Looking for bolts

[Osteoblast]

Hi,

I'm trying to rebuild my front suspension.
'98 Tahoe 2dr 4WD GMT400
Everything is rusted and stuck together.
I had to cut some bolts and now I'm looking for new ones.

- bolts holding the shocks
- bolts for the upper control arm (buying new ones, I guess a new UCA comes with bolts?)
- bolts for the lower control arm (lower control arm (new and idealy forged) not available anymore...?)

I think the bolts for the LCA are not available anymore.
Does anyone know the bolt size for the bolts mentioned above?

And unlucky me, I'm trying this in Germany. So no Junkyard or fancy bolt store for Chevys around...

Thanks!

 

[Osteoblast]

Well, for the UCA I can order Cam bolts...

 

[Eveready]

Some of the bolt are Metric which should be no problem for you. For the SAE bolts you can't find one workaround i have seen done is for you to buy a set of common SAE taps and dies (well mostly dies in your case) and use them to re thread the closest metric size to fit the SAE item. It isnt an ideal solution but usually the added threads will hold well enough for the fastener to work. The ideal way of course would be to start with a bigger size, turn it down to "close" in a lathe and then run the SAE tap. Again not the best solution but beats mail order from the states.

 

[east302]

When it works, this site has the GM parts diagrams and you can probably figure out the bolt sizes.

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/chevrolet/

I see two different diagrams for the shock bolts (and recall that they are two different lengths) so I’ll give both.

This one does not give the specs for the lower but does for the upper:

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And this one gives the upper as a different length and size entirely:

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If it were me, I’d just buy bolts of both sizes and see what works. M21 vs M12 looks like a typo, and I’m pretty certain that they’re the same diameter, just different lengths.

I had trouble figuring out the control arm bolts, but there are only three diagrams to look through. It’s hopefully enough to give you a starting point.

 

[Schurkey]

buy a set of common SAE taps and dies (well mostly dies in your case) and use them to re thread the closest metric size to fit the SAE item. It isnt an ideal solution but usually the added threads will hold well enough for the fastener to work. The ideal way of course would be to start with a bigger size, turn it down to "close" in a lathe and then run the SAE tap. Again not the best solution but beats mail order from the states.

"Cut" threads SUCK compared to rolled threads.

You'd have to be nuts to re-thread bolts on safety-critical items like suspension parts.

 

[Eveready]

"Cut" threads SUCK compared to rolled threads.

You'd have to be nuts to re-thread bolts on safety-critical items like suspension parts.

i would presume safety precautions would be in effect such as a thread locker or other safety precaution on such an important part. It is a work around to get the truck functional and of course the ideal solution is to get the right parts which can take a while where the OP is. Sometimes there are no "proper" solutions at hand, at least not timely ones.

 

[454cid]

i would presume safety precautions would be in effect such as a thread locker or other safety precaution on such an important part. It is a work around to get the truck functional and of course the ideal solution is to get the right parts which can take a while where the OP is. Sometimes there are no "proper" solutions at hand, at least not timely ones.

Thread locker isn't going to replace mangled threads that have been cut with Metric and SAE dies. Are these bolts even SAE? Our trucks are typically metric.

 

[Eveready]

Thread locker isn't going to replace mangled threads that have been cut with Metric and SAE dies. Are these bolts even SAE? Our trucks are typically metric.

I admit that surprised me too. I think if the OP really looks he will find equivalent bolts to take care of whatever is missing. I doubt there would be any safety issues with sawing (or grinding) off some of the right thread size that just happened to be too long.

 

[Schurkey]

Wander down to any supplier of hardware, buy "Grade 8" or the equivalent in Metric, as needed.

Fairly certain everything is Metric. SAE and Metric are both easy to find here, I bet SAE is pretty scarce in Germany.

 

[454cid]

Wander down to any supplier of hardware, buy "Grade 8" or the equivalent in Metric, as needed.

Should be 10.9 for metric.

I'd look for flanged like OEM, but I'm not sure it's necessary.