HVAC box removal

[SUBURBAN5]

You’d have to cut so much out that it wouldn’t go back in.

That's what I figured just didnt know exactly how much.

 

[someotherguy]

The box extends quite literally from the passenger kick panel to right up next to the steering column support/gauge cluster area.

Plus, there's several bundles of wiring running around in there that you would risk cutting through.

Just in case the sawzall idea was a serious question.

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Richard

 

[Insert Quarter]

On mine, '89 C2500, a couple of the fasteners on the back of the HVAC box that attach it to the firewall are studs off the HVAC box with a nut on the firewall side so it has to come away from the firewall a bit to clear the studs before it could be dropped down.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

The box extends quite literally from the passenger kick panel to right up next to the steering column support/gauge cluster area.

Plus, there's several bundles of wiring running around in there that you would risk cutting through.

Just in case the sawzall idea was a serious question.

You must be registered for see images attach

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Richard

Thanks for the info lol. And it was. I've been trying to figure out a custom dash that is easy to remove to take apart to access certain things like hvac for example lol. But I figure whole dash has to come out for that.

 

[mars2878]

In case you didn't know, not all yards use car-part.com.
Car-part.com typically caters to full-service yards.
If looking for a self-serve yard, try row52.com . Again, not all yards use it.
Also, none of the parts are inventoried. Typically there is an arrival pic, engine size, vin #, body color.
Word of wisdom, dont search by model, you'll be forever & a day looking up ea Chevy truck model. Just look up Chevrolet or GMC & scroll through.
There's even been times when a c1500 is listed on the site as a Silverado or Silverado 1500. Which means 2 additional searches by model just to make sure that you didn't miss anything.

 

[smdk2500]

Yeah so my worst fear happened. When I rotated the dash out it pretty much exploded. So I guess ill finish pulling the HVAC box and try piecing it back together when I get back to that point.

 

[Nickpisp]

Yeah so my worst fear happened. When I rotated the dash out it pretty much exploded. So I guess ill finish pulling the HVAC box and try piecing it back together when I get back to that point.

Same thing happened to mine, they’re brittle as hell.

 

[Bone Shaker]

I am sorry for what you are going through. I pulled my dash this summer to replace a leaking evaporator core. It was bad Day and 1/2 job for me but, I got it and a c working great. Just take your time take lots of pictures and don’t fool yourself into thinking you will remember cause you won’t. Good luck

 

[smdk2500]

I am sorry for what you are going through. I pulled my dash this summer to replace a leaking evaporator core. It was bad Day and 1/2 job for me but, I got it and a c working great. Just take your time take lots of pictures and don’t fool yourself into thinking you will remember cause you won’t. Good luck

Well I got it done as best as possible. Got it all back together now the motor for the doors quit working. I don't know if its the motor or the control panel.

 

[east302]

This is the actuator by the gas pedal, right? Check that the linkages and springs are all there.

There’s a notched dial on the actuator that will rotate as the position is changed. If it doesn’t turn at all or is twitchy, pull the connector and there should be three wires going to it. Brown is battery, black for ground and the third is the signal from the control panel.

Use a meter to check for voltage at the signal wire while turning the control panel dial to verify that the panel is doing its job. Voltage should change smoothly, not jumping around. If it’s smooth, confirm that you get voltage on the brown battery wire and that the ground is good. If that checks out and the actuator isn’t turning, I’d swap the actuator.

Temperature actuator functions the same way.