I can't safely crack open the bezel, your advice, how can I recalibrate the gas gauge needle?

[95Noobie]

Gas gauge needle is just above half full when tank is empty. When tank is full the needle is several 'tick marks' above full. It stays above till at least 1/4 tank used up and then starts moving.

I bought another cluster (my original was quite scratched) This one is in pretty good shape and the needle did the exact same thing on the new cluster.

Considered cracking the glue, opening bezel and readjusting position of the needle. However working on the old cluster cracking the glue also cracks the plastic (is there a method to do this?) Would it be as simple as moving the needle on the gauge to get it to show E when tank is empty (not so worried where it shows when the tank is full)?

I think I read on the forum that if there is a dead short to purple wire going to the gauge then tank shows empty, so if my situation is opposite that it is showing MORE THAN full, then do I have EXTRA resistance on the wire? If it was too low of resistance I could wire in a resistor but if it is extra resistance then I'm not sure how to track that down.

Really hope to not have to drop the tank as everything is very rusted. I did replace the fuel filter (and used fuel line repair kits to remove the rubber hose patches the last owner used and get the pipes back to metal again)

Thanks!

 

[fancyTBI]

Sounds like it’s a wiring issue and not a gauge issue. If you can’t crack it open to adjust the needle (I wouldn’t do this anyways) then your other option is to repair the wiring or inspect your float.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Sounds like it could be a bad sensor in the tank or as fancy said the float arm has gotten bent. The fact that it moves at all means the wire is not shorted. A direct short would push the needle to empty and an open circuit would push it to full. A connection in the wire that is only partially connected could cause an issue like you describe. May be a good idea to chase that purple wire through all the connectors and check for a corroded terminal.

 

[Hipster]

Likely aftermarket float/sender or tweaked float arm during pump install. I normally remove left side bed bolts, disconnect fuel filler neck , loosen right side bed bolts, and tilt bed up to get in there providing there's no tool box or cap. Rusty bed bolts may be an issue. I replaced sender and had the same results as you're having, stayed on full forever and 1/4 tank was bone dry.

 

[someotherguy]

And just as an FYI the bezel isn't glued on with any of the GMT400 clusters. On a 1995-up there are 3 tabs to release the lens.

Richard

 

[95Noobie]

my bezel is a 1995 and I see no tabs, the top layer of plastic is glued all the way around on both of my bezels that I have on hand. I can look again but how I wish there was simply tabs to release. Maybe someone can double check or educate me or point me to a picture of someone with their bezel front open? I don't mind moving the needle to a new position if that gets me a little more accuracy when it gets near empty.

As for bad sender or bent fuel arm, that would require lifting bed or dropping tank. Both sound awful. I read several of the posts here where folks replaced sender and had same results which makes me hesitant to do that work. My bed bolts are very rusted and I would have to plan to probably cut them out (torch and gas doesn't sound safe) I think i would have better success cutting straps and dropping tank but would do that last since my fuel pump is working. I'm not sure I can even touch the connectors on the pump without creating more room some how. I think I can find the ground wire on the frame rail close to the tank and check/loosen/retighten by feel only.

But I agree it seems it isn't a short or a complete ground out as mentioned above.

Hipster so did you find how to get the gauge working or you just chose to live with it or use the trip odometer to refill?

 

[someotherguy]

my bezel is a 1995 and I see no tabs, the top layer of plastic is glued all the way around on both of my bezels that I have on hand. I can look again but how I wish there was simply tabs to release. Maybe someone can double check or educate me or point me to a picture of someone with their bezel front open?

You must be registered for see images attach

Richard

 

[l1lartur0]

Have a '97 and they're tabs on mine, at least. Pulled my cluster to fix a "dance happy" fuel gauge. Wondering if perhaps the previous owner of your cluster glued the plastic cover on?

Just in case you end up needing to fix the fuel gauge, this is the vid that I used to guide me through the process:

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[glock20]

my bezel is a 1995 and I see no tabs, the top layer of plastic is glued all the way around on both of my bezels that I have on hand. I can look again but how I wish there was simply tabs to release. Maybe someone can double check or educate me or point me to a picture of someone with their bezel front open? I don't mind moving the needle to a new position if that gets me a little more accuracy when it gets near empty.

sending unit

As for bad sender or bent fuel arm, that would require lifting bed or dropping tank.

what's awful about it? run the truck til its on E and then go home and drop the tank. it's a pretty basic task. order new straps and hardware ahead of time

 

[95Noobie]

Thanks for the pictures. I'll watch the video. If the needle is fairly accurate and when it gets to 'half-tank' it really is time to fill up we may settle for that until the fuel pump dies and we have to pull the tank. However if I get the bezel open, it would be OK to take the needle (when tank is full) and adjust the tip to point full rather than way past full?