How would you fix this crack?

[RichLo]

This is a great 'starter' setup. If you can lay a functional bead with oxy/acet you can weld with anything.

Start with difficult so when you step down to easy you already know all of the fundamentals

And with this setup, for the same price as a middle of the road MIG you can weld, cut, heat, bend, torch, etc without the limitations of cord lengths

 

[kenh]

Talking about welders....I just purchased a Yes welder. The DS205. MIG,TIG (not aluminum) and stick. 60% duty cycle. 20% off right now. You do need to buy the TIG torch and gas regulator separate though. Just got it so can't really comment on usability. Did buy a spool of wire with the order just because

MIG-205DS-B Multi-Process MIG Aluminum Welder

YesWelder MIG-205DS Multi-Process Welder has a wide application with Synergic Controlled MIG function, easy and simple operation. 4 Functions in 1 of Gas MIG /Gasless MIG / Lift TIG / Stick. Designed for industrial and home/hobby use.

yeswelder.com

and a review

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[WillieWeed]

i have to say this, welding inside the wheels is a real bad idea. i know that a court will hold you responsible for that welding as well. with that said plates and bolts are the route you need to take, that frame is heat treated. that means when you reheat it the origal heat treatment is gone, weakening the whole area where your crack was welded. new cracks will soon show up or the frame could split in half. that frame is designed to have movement it will twist and flex naturally. i have shorten and stretched all sorts truck frames, law suits are the biggest fears. plates and high grade bolts are simple and easy to do. which ever you choice to do drill a hole where the crack stopped, i would start the drill just above the crack so that hole will come to the crack. take this in mind a weld is solid, that frame is made to flex. i speak from years experience in fabrication, even in the truck body world during layoffs. oh i have seen 8 of these trucks with split(in half) frames just from heavy loads. your not on solid ground even before the crack.

 

[Supercharged111]

i have to say this, welding inside the wheels is a real bad idea. i know that a court will hold you responsible for that welding as well. with that said plates and bolts are the route you need to take, that frame is heat treated. that means when you reheat it the origal heat treatment is gone, weakening the whole area where your crack was welded. new cracks will soon show up or the frame could split in half. that frame is designed to have movement it will twist and flex naturally. i have shorten and stretched all sorts truck frames, law suits are the biggest fears. plates and high grade bolts are simple and easy to do. which ever you choice to do drill a hole where the crack stopped, i would start the drill just above the crack so that hole will come to the crack. take this in mind a weld is solid, that frame is made to flex. i speak from years experience in fabrication, even in the truck body world during layoffs. oh i have seen 8 of these trucks with split(in half) frames just from heavy loads. your not on solid ground even before the crack.

I really doubt, if he wrecks his truck, that it'll come to court and that they'd pick his old truck apart to that extent.

 

[WillieWeed]

that could be true, but if it sold and then sold again and so on, it can come back. if the frame causes a wreck he will be liable. like i said that frame is not much to start with, you take the heat treartment out of the equistion you are just asking for trouble. i personally wouldn`t worry about the laws near as much as i would the safety of the others who ride in my truck.

 

[thinger2]

That look really bad. You have to get it down to clean shinny metal before it can be welded. As mention, you can weld over rust, buy also dirt, and paint. Drill a hole above the crack on the top side. Grind out the crack, weld it up, than add a doubler plate or angle iron ext. And weld that too. This is really not a job for a novice welder. A good welder can do a proper repair that will last.

Yep. We once got called onto a job at the Hostess Ding **** factory.
All of the beams and columns were coated in decades of sugar goo, dust and dirt, and rat turds.
The in house guys tried to stick that **** and lit it onfire several times before we got the job.
Rod stubs sticking out like a procupine and smoldering rat turd sugar.
That was the number 2 nastiest job I was ever on.

 

[kennythewelder]

Yes, I know all about that sugar goo. We build donut glazers from scratch out of 316 stainless steel, for many local donut shops. We also rebuild quite a few. Some of them come back a little clean, but many come back very nasty. Donut people for the most part, are not mechanically inclined. When I was working offshore, we would have to fool with sewer lines from time to time, but the worst if it all was the grease trap in the gally. Old food grease smells worst that human waste as hard is that is to believe.

 

[df2x4]

Old food grease smells worst that human waste as hard is that is to believe.

As a former line cook, I can absolutely confirm this. Restaurant grease traps are horrific.

 

[Erik the Awful]

As a former slave to the clown (McDonald's employee), clean those grease traps every night and it's not as terrible.

 

[Hipster]

i have to say this, welding inside the wheels is a real bad idea. i know that a court will hold you responsible for that welding as well. with that said plates and bolts are the route you need to take, that frame is heat treated. that means when you reheat it the origal heat treatment is gone, weakening the whole area where your crack was welded. new cracks will soon show up or the frame could split in half. that frame is designed to have movement it will twist and flex naturally. i have shorten and stretched all sorts truck frames, law suits are the biggest fears. plates and high grade bolts are simple and easy to do. which ever you choice to do drill a hole where the crack stopped, i would start the drill just above the crack so that hole will come to the crack. take this in mind a weld is solid, that frame is made to flex. i speak from years experience in fabrication, even in the truck body world during layoffs. oh i have seen 8 of these trucks with split(in half) frames just from heavy loads. your not on solid ground even before the crack.

I totally get what your saying about liability but nothing on a Gmt 400 frame is heat treated. Mild steel. It's later model stuff you have to worry about different alloys such as HSS, SHSS and Hydro-formed frame sections. I'm not so sure those are considered heat treated either but there are very specific guidelines on where and how to repair those type of frames. Unless your doing a tail section at the factory joints most times you throw those later model frames away.