Hi/Lo beam situation

[Leeztruk]

So, after owning/driving my '89 Cheyenne for a couple of years, last Friday was the first time to drive it at night. Went to use the high beams, and got nothing but a wiggly shaft (doncha just hate that?). Got under the dash to take a peek, and found the actuator rod not engaged in the dimmer switch. Not good. Tried to manually operate the switch and found it to be really stiff, but it did work. Located the rod which was laying atop the switch, then operated the wand and got no movement from the rod. NOT GOOD! Looks like I gotta take the column apart and redo the operating mechanisms and find what's broken. Found a couple of U-tube videos on this procedure and it looks pretty fiddly. Service manual is NO help. Anyone "been there-done that" that could share some thoughts on this endevour? Thanks

 

[Erik the Awful]

Looks like I gotta take the column apart and redo the operating mechanisms and find what's broken. Found a couple of U-tube videos on this procedure and it looks pretty fiddly. Service manual is NO help. Anyone "been there-done that" that could share some thoughts on this endevour? Thanks

Back in the '80s-90s there were shops that did nothing but rebuild GM columns because they were such a pain in the butt and so commonly bad. You'd take your vehicle in to your favorite shop for a column problem and they'd pull the column and swap it out for a rebuilt for a few hundo. It's absolutely fiddly and stupid. Order every replaceable part and swap it all while you're in there. Been there, done that. If your column is loose and wiggly, you can tear it down even further and replace the bearing down in there. Haven't been there yet, but my son's truck needs it.

Buy quality parts. If you buy GM, know that GM has "tiers" that include bad chinesium. Supposedly "AC Delco" includes cheapskate suppliers, but "GM Genuine" is real deal stuff. Standard Motor Products is pretty good, and they're usually my go-to.

Turn signal switch
Wiper switch
Ignition switch
Horn contact slip ring
Horn contact button

I think that's all, but expect to spend around $150 and several hours. You'll also need a steering wheel remover and a steering column spring plate compressor. They're about $20 each at the auto parts store.

 

[Leeztruk]

Yeah, got the tools to get inside the column. And yeah, have ordered the parts you've mentioned already. I too, use Std. and GM stuff. Was a GM Tech for many years, but mainly the Pontiac/Buick line. Not looking fwd. to this repair as it's getting too cold for these old fingers. And, because I don't do much night driving because of my eyes, may hold off till spring, or let the next owner worry about it. Not a good attitude to have I suppose, but, I gotta be realistic here. Anyways, thanks for the input.

 

[someotherguy]

Is the tilt knuckle floppy/loose? May be why the high/low rod has popped out of the switch.

I really don't find those old columns all that unreliable; in my experience the reason for the column rebuilding services was because the massive amount of theft when these vehicles were still fairly new. Asshats breaking columns left and right, requiring hard part replacement to get them back in shape. And yeah, that type of work was definitely more complex than the average Joe was willing to commit to.

Richard

 

[Leeztruk]

Don't know the trucks' history, but someone has been in the column before. The key buzzer doesn't work, and the tilt lever was less than finger tight. The column tilt itself is tight. I did notice when removing the horn pad, the horn grounding wire had been broken out of its' twistlock retainer. Who knows what has gone before

 

[Schurkey]

Go to a Treasure Yard, grab a decent steering column? Replace the entire thing with one that's still usable.

 

[Leeztruk]

Well, looks like I'll be following Mr. Shurkey's advice. The rod I thought was the dimmer rod is actually the ign. switch rod (that's why it didn't move when I moved the wand on the column). The dimmer rod is missing. Also, there are other missing pieces inside the column. When all the costs of the missing pieces, and replacement pieces are added up, it's less expensive to find a used column. U-pull-it yards are slim to none in CT, so I gotta rely on finding a column and the older trucks are getting harder to find. I have located a couple of columns that are in the neighboring state of Mass. which isn't too far away (less than 60 miles), so I'll be on the phone on Monday with a rode trip shortly thereafter

 

[1owner1990]

I removed mine and rebuilt on the bench. I wouldn't atempt it any other way. It's a tedious job, but you can do it. Be very careful not to break the white 'key in' buzzer switch, like I did - was next to impossible finding a new one (can't figure why, as they built... millions?? of these columns). Routing cruise cable installing and the sector preload spring & gear were the most irritating parts do deal with. Take lots of pictures as you go. You got this.

 

[Leeztruk]

Well, I purchased a replacement column, from a '93 Suburban. I need to remove the shift lever, because, I assume, the spring for the shift lever is broken. The lever is really loose, which is a symptom of a broken spring. Got one on order. When I take the lever out, I should replace the bushing that the pivot pin passes through, but I can't find one, or, if they're even available. Does anyone know? I've searched, but come up empty. Thanks

 

[someotherguy]

Sonofa.. I just looked at the factory manual page for the column parts and I don't see a bushing listed. Then again they show the entire column breakdown EXCEPT FOR the shift lever, pin, and.. bushing? Beats me man..

Richard