L31

[Hobie]

I'll have to fiddle around, and Rhoads lifters really arent too much more than a set of aftermarket lifters. I havent tuned a whole lot before, so maybe that 846 cam may be the best option to start off with. And if I may ask what do you use as a tuning software?

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I'll have to fiddle around, and Rhoads lifters really arent too much more than a set of aftermarket lifters. I havent tuned a whole lot before, so maybe that 846 cam may be the best option to start off with. And if I may ask what do you use as a tuning software?

TunerCats OBD2 and HP Tuners

The Rhoads lifters are a very high quality fast bleed off lifter.

 

[lumpdog602]

I think you should make a 383 out of it.

I vote for this as well. That is a lot of miles. Mimic the HT383e build.

 

[Hobie]

I vote for this as well. That is a lot of miles. Mimic the HT383e build.

My problem with a 383CI is the fact I still plan on using pump gas, a 355 with a decked block, 64cc heads, and the flat tops I have, I'm looking at 9.5:1 compression, and with the computer tuning i can theoretically run 89 octane without pinging with retarded timing. Now 87 will be out of the question, but I dont want to HAVE to pay the top dollar for 91 octane if I jump to a stroker with higher compression.

 

[Hobie]

Got the engine tore down to the block, crank and cam, forgot to grab my harmonic balancer puller from the house this morning.

Shouldnt have believed the PO when he told me the truck had very regular maintenance, and definitely shouldnt have believed that after I seen the engine with how many oil leaks it had. But all in all, the parts I am looking to use are fine, and can be cleaned up.

Got the upper intake off, and talk about carbon buildup, I completely understand the truck had 300,000+ miles, but this is pretty bad. I'll soak half of it in intake cleaner, and hopefully I'll be able to take a good enough picture after it soaks to do it justice.

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After that, lower intake came off, and to my 'surprise' 1/4" of sludge in the lifter valley and on the lifter spider. Took the tappers off, and more of the same, sludge, sludge, sludge. But like I said, sludge, and carbon can be cleaned up in the hot tank/parts washer.

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Next was the heads, and thanks to the tube and a half of silicone PO used to put the intake on, it was actually quite the pain to pull the heads. But, they came off, and the heads look good, no visible cracks, cylinder 6 had some rust , but it all just wiped off, so I will look into that some more later.

Good news though, there is still some cross hatching left in all 8 cylinders. There is some wear marks in 6 of the cylinders, but nothing a bore cant handle. Pulled the rod caps. And found the knocking culprit. #8 rod folder the lower half of the bearing, and stacked the bearings on the rod half. Ate the crank up, but the mains look to be okay. 6 of the rods were blued, and 4 wrist pins were basically seized in the pistons.

Since pictures arent loading right now, I will post more tomorrow

 

[Schurkey]

Be careful with the solvent, that intake manifold is plastic.

Hydraulic lifters are miniature oil filters. The hole to let oil in is relatively large. The lifter clearance that oil gets out through is microscopic. Debris gets in, can't get out again. Lifters have to be taken apart for cleaning. Or replace them.

When that was me, and the bores were in decent shape to start with, I ran a *********** brush through the cylinders and skipped the rebore. (except the one cylinder that actually needed boring,)

IF you have the cylinders bored, make sure the shop installs a torque plate for the honing,

 

[Hobie]

Be careful with the solvent, that intake manifold is plastic.

Hydraulic lifters are miniature oil filters. The hole to let oil in is relatively large. The lifter clearance that oil gets out through is microscopic. Debris gets in, can't get out again. Lifters have to be taken apart for cleaning. Or replace them.

When that was me, and the bores were in decent shape to start with, I ran a *********** brush through the cylinders and skipped the rebore. (except the one cylinder that actually needed boring,)

IF you have the cylinders bored, make sure the shop installs a torque plate for the honing,

Lifters will be thrown In the trash due to the metal that was introduced to the oil system due to the spun bearing.
The solvent I use is fairly safe, as long as it's not soaking for days at a time, I used it on my current L31, and it didnt eat the plastic, but I always keep an eye on it.

I could easily get away with a dingle berry hone, but I have a set of .030 overbore pistons laying in the shop that I plan on using, so might as well.
Also, the machinist that I will take everything to is an expert at his trade, and I trust him to do the machine work correctly. But I also check the work afterwards, just to be on the safe side.

 

[Hobie]

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[Supercharged111]

So you want to avoid a tune, when the fact remains that it would likely make a bigger impact than dropping coin on a 383 with a stock tune with any octane. . .

 

[b454rat]

These motors are 9.4 compression, why add different pistons? Also, after looking at ur motor pics, can tell that has some miles lol.