Anyone make better stabilizer bracket “U bolts” for 2wd bolt on Steeing stabilizers ?

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SUBURBAN5

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So In hand do these feel and look and over all seem a lot better / most importantly a larger diameter than the cheap rc set ?
I haven't had issues with it. Because there u bolt straps they don't appear to be cheap like the r c ones. Also I didn't want anything permanent incase I decided to remove it in the future. That being said I didn't torque it foot pounds lol. Just tight where I couldn't move the mount
 

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Looks like the ticket for me .. def not using the cheap RC Hardware.. The brackets are a1 but the bolts suck
Heads up on my set up the stabilizer shock would bump the pitman arm. It actually dented the shock housing slightly. I fabricated a bracket to drop the angle slightly so it didn't touch "lock to lock"
 

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Heads up on my set up the stabilizer shock would bump the pitman arm. It actually dented the shock housing slightly. I fabricated a bracket to drop the angle slightly so it didn't touch "lock to lock"
Wait.. so you did this on a 2wd also ?? And you have the same 2wd bolt on N3 stabilizer through RC.
PN 8738620.
My shocks body doesn’t even come anywhere near the pitman arm the way the shock bracket mounts to the frame/ gear box bolt angles the bracket and shock to sit level below the pitman arm as seen in my pic .
I mounted the bracket extended out the shock arm 4-4.5” as they they state to do and locked it down on the drag link bracket right next to the engine cradle marked by the Red ❌ near skid plate
Full steer lock left to right should clear that cross member skid.

The shock itself sits below pitman arm 1-1.5” clearance . Nothing moves on that side of the bracket , the shcock body is stationary it’s the strut rod that moves towards ~>> passenger side .
The shock rod moves with the drag link full left steer extends the shock near full open . Full right steer collapses it back to the 4” marker
I am not understanding but tying to on what your saying about hitting
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A97obs

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AFAIK never seen any tech : Notes on obstruction with the pitman arm and shock body.. on any install sheets . Usually mfgr learn of tech issues and throw in the variables .
Did you use a RC kit?
The brackets seem to clear and be made right . I’m gonna have someone full steer for me while I look to see what it’s doing . Haven’t had a 2nd set of eyes for that Today. But this is good to know if something is gonna rub
 

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Wait.. so you did this on a 2wd also ?? And you have the same 2wd bolt on N3 stabilizer through RC.
PN 8738620.
My shocks body doesn’t even come anywhere near the pitman arm the way the shock bracket mounts to the frame/ gear box bolt angles the bracket and shock to sit level below the pitman arm as seen in my pic .
I mounted the bracket extended out the shock arm 4-4.5” as they they state to do and locked it down on the drag link bracket right next to the engine cradle marked by the Red ❌ near skid plate
Full steer lock left to right should clear that cross member skid.

The shock itself sits below pitman arm 1-1.5” clearance . Nothing moves on that side of the bracket , the shcock body is stationary it’s the strut rod that moves towards ~>> passenger side .
The shock rod moves with the drag link full left steer extends the shock near full open . Full right steer collapses it back to the 4” marker
I am not understanding but tying to on what your saying about hitting
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Yeah . I have the rc 4" lift though. As far as the stabilizer goes. I'm not sure why mine would hit. But if yours has plenty of room then you're good.
 

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I am not understanding but tying to on what your saying about hitting
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I'll snap some pictures afterwork. But basically the pitman arm would touch the body of the shock. ( grey part with the rc sticker) act like your doing a u turn and your maxed out steering. Then park it and look underneath. Now it could be something I did but just wanna give you my 2 cents so your don't damage it and not be warned
 

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I'll snap some pictures afterwork. But basically the pitman arm would touch the body of the shock. ( grey part with the rc sticker) act like your doing a u turn and your maxed out steering. Then park it and look underneath. Now it could be something I did but just wanna give you my 2 cents so your don't damage it and not be warned
Yea I’ll look makes sense how it could unless they revised there brackets to clear the shocks later on
 

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I'll snap some pictures afterwork. But basically the pitman arm would touch the body of the shock. ( grey part with the rc sticker) act like your doing a u turn and your maxed out steering. Then park it and look underneath. Now it could be something I did but just wanna give you my 2 cents so your don't damage it and not be warned
I purchased the 1310 Allstar performance u-bolts 2” it looked to end up being the same mfgr of bolt that jegs offered . Next day delivery
I’ll see how the hold up, I would imagine they’re way more structurally made and sturdy, hopefully hardened bolts over the rc brand.
 

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Yea I’ll look makes sense how it could unless they revised there brackets to clear the shocks later on
Yeah it tricked me at first because you can slide your fingers in between. But when you turn, the gap gets a lot narrower. I only noticed because I wanted to make sure the bracket didn't loosen up and noticed dent on my housing body.
 

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I purchased the 1310 Allstar performance u-bolts 2” it looked to end up being the same mfgr of bolt that jegs offered . Next day delivery
I’ll see how the hold up, I would imagine they’re way more structurally made and sturdy, hopefully hardened bolts over the rc brand.
Long as there the same 1-1/4 ID, it should work. That was my take on it. If there designed to hold u joints, then they should be able to hold a bracket that has a lot less force on it.
 
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