Lower Radiator Hose Problems

[Kamd90Chevy]

OK guys, I've been wrenching since i was 9 with my Dad. I'm no master tech but this is really starting to gripe my bum. I've had a problem with my lower radiator hose leaking past the clamp at the water pump side for months. So i changed the lower hose and clamps, thinking the rubber was aging. Less than 2 weeks go by and it starts doing it again. Only leaks about a 2 to 3 in spot after driving. So i took it apart and did it again, then got the same results. So i found some moisture by the weep hole, so i changed the pump and bought another lower hose, from NAPA this time, and have gotten the same results. So i've been searching for a better alternative and this is all i have found,

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cel-5005

anyone done these yet?

 

[joep88cheyenne]

Since you are looking at replacing the hose. Try using some RTV or form a gasket and on the dry hose coat the inside and let it dry then install hose and clamps. if you let it dry it won't glue to the pump, may be difficult to come loose later on. if it seals then problem solved for now.

I wonder if the clamps are securing solidly. If you have enough room try running 2 clamp on the pump neck. Just out of box thinking here, but I have seen 2 clamps used and I used 2 clamps on regular garden hose repairs to stop leaks.

 

[Kamd90Chevy]

Well your reply made me think, open my damn tool box and use my tools lol. I hooked up my Matco pressure tester and put 16 pounds on it. The lower hose at the pump, the heater hose at the radiator side, and the upper radiator hose at the t-stat housing all leaked. Had to remedy all of them. Then topped the fluids back off. Hoping that's the end of that. I did however utilize your 2 clamp idea on the lower hose at the pump for good measure. Crossing my fingers. Thanks for the jump start bud.

 

[Mike Napolitano]

Use ultra grey silicone on water pump, thermostat where hoses attach then slide hoses on and let it sit for a bit then tighten clamps

 

[Kirth Gersen]

I've never had any problem with OEM stock hoses.

I do clean all around the male barbs with a 'fine" abrasive scotchbrite pad, as it can accumulate crud and corrosion which will cause leaks. The underside of a hose barb is too easy to overlook.

Ordinary worm-drive hose clamps won't expand/contract with heat, pressure, or as rubber hose compresses over time, and need to be periodically checked & tightened ... the OEM style, "constant tension" band clamps are better, as they continuously self-adjust.
You can find them at industrial distributors such as www.mcmaster.com

 

[Urambo Tauro]

+1 on the OE-style spring clamps. Another thing about regular worm gear clamps is that they also have a nasty tendency to chew into the hose with repeated use. You could also use a hybrid T-bolt clamp that uses a spring on the bolt to provide constant tension.

Whatever clamp you do end up using, make sure that it's placed directly behind the barb over the hose. Between a clean barb, a good hose, a good clamp, and proper placement of that clamp, you shouldn't have any problems.

 

[joep88cheyenne]

Use ultra grey silicone on water pump, thermostat where hoses attach then slide hoses on and let it sit for a bit then tighten clamps

Since he was considering new hoses again I was suggesting the double clamp so if he did want to go to new he would not have to struggle with the removal. I did mention adding silicon or rtv to the hose area to take up space in the hose barb gap, and cover slight imperfections that might have occurred.

The sealant did come to mind when I was posting, but set it aside for trouble shooting. Good thinking on sealing during install. +1