LED trailer lights...do i need a converter?

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OffroadZ71

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Long story short...bought a new trailer with led signal lights and they don't work correctly. I have a Hopkins converter but it's a splice in. My question is do they sell a plug in play t connecter "converter" as I don't want to chop up the factory harness if possible. Truck is a 98 z71 with tow package
 

Stumpy

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Etrailer.com is only showing a plug and play for a flat four trailer plug, so if you need the round 7 pin, it would have to be hard wired.
https://www.etrailer.com/t1-1998_Chevrolet_C/K+Series+Pickup.htm

My truck has a hacked in 7 pin, from a previous owner, and when I plug my box trailer in, all the park lights light up on the truck, so I have some issues with mine as well.
 

OffroadZ71

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When I plug the flat 4 to the new trailer flat 4 i get no running lights and the led brake lights barely light as in only 1 diode is illuminating on each light. I have a square body k30 that I put a Hopkins converter on because I'm running trailer lights on the flat bed...when I hook up to the trailer with that truck everything works fine.
 

OffroadZ71

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Basically I think I need a resistor for the trailer lights...I have a led converter box but it's a splice in and I don't want to cut up the factory harness....somebody has to be using a trailer with led signal lights behind one of these trucks
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

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The converter is only needed if you have rear amber turn signals and red brake lights. GMT400's don't.
An LED flasher is only needed if you have LED's on the truck, and your truck hyperflashes.
Sounds like you have a bad ground on the truck's trailer wiring. Seeing as you stated the trailer functions properly on a different truck.
 

Supercharged111

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And between hacking the truck's wiring vs the trailer's, I vote trailer after you verify the truck is good.
 

smokymtn65

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Sounds like bad ground , I have two trailers, all LED they work fine behind all of my rigs except the Camaro
 

thegawd

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I absolutely agree with it being a bad ground. it dosent even matter if the trailer is new either. they are built so fast and S**T happens. like screws penetrating the wire bundles.

I cant ever remember led trailer lights causing any problems except the couple times screws went through the wires... on brand spanking new enclosed trailers. my old company bought 2 new trailers every year. somehow my old boss thought this was cheaper than maintaining a trailer. he would sell them as soon as the cheap Chinese tires starting to go bald. over 5 years that's 10 brand new trailers I worked with and 2 of them had screws right into the wire bundle.

but it honestly sounds like a bad ground. all the led trailer lights Iv worked with didn't need anything special.

when I had a bad ground on my boat trailer I completely and stupidly ripped apart all of my trucks wiring harness that I had soldered up a few years before. I knew it was fine. after doing so everything truck side was actually fine. I got really mad and did something I should have done first. I grabbed a 20 foot wire. self tapped it to my trucks frame and then I took the other end and touched the mounting bolts on the trailer lights, which give it ground. holy S**T everything started working. So I then started looking for where ground was lost by placing the wire on the trailers frame. I found that the axle of the trailer was not electrically connected or grounded to the rest of the trailer. So I took that wire and self tapped it to the front of the trailer and directly to one of the mounting bolts of the lights.

man bad ground will make you do stupid things, at least once in your life before you learn it's a bad ground. the faint lights are your tell tail sign that it is not receiving any ground whatsoever. (I do realize this is an led without a filament so its behavior will be different) electricity will find a way and its grounding itself through the bulb with the other connection for running/turn or brake lights.

Al
 
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