Lower Intermediate Steering Shaft

[SpencerSr]

Been using these on my trucks , on my 4th truck with this exact part with no problems

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[Leonidman63]

Been using these on my trucks , on my 4th truck with this exact part with no problems

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Hi SpencerSr, I have a 1992 C1500, do you know if this will fit my truck or what do I need to measure to get one like that?

 

[Donald Mitchell]

There"s nothing wrong with using the rag joint . They used them for decades. I understand why someone with a 4wd with oversize tires that put extra strain on the steering might want U joints but on a street driven truck the rag joint would be fine and less vibration through the steering wheel.

 

[BOWHNT]

Pull your old shaft off.
Get a NAPA 630-1440 rag joint kit.
Get 4, 3/8 X 1 1/4 long, grade 8 bolts and nylok nuts.
Throw the hardware away that comes with the rag joint.
Drill or ziz wheel the rivets off.
Clearance bolt holes in flanges.
Bolt together with nuts on top.

Separate shaft and clean up. Apply some grease to the shaft and tension spring bar and reassemble.

Clamp the upper coupler ears in a vise and slightly pinch them to reduce slop/play.

Reinstall in truck... you're good for another 10 years +

Total cost under $20

Thanks. You say "nuts on top". Which side do you consider the top and you run all four bolts the same way instead of two each direction?

 

[Schurkey]

There"s nothing wrong with using the rag joint . They used them for decades. I understand why someone with a 4wd with oversize tires that put extra strain on the steering might want U joints but on a street driven truck the rag joint would be fine and less vibration through the steering wheel.

The OEM rag joint is under-engineered. They've got an incredibly high failure rate--pretty-much 100%.

"Failure" in this case doesn't mean you lose steering ability, but the "slop" a failed rag joint produces is annoying and excessive; it removes all "precision" from the steering.

 

[Stillruns]

Brad,

Nuts on top as you would see them once installed. Yes, all 4 the same direction to avoid any clearance issues. Forgot to add to reuse the original steel top and bottom safety/retainer brackets.

 

[BOWHNT]

Had to put two each direction. Wouldn't clear with all four one way. Also, can you clarify this:

"Clamp the upper coupler ears in a vise and slightly pinch them to reduce slop/play."

 

[Stillruns]

If you look at the top coupler, you will see two long ribs about 1/2" wide running the length of the coupler on opposite sides.
Over time these ribs will get spread out or widened from forces of the pucks inside.
If you put the ribs, (while still fully assembled), in a vise and clamp them down just a little, (squeezing them to make them a little narrower), it will remove any slop in the coupler.
Between replacing the rag joint and resizing the upper coupler ribs, you will have zero steering wheel play.

An old guy that owned a front end / alignment shop showed me this trick about 20 years ago and I've done a dozen times or so with good results...

 

[Stillruns]

BTW,
If you're putting this much effort in to restoring your front suspension and steering, don't forget to replace your rear spring bushings, (front and rear), and the rear leaf hangars.
Thrust angle will affect how well your truck tracks after the alignment, especially if your bushings are dried out.

Don't waste your money on urethane bushings... just buy stock Moog parts and you'll be good for a long time.

 

[Donald Mitchell]

The OEM rag joint is under-engineered. They've got an incredibly high failure rate--pretty-much 100%.

"Failure" in this case doesn't mean you lose steering ability, but the "slop" a failed rag joint produces is annoying and excessive; it removes all "precision" from the steering.

I really don't know how you can say that as they were used for decades and after 30 years do wear out, so will the ones with universal joints. And adding 33" tires will accelerate that wear as well as other parts.