Im just about fed up!!

[Supercharged111]

Might I ask why you say that?



Edit: I just noticed the camaros and corvette in your vehicle list so I think I know why you say that now.

Perhaps driving style has something to do with it. . . That said with .5-.7 negative I get very even tire wear.

 

[JWOK]

Perhaps driving style has something to do with it. . . That said with .5-.7 negative I get very even tire wear.

Yeah, negative camber and going fast around corners go hand in hand.

 

[CKVortec]

Caster being different from side to side (split) is what I meant, but they have it backwards from what it needs to be. Having the right side a little higher makes most vehicles track straight on the average road due to road crown (most roads are higher in the center and slope to the ditch which introduces a slight right drift in most vehicles unless they have a slightly higher caster on the passenger side). Combining a higher caster on the left with the average road crown will cause a pull to the right. If it is a hard pull, I would still try swapping front tires side to side and see whether that makes a difference and have the alignment changed. Caster in the 4.5-5.0 range is pretty good as long as the split is favoring the correct side. That is back to the comment I made that most shops really don't know what they are doing with the alignment, they are just adjusting what the computer tells them to do until it gives them a green reading. Unfortunately that only puts you into an "acceptable range" and not necessarily what it needs to be for proper tire wear, tracking, or handling. I would ask them to make sure you have about 1/4 degree positive camber on both sides and the caster on the passenger side needs to be about 1/2 degree higher than the driver side.

It's been a long time since I ran across someone who knew this!
You must be old school too.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

It's been a long time since I ran across someone who knew this!
You must be old school too.

That's alignment 101, your dealing with the wrong folks if this is rare to hear.

 

[JWOK]

It's been a long time since I ran across someone who knew this!
You must be old school too.

Yeah I learned on an old Bear alignment rack if I recall correctly, no computers. If you didn't understand what you were doing, you weren't going to accomplish anything. And we sure didn't send one out the door without it driving properly.

 

[Black98Burb1500]

Its just getting old having to sit there and wait for them to work on it this will be the 4th time atleast its free but still my time isn't im going back in the morning ill put the new print out on here as well as the temps for each wheel.

 

[noabarron3]

I apologize if I am repeating any advice already given but a pull is almost always camber/caster/toe (I do a lot of alignments at my job). I understand that you have already had an alignment, or more than a few.
I'm assuming you are not the original owner...
The rear axle alignment is not adjustable so you can put that to bed but it is worth taking a flashlight and inspecting every inch of the frame for mushrooms or other bends, repairs and welds, or anything generally out of place.
The fact that you have a brand new front end and still have alignment issues is alarming, when a vehicle is in an accident they never align quite right, even if the computer tells you it is.
You may have unknowingly bought a burb with a compromised frame. If you can't find any damage, its worth paying a shop a small fee to inspect your frame/chassis.
There are many elements to inspect before the frame but it seems you have covered all bases.
Nick

 

[Hipster]

I have 3 of them ill post the latest one that wasn't from a hole in the wall like the first 2

You must be registered for see images attach

Somethings not quite right here. The out of spec caster doesn't make sense unless you're asking for that. I'm not liking the difference side to side on the SAI numbers. The turn radius and set back numbers are absent also. The SAI difference can contribute to a pull.

I'm really wondering here if the big caster number is a result to trying to align the good side to the opposite side that may have a bent control arm or bent control arm mounting points, which having a set back number would indicate, or a tweaked knuckle, which can be indicated by SAI and turn radius numbers.

Just to be clear here, a pull is usually constant. Bump steer issues usually calm down a bit with braking force and can be a bit random as the suspension cycles through it's travel up and down. Bump steer issues also can stem from the steering arm part of the knuckle being tweaked as well as ride height alteration throwing steering linkage geometry off .

You have more of the numbers on your sheet than most that post on here but you really need all the numbers when trying to diagnose drivability issues.

 

[Madscientist]

Check the hard lines for your bakes too. Make sure you didnt kink on or hit it durring your motor swap. That will do it too

 

[Hipster]

That's alignment 101, your dealing with the wrong folks if this is rare to hear.

LOL, that is old school. I haven't heard that in a long time either. Common in the days of old dealing with bias-ply's. I don't think too many guys set them up like that anymore