How would you fix this crack?

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Erik the Awful

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Personally, I use an older Miller 211 - switchable between 110v and 220v. I have 220 in my garage, but if I need to drag it over to my buddy's house, he only has 110v. There are a handful of welders out there that can work on both, and for a hobbyist, that's what I'd target.
 

stutaeng

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The Hobart Handler 140 always gets good reviews for a beginner machine. For a given amperage, flux core is always going to be a hotter process than "MIG", so consider flux-core for better penetration with limited power. Practice, practice, practice!

What I've always done (since I'm just a hobbyist!) is get me some scraps and practice at the beginning of a project. Once the weld profile looks ok, weld as large 6' angle to another at 90 degrees. Do a weld and crank on it until it breaks. You want the BASE metal to deform/yield/fracture, not the weld.

I learned welding on a Ironman 210 with flux core. I've done a little mig, but for structural projects I still prefer flux-core. I also learned stick on a Miller Thunderbolt AC machine. I've since "upgraded" to a Lincoln Idealarc AC/DC.

As far as your condition, I think I would try to hammer that back so the surface across is pretty close to being flush. Grind both sides. Tack a 3/16 plate on the bottom to act as a backing plate and try to do the weld from the top surface. Remove backing plate, and if necessary do another pass in the underside.

Good luck!
 

Hipster

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Another vote for the Miller 211 Autoset. They have a 140 Autoset that nice as well. No name welders you can't always get service parts for. The autosets, you pick the wire your running, the metal thickness , and pull the trigger.

You'll find a Miller in almost every bodyshop.
 

Supercharged111

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I borrowed both a 120V Lincoln and a 220V Lincoln, the 220 was easier to use so I bought a Lincoln 180HD and installed a 220 in my garage and built a 25ft extension cord. The 10# roll of flux core I bought in 2012 has yet to run out, I told myself when it does I'll buy gas and go MIG.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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I don't have any 220, so that's not an option
If you have 2 different 120V circuits with their breakers on different legs in the panel, you have 220V. I had a shaper that ran on 220V and our old house didn't have an outlet so, I made 2 pigtails with 120V plugs and wired them together in a 220V socket, didn't use the neutral wires, worked great for a TEMPORARY trial. I just wanted to make sure the shaper worked. I'm just saying, I'm not suggesting, ha ha. YMMV
 

thegawd

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It's so simple to add a correct dedicated circuit for both a 110v 20A circuit or for the 220V. You just need the right wires, the right plugs the right circuit breakers and of course space in the panel for the circuit breakers.

My garage has a big panel and only 5 of them were used if that.... 25 more possible circuits... LMAO.

if your getting a welder, may as well set it up right. I can remember my Dad building a temp Circuit just like PlayingWithTBI described some repair work could be done on our old 1980 Malibu. It absolutely got the job done. Iv also seen my Dad working on live electrical wires standing on a wooden chair as his safety. LMAO. balls of steel. I'll just turn the circuit breaker off, thanks LMAO.

Al
 
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PlayingWithTBI

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It's so simple to add a correct dedicated circuit for both a 110v 20A circuit or for the 220V. You just need the right wires, the right plugs the right circuit breakers and of course space in the panel for the circuit breakers.
I agree, if you don't have a finished garage and the panel is near it, ha ha. I have 2 - 50A 220V circuits in my shop, one for the welder (I have a 50' extension cord for it) and the other for the air compressor. You need 8 Awg wire for those. :waytogo:
 

Erik the Awful

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If you have 2 different 120V circuits with their breakers on different legs in the panel, you have 220V.
If your garage isn't detached from the house with two bare wires running to it like my buddy's garage.

True story, the previous tenant ran an unlicensed bar out of the garage.
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