Im just about fed up!!

[JWOK]

I should add that 1/2 (one half) degree higher caster reading on the passenger side is a starting point and may need to be adjusted to make it drive straight. That was where I always started and most often worked out pretty well. Obviously you do not want it pulling to the left either.

 

[Supercharged111]

Caster being different from side to side (split) is what I meant, but they have it backwards from what it needs to be. Having the right side a little higher makes most vehicles track straight on the average road due to road crown (most roads are higher in the center and slope to the ditch which introduces a slight right drift in most vehicles unless they have a slightly higher caster on the passenger side). Combining a higher caster on the left with the average road crown will cause a pull to the right. If it is a hard pull, I would still try swapping front tires side to side and see whether that makes a difference and have the alignment changed. Caster in the 4.5-5.0 range is pretty good as long as the split is favoring the correct side. That is back to the comment I made that most shops really don't know what they are doing with the alignment, they are just adjusting what the computer tells them to do until it gives them a green reading. Unfortunately that only puts you into an "acceptable range" and not necessarily what it needs to be for proper tire wear, tracking, or handling. I would ask them to make sure you have about 1/4 degree positive camber on both sides and the caster on the passenger side needs to be about 1/2 degree higher than the driver side.

I was with you until positive camber. Positive camber has no place on my trucks or cars or anything.

 

[JWOK]

I was with you until positive camber. Positive camber has no place on my trucks or cars or anything.

Might I ask why you say that?



Edit: I just noticed the camaros and corvette in your vehicle list so I think I know why you say that now.

 

[thinger2]

What everybody else said plus, one way to pin point the problem is to get a laser thermometer, take it for a drive untill everything is heated up and look for temp differences at each hub.
If one side of front or rear is much hotter than the other, thats where to look for a brake dragging.
Look not only for temp difference, but also for temp drop between the two sides over time.
Get a reading off of everything, rims brake lines calipers front of drum back of drum with the brake set etc..
Try to find a good 4x4 offroad speciality shop that also does alignments. If you dont have one around that does, contact them anyway and see who they recommend.
I would also see if you have any local 4x4 clubs. Even if you arent into offroading, car club folks will usually go above and beyond to help.
Keep in mind, the kid at the tire store looks at your truck and has no friggen idea how to deal with it.
They average "alignment tech" at most shops has about 3 days of training and just graduated from oil changing.
Good luck,

 

[Black98Burb1500]

good information already posted here, but wait... there's more!
if you have a pull under braking it could easily be from your rear brakes.
to test this take the front brakes out of the equation, when driving in a safe area/location pull the parking brake release and hold it so that the parking brake will not lock and lightly push the pedal. This will apply only the rear brakes and if your truck pulls... fix or readjust the rear brakes.
Just be aware that if your parking brake cables are in poor condition they may not release properly and you could end up with burned up/warped rear brakes unless you do something about it.
As stated above, the master cylinder won't cause a pull and neither will the brake booster that you hear hissing under the dash.
if your truck goes straight until you hit the brakes it is either one brake is not grabbing as it should (front or rear) or something is shifting in the steering/suspension when you hit the brakes. Since you replaced so much it's not likely to be front end parts.
Post up the before and after numbers from your alignment printout, if you didn't get one when you had the alignment done you got ripped off.

It pulls until I hit the brakes when there applied all is well

 

[Black98Burb1500]

What everybody else said plus, one way to pin point the problem is to get a laser thermometer, take it for a drive untill everything is heated up and look for temp differences at each hub.
If one side of front or rear is much hotter than the other, thats where to look for a brake dragging.
Look not only for temp difference, but also for temp drop between the two sides over time.
Get a reading off of everything, rims brake lines calipers front of drum back of drum with the brake set etc..
Try to find a good 4x4 offroad speciality shop that also does alignments. If you dont have one around that does, contact them anyway and see who they recommend.
I would also see if you have any local 4x4 clubs. Even if you arent into offroading, car club folks will usually go above and beyond to help.
Keep in mind, the kid at the tire store looks at your truck and has no friggen idea how to deal with it.
They average "alignment tech" at most shops has about 3 days of training and just graduated from oil changing.
Good luck,

I had no idea the techs must have transferred from auto zone then. I figured they would be half way knowledgeable about there trade but not suprised at all.. I will definitely look into the 4x4 club we do have a couple 4x4 shops in town I used to take my ram charger there when I didn't own a wrench in high school. Thanks for the advice im gonna check my rears and see how there doing they were all replaced right before the motor swap but easily could need some attention. And I just got a digital thermometer needed one for awhile so im going take it out tonight and check Temps thank you all for the wisdom I have a lot more outlets to find the problem now. I just read they want a new proportioning valve put on these burbs that makes it 80/20 not 85/15 but I don't know how truthful that is ill cross that bridge when I get there I have a busy night ahead of me now thanks again everyone. I'll get back once I pinpoint it or fail completely hopefully the first one.

 

[Black98Burb1500]

good information already posted here, but wait... there's more!
if you have a pull under braking it could easily be from your rear brakes.
to test this take the front brakes out of the equation, when driving in a safe area/location pull the parking brake release and hold it so that the parking brake will not lock and lightly push the pedal. This will apply only the rear brakes and if your truck pulls... fix or readjust the rear brakes.
Just be aware that if your parking brake cables are in poor condition they may not release properly and you could end up with burned up/warped rear brakes unless you do something about it.
As stated above, the master cylinder won't cause a pull and neither will the brake booster that you hear hissing under the dash.
if your truck goes straight until you hit the brakes it is either one brake is not grabbing as it should (front or rear) or something is shifting in the steering/suspension when you hit the brakes. Since you replaced so much it's not likely to be front end parts.
Post up the before and after numbers from your alignment printout, if you didn't get one when you had the alignment done you got ripped off.

I have 3 of them ill post the latest one that wasn't from a hole in the wall like the first 2

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Black98Burb1500]

This was after 2 failed attempts by the first shop they were closest to my house after the rebuild they had my upper control arm bolts torqued under 70 ft lbs I won't let them even look at my truck again unless im flying by there shop

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

Oh **** dude, taking it to Ramona Tire is about as helpful as letting a preschooler set the alignment. I wouldn't trust those are the real numbers. It was common practice for the Ramona/Firestone guys to "adjust" the sensors to get the readings where they want them and give the customer a good readout.

Only shop I know well enough out there anymore is in Costa Mesa. Not cheap but they would definitely not leave you wondering what's wrong.

 

[JWOK]

If those initial numbers are accurate then you have another issue beside the alignment. The initial numbers were way out of spec, but the caster was 1.2 degrees higher on the right which should have given you a left pull, or at least drift. They may not be accurate, or you may still be chasing the issue after the alignment. Swap sides with your front tires before an alignment and let us know how the brake temps look.

These kind of alignment numbers are why I always give the alignment guy the exact spec I want it set to instead of leaving it up to them deciding whether it is in the "acceptable range".