Im just about fed up!!

[CKVortec]

I apologize if I am repeating any advice already given but a pull is almost always camber/caster/toe (I do a lot of alignments at my job).
Nick

This is wrong for a couple of reasons.
#1 Toe being out of adjustment will not cause a pull, only tire wear and an off-center steering wheel.
#2 A pull can often be caused by the tires, uneven pressure or a radial pull.
#3 A pull experienced when the brakes are applied is not likely to be alignment related (I am hesitant to say never, but definitely not in my experience).

 

[noabarron3]

This is wrong for a couple of reasons.
#1 Toe being out of adjustment will not cause a pull, only tire wear and an off-center steering wheel.
#2 A pull can often be caused by the tires, uneven pressure or a radial pull.
#3 A pull experienced when the brakes are applied is not likely to be alignment related (I am hesitant to say never, but definitely not in my experience).

You may have some good info there but a bad toe will most definitely cause a pull. It will kick your tires either out or in laterally and if extreme enough on one side or the other it will absolutely cause a pull. That's a no-brainer! I can say that with certainty as I dealt with a hard right pull on my truck for months before I adjusted the toe and rectified the issue, (camber/caster was fine). I get daily complaints about a pull and it ALMOST NEVER has anything to do with the brakes.
I did not catch that the pull is ONLY when the brakes are applied in this particular situation but it is likely that the braking just exacerbates the issue.
And like I said, "ALMOST" always, it really is almost always a simple adjustment of the Camber/Caster/Toe.
Also, don't go out of your way to say others are wrong especially when you only think you know better.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

You may have some good info there but a bad toe will most definitely cause a pull. It will kick your tires either out or in laterally and if extreme enough on one side or the other it will absolutely cause a pull. That's a no-brainer! I can say that with certainty as I dealt with a hard right pull on my truck for months before I adjusted the toe and rectified the issue, (camber/caster was fine). I get daily complaints about a pull and it ALMOST NEVER has anything to do with the brakes.
I did not catch that the pull is ONLY when the brakes are applied in this particular situation but it is likely that the braking just exacerbates the issue.
And like I said, "ALMOST" always, it really is almost always a simple adjustment of the Camber/Caster/Toe.
Also, don't go out of your way to say others are wrong especially when you only think you know better.

Toe will absolutely not ever ever cause a pull because it equals out while driving. Many folks confuse a pull with the steering wheel being off center and when they center it the car goes one direction or the other, but it's physically impossible for toe in the front to cause a pull. Rear toe can cause a thrust angle and steer the vehicle from the rear because it cannot equal out

 

[Hipster]

I apologize if I am repeating any advice already given but a pull is almost always camber/caster/toe (I do a lot of alignments at my job). I understand that you have already had an alignment, or more than a few.
I'm assuming you are not the original owner...
The rear axle alignment is not adjustable so you can put that to bed but it is worth taking a flashlight and inspecting every inch of the frame for mushrooms or other bends, repairs and welds, or anything generally out of place.
The fact that you have a brand new front end and still have alignment issues is alarming, when a vehicle is in an accident they never align quite right, even if the computer tells you it is.
You may have unknowingly bought a burb with a compromised frame. If you can't find any damage, its worth paying a shop a small fee to inspect your frame/chassis.
There are many elements to inspect before the frame but it seems you have covered all bases.
Nick

You can have caster, camber and toe "within spec" and still have bent parts on the vehicle. Those 3 measurements don't define a proper alignment.

You may have some good info there but a bad toe will most definitely cause a pull. It will kick your tires either out or in laterally and if extreme enough on one side or the other it will absolutely cause a pull. That's a no-brainer! I can say that with certainty as I dealt with a hard right pull on my truck for months before I adjusted the toe and rectified the issue, (camber/caster was fine). I get daily complaints about a pull and it ALMOST NEVER has anything to do with the brakes.
I did not catch that the pull is ONLY when the brakes are applied in this particular situation but it is likely that the braking just exacerbates the issue.
And like I said, "ALMOST" always, it really is almost always a simple adjustment of the Camber/Caster/Toe.
Also, don't go out of your way to say others are wrong especially when you only think you know better.

I believe the op said the pull quits when he brakes. Lots of valid points have been made but he hasn't been back to clarify.

 

[Black98Burb1500]

I apologize if I am repeating any advice already given but a pull is almost always camber/caster/toe (I do a lot of alignments at my job). I understand that you have already had an alignment, or more than a few.
I'm assuming you are not the original owner...
The rear axle alignment is not adjustable so you can put that to bed but it is worth taking a flashlight and inspecting every inch of the frame for mushrooms or other bends, repairs and welds, or anything generally out of place.
The fact that you have a brand new front end and still have alignment issues is alarming, when a vehicle is in an accident they never align quite right, even if the computer tells you it is.
You may have unknowingly bought a burb with a compromised frame. If you can't find any damage, its worth paying a shop a small fee to inspect your frame/chassis.
There are many elements to inspect before the frame but it seems you have covered all bases.
Nick

It drove straight before. Your right i bought it a year ago for $1500 and put well over that in parts alone and days and days of time I've already replaced the motor too. The ride was overly rough I know every person that doesn't know what these trucks feel like say that but I drove another 99 suburban.with the same suspension options and it was a night and day difference from mine so I decided to replace the front suspension hoping to get rid of some of the shaking and the headaches that came with it. It tracked perfect down the road straight as a arrow. You could be right and maybe a alignment shop that knew a thing or 2 got it to drive right after a accident. I haven't seen anything that would make me think that and it had a clean carfax but I doubt that means much. I couldn't leave my truck at the shop today so I go back Friday its been a fiasco so far this has been the hardest part of restoring this suv. Hopefully its not frame damage im in too deep now to give up I would have to change the frame and I need a break atleast a couple months before I have to do any serious work to it. I need to check out the leaf springs and rear suspension so ill go over the frame and see if I find any damage I've worked on just about every square inch so far I just did the body mount bushings and no red flags but I wasn't really looking for damage either. I got a digital thermometer and made sure my brakes weren't really hot on 1 side and they were within 3 degrees of each other so its not brake drag thank God only things left to replace would be master and booster but all is well on the brakes ill figure it out sooner or later or this shop will pull there heads from where the sun dont shine and give me a decent alignment. Ill figure it out first im sure.

 

[Black98Burb1500]

This is wrong for a couple of reasons.
#1 Toe being out of adjustment will not cause a pull, only tire wear and an off-center steering wheel.
#2 A pull can often be caused by the tires, uneven pressure or a radial pull.
#3 A pull experienced when the brakes are applied is not likely to be alignment related (I am hesitant to say never, but definitely not in my experience).

It goe away for the most part when i hit the brakes or atleast decreases atleast 50%.

 

[CKVortec]

It goe away for the most part when i hit the brakes or atleast decreases atleast 50%.

I think you have two issues to deal with, first you need to get it driving straight, but then I think you will have a pull to the left under braking.

First let's get the alignment squared away with slightly lower caster on the left and matching camber or just a tenth of a degree or so higher on the left. also make sure your tire pressures are even before it's aligned.
If the alignment shop can't adjust it as specified you need to ask why. There are "knock-outs" on the upper control arm mounts that need to be removed to allow camber/caster adjustment, have they been removed?

If your truck still doesn't drive straight swap your tires from side to side (pay attention to wind direction and drive on a good road with no ruts or major tilt to one side). This will rule out a radial pull. if your tires are directional you shouldn't leave them like this, they will wear out faster and won't get proper traction in wet conditions!

If you get it driving straight and find that it pulls under braking try the parking brake test that I suggested earlier, pull and hold the release handle and apply the brake lightly, if that causes a change (pulls or stops pulling) it means that one side of the rear brakes is grabbing sooner/harder than the other. This may be fixable by tightening the adjuster on the weak side or loosening the one on the strong side, but you should inspect the rear brakes to rule out leaking seals or other mechanical issues.

If it stops straight using the parking brake but pulls when using the regular brake pedal then you have one front brake grabbing harder than the other or something is shifting in the steering/suspension when you hit the brakes.

I have also seen tires cause a pull under braking, I don't really understand why. Probably similar to a radial pull where all of the radials inside the tire are not the same diameter.

Without putting my assometer in the driver's seat I can't offer much more help.

 

[CKVortec]

Another thought just occurred to me, when you replaced all of the control arms did you tighten the mounting bolts with the suspension loaded at ride height or hanging unloaded?

when you are having your alignment done you could have them loosen all of the bolts and retorque them with the weight of the truck sitting on the tires/suspension.

 

[bluetahoe]

Caster/Camber. Good info from ASE. Not toe. I suspect others have said breaks, bearings, tire inflation, etc.


https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/steering-steady-pull.html


ONe thing to check on are the rear brakes if it happens while braking.
I have a pull to one side or the other while braking pulling a heavy trailer if the rear brakes aren't equally set up.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

Without putting my assometer in the driver's seat I can't offer much more help.

Yep a pull is one of those things you need to experience to narrow it down. Every source feels just a little different and those of us with experience can narrow the cause fairly quick on a test drive, but talking about it on a message board the sky is the limit on what it "could" be.