GM 4L80E Filter Replacement - In Middle of Job

[Erik the Awful]

I didn't catch that it was the reusable-style gasket. In my head I was picturing the old paper gaskets.

 

[Westieterrier]

Great advice Gentlement! I took it all to heart and removed the old seal and will use the new gasket. I carefully used the chisel method described above and it came out, but I managed to put a few nicks on the front of the boss (not inside). It need a real careful touch, which I do not quite have. I used a small hobby file to take off just the sharp edges of the couple of nicks I made. The seal went in just fine and sits perfectly flush (see pics). The new filter is exactly the same as the old one, and is even made by the same company in the USA.

Great video on flushing and will be something I'll consider down the road. Man, these transmissions are expensive to replace if one had to do it!

I'm gonna wait until my new magnetic drain plug comes in early next week to button it all up. Until then, I guess I'll put a battery in my '66 Elky and actually drive it to work. Woe is me . . . .

Thanks all! P

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[0xDEADBEEF]

FWIW, I never replace that seal anymore. Went through this once and decided to never do it again. Never had an issue from leaving the old one in.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Great advice Gentlement! I took it all to heart and removed the old seal and will use the new gasket. I carefully used the chisel method described above and it came out, but I managed to put a few nicks on the front of the boss (not inside). It need a real careful touch, which I do not quite have. I used a small hobby file to take off just the sharp edges of the couple of nicks I made. The seal went in just fine and sits perfectly flush (see pics). The new filter is exactly the same as the old one, and is even made by the same company in the USA.

Great video on flushing and will be something I'll consider down the road. Man, these transmissions are expensive to replace if one had to do it!

I'm gonna wait until my new magnetic drain plug comes in early next week to button it all up. Until then, I guess I'll put a battery in my '66 Elky and actually drive it to work. Woe is me . . . .

Thanks all! P

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what happened to the bore!?

 

[stutaeng]

Yes, the original thick gasket seems to work well for me. That's the only one I've used on my trucks. It has some metal inserts on the bolt holes.

The filter I've bought from AAP comes with the thin rubber version. I've got 2 of them. And the master overhaul rebuild kit from Whatever It Takes had the cork gasket. Not sure why even have those, now that I think about it.

 

[Westieterrier]

Hi AG, the three (3) pictures are all of the boss/bore: 1st is what it looked like after I chiseled out the seal (with nicks on the flat surface facing straight down); 2nd is after a little careful filing with a hobby file to take off any sharp edges from said nicks; third is with the seal placed into the bore and it seats and fits perfectly. The filter neck is plastic and just snaps into the bore/seal, so I imagine it isn't under the highest pressure, though I don't know what psi. Looks like it'll be fine. I'll take the advice here and not replace the seal again when I do this in, say, another 50K. Will put the reusable robust new gasket and leave that in forever. Hoping to take her to 300K and am quite impressed with the build quality of these trucks. It was fairly well maintained previously, and will be even moreso under my ownership.

It's great to see a woman-enthusiast on this forum, and my apologies for starting every post I submit with the salutation "Gentlemen." I'll not do that again! P

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[Pinger]

Great video on flushing and will be something I'll consider down the road. Man, these transmissions are expensive to replace if one had to do it!

Why not now? It isn't difficult - merely a case of detaching a cooler line. Easiest way is to do the fluid change as per normal (including filling the pan) then detaching the cooler line, starting the engine and letting the fresh oil that's just been put in push the old oil out of the TC and the TC be filled with the fresh. It will stop flowing when the pan is empty. Refit cooler line and re-fill pan and that's a complete (not just half) fluid change done.

 

[Caman96]

Why not now? It isn't difficult - merely a case of detaching a cooler line. Easiest way is to do the fluid change as per normal (including filling the pan) then detaching the cooler line, starting the engine and letting the fresh oil that's just been put in push the old oil out of the TC and the TC be filled with the fresh. It will stop flowing when the pan is empty. Refit cooler line and re-fill pan and that's a complete (not just half) fluid change done.

Totally agree, now is the time and it’s very easy and safe to do.

 

[Pinger]

Totally agree, now is the time and it’s very easy and safe to do.

And if anyone remembers how many pages Schurkey and I thrashed this out last year, to reduce it to one paragraph is a sign of just how easy it is to do.

 

[Westieterrier]

Which of the two (2) cooler lines? So the engine at idle will flow fluid through the TC? Is it possibly damaging to the trans to have the fluid run through the cooling line OUT of the system until its empty? I do have two gallons of Dextron. I may need three, actually. Yes? I'm just worried about destroying the second most expensive (and arguably most complex) component on this amazing truck. I'm not worried at all about the "old wives tales" (rumors) that new fluid will ruin an old trans. Just concerned about this process. Thanks guys, I REALLY appreciate it. P