this is the fault of the Communist Collaborators in America who import these defective designs. The Chinese wouldn't know any better.

I lengthened all the slots, even tried turning the adapter-plate upside down to see if it'd work better. There isn't enough material (width) on the plate to get this "right", but I got it better.

You must be registered for see images attach

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The welded-in bolt spacers are only about an inch and a quarter long. They need to be much longer for decent access to the flexplate. I've used 1/2" nuts as spacers, I've used pieces of black-iron pipe as spacers. A friend of mine welded-up his own engine stand, he used wrist-pins as spacers.

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What’s the point in the copyright on all of your pictures? Just curious.