GM 4L80E Filter Replacement - In Middle of Job

[Pinger]

You're saying a person DOES NOT have to worry about pumping out all the ATF with the truck idling?

As per Caman 96's post - just shut it down as soon as the flow becomes irregular.

I would have thought it would be like power steering where you don't want the pump to run dry.

Well I tried to flush/change oil on my power steering without the pump running dry - there is no way currently known to mankind to refill the reservoir fast enough!

Thing is though, it's not actually running dry - it's merely unable to access enough fluid to maintain pumping and pressure. For that brief moment, the pump is still wet with oil and thus lubricated.

 

[Pinger]

Consider a mightyvac. I stick it down on the dipstick tube and suck out 1 gallon and then replace. Drive it a couple a weeks and repeat until fluid looks good. It's not the most efficient or cost-effective procedure, but it's super simple, low-risk, and you don't get dirty.

I used my Pela suction tool which has its own reservoir the pulled oil goes into and is calibrated making it easy to see how much came out. Sometimes good to know how much was in there before.
And as you say, clean and saves disturbing the drain plug.

 

[Supercharged111]

I'm another proponent of purging the fluid by yanking the return line, done it to multiple vehicles and never caused a problem. Also the only way that the fluid gets clean and stays clean.

 

[Caman96]

This is my power steering fluid change tool. Hand soap dispenser with longer tube. Another non-invasive way to remove fluid from reservoir. I pump out most, leave a little at bottom, refill and drive a bit, then repeat. About 4-5 times and fluid is all clear. It also worked great on removing brake fluid from master cylinder when I changed my brake fluid last week.

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I also used it to add fluids to front differential and transfer case after draining fluids last summer. Yes, I clean in between different fluids!

 

[Caman96]

I also added a deeper transmission pan that holds about 1 qt. more. It also gave me a drain plug, so about every 12k I drain pan and refill. Keeps fresh fluid cycled in. Might as well throw the Corvette Servo in too, although I’m not familiar with 4L80E and if that is even done with them.

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[Schurkey]

This is my power steering fluid change tool. Hand soap dispenser with longer tube. Another invasive way to remove fluid from reservoir. I pump out most, leave a little at bottom, refill and drive a bit, then repeat. About 4-5 times and fluid is all clear. It also worked great on removing brake fluid from master cylinder when I changed my brake fluid last week.

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I also used it to add fluids to front differential and transfer case after draining fluids last summer. Yes, I clean in between different fluids!

OK, I'm late to the party.

I can see that a pump pictured above would be useful for changing fluids, HOWEVER, be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the pump is SCRUPULOUSLY CLEAN between pumping mineral-oil fluids and then putting the thing in the brake reservoir. Mineral oil (engine oil, trans fluid, PS fluid, gasoline, gear lube) will make the brake seals VERY unhappy.

A tiny bit of brake fluid in the mineral oils would be far less of an issue; perhaps the worst would be brake fluid in the ATF; and it'd be so little as to not be a real problem.



When I'm flushing a transmission, I don't let the pan run dry. I'm pouring ATF down the dipstick tube as fast as it'll flow. Watch the fluid as it exits the cooler tube, when it comes out looking new, shut off the engine. No harm done--the fluid returning from the cooler is used to lubricate the geartrain in the transmission. Since the car isn't moving, there's nothing moving in the geartrain--so it doesn't need any lube.

No "Corvette servo" needed in the 4L80E. That's exclusive to the 700/4L60 family of transmissions. There are shift-kits and aftermarket parts for the '80E, but the "Corvette servo" isn't among them.

 

[Caman96]

OK, I'm late to the party.

I can see that a pump pictured above would be useful for changing fluids, HOWEVER, be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the pump is SCRUPULOUSLY CLEAN between pumping mineral-oil fluids and then putting the thing in the brake reservoir. Mineral oil (engine oil, trans fluid, PS fluid, gasoline, gear lube) will make the brake seals VERY unhappy.

A tiny bit of brake fluid in the mineral oils would be far less of an issue; perhaps the worst would be brake fluid in the ATF; and it'd be so little as to not be a real problem.



When I'm flushing a transmission, I don't let the pan run dry. I'm pouring ATF down the dipstick tube as fast as it'll flow. Watch the fluid as it exits the cooler tube, when it comes out looking new, shut off the engine. No harm done--the fluid returning from the cooler is used to lubricate the geartrain in the transmission. Since the car isn't moving, there's nothing moving in the geartrain--so it doesn't need any lube.

No "Corvette servo" needed in the 4L80E. That's exclusive to the 700/4L60 family of transmissions. There are shift-kits and aftermarket parts for the '80E, but the "Corvette servo" isn't among them.

I actually have a bunch of the tubes and just use a new one each time. Liquid Worlds never collide. I realized the Servo as I was typing.

 

[454cid]

Thing is though, it's not actually running dry - it's merely unable to access enough fluid to maintain pumping and pressure. For that brief moment, the pump is still wet with oil and thus lubricated.

Then why do they make so much racket?

 

[Pinger]

This is my power steering fluid change tool. Hand soap dispenser with longer tube. Another non-invasive way to remove fluid from reservoir. I pump out most, leave a little at bottom, refill and drive a bit, then repeat. About 4-5 times and fluid is all clear. It also worked great on removing brake fluid from master cylinder when I changed my brake fluid last week.

You must be registered for see images attach

I also used it to add fluids to front differential and transfer case after draining fluids last summer. Yes, I clean in between different fluids!

That's a really clever re-purposing to create a suction tool. And, as you go on to say, on account of them being so easily obtainable, a designated one for whatever fluid.

 

[Pinger]

OK, I'm late to the party.

Actually, no. Much of what you contributed on earlier thread(s) is what is appearing here.

When I'm flushing a transmission, I don't let the pan run dry. I'm pouring ATF down the dipstick tube as fast as it'll flow. Watch the fluid as it exits the cooler tube, when it comes out looking new, shut off the engine. No harm done--the fluid returning from the cooler is used to lubricate the geartrain in the transmission. Since the car isn't moving, there's nothing moving in the geartrain--so it doesn't need any lube.

While I've been saying that it's safe to let the pan run dry I didn't actually let mine do that. I got a measure of how much fluid was expelled and when it was what was compatible with expected TC capacity (overhaul fill quantity minus service fill quantity) I quit.
It was later I read that someone let theirs run to dry with no downsides - and that is entirely plausible.
The task could be broken down into parts stopping the engine to replenish the pan to avoid the dry pan scenario. Or, as you prefer, live replenishment.