fresh vortec engine build won't start

[shownshine55]

I dropped a 355 into my 96 c1500. Engine is nearly stock except for a small cam, headers, MSD ignition components, and a computer tune. We didn't know where #1 piston was at on the stroke. So we stuffed a paper towel into the #1 plug hole and turned it over till it blew the towel out. The line on the balancer was about an inch past the pointer. We backed up the line to the pointer. We dropped the distributor in with the rotor pointing towards the #1 cylinder. We had a fuel leak from the fuel line as soon as I turned the key. I got the line and o-ring fixed so I would say we have fuel. I turned the key and the motor turned over but never fired off. I took #1 plug out (it was dry)and grounded the plug. We turned the key and had a bright orange/yellow spark. Any sugestions as to what I should do next? Thanks.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

You'll probably have to do a CASE relearn.

 

[dave_erald]

You did the crank to the correct spot but I believe you got the distributor drop in wrong.Google vortec dist replacement, there are alignment marks in cap and rotor that have to match up, and I'm not entirely sure that rotor points to cyl 1 like typical small block Chevys

EDIT == The dist has marks in the plastic looking at it top down, there is a "6" and a "8" , line up rotor to the 8 when fully seated and engine TDC Cyl#1.

The engine should at least start to bump and jerk when you go to start it now

 

[shownshine55]

You did the crank to the correct spot but I believe you got the distributor drop in wrong.Google vortec dist replacement, there are alignment marks in cap and rotor that have to match up, and I'm not entirely sure that rotor points to cyl 1 like typical small block Chevys

EDIT == The dist has marks in the plastic looking at it top down, there is a "6" and a "8" , line up rotor to the 8 when fully seated and engine TDC Cyl#1.

The engine should at least start to bump and jerk when you go to start it now

thanks Dave. I did read something on the 6 and the 8. I will go back and search this again and see if I can

You did the crank to the correct spot but I believe you got the distributor drop in wrong.Google vortec dist replacement, there are alignment marks in cap and rotor that have to match up, and I'm not entirely sure that rotor points to cyl 1 like typical small block Chevys

EDIT == The dist has marks in the plastic looking at it top down, there is a "6" and a "8" , line up rotor to the 8 when fully seated and engine TDC Cyl#1.

The engine should at least start to bump and jerk when you go to start it now

I read something on the 6 and the 8. I will reresearch it and figure out what this is. I am betting this has something to do with it. I know we did not pull the rotor off to look for the 6 and the 8. thanks Dave! I do not know what the CASE is, but I know the computer will have to learn and tweak the fresh engine. Once it's under it's own power, it will need to be hooked up for a dianostics(sp?) tune.

 

[dave_erald]

That CASE relearn info can be found here

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/...earn-Procedure-(including-Crankshaft-relearn)

Theft Deterrent kills fuel on these trucks ( I think...) but if it squirted at you once already you probably have a fuel pump running and should be good.

As far as this Crank Angle Sensor Error goes, I was sure that you would only get this after the engine is running and once you spun the engine over 2000 rpm ( but a GM service tech that has done this before can confirm or deny this, and when he does let me know so that I can commit it to memory and not screw other people up )

 

[Zach Kramer]

Probably don't have the distributor timed right 180 off

 

[chrmaka]

Did the motor backfire or do anything when turning over when you tried to start it?

 

[shownshine55]

Motor did nothing but turn over. I practiced lining everything up on a spare distributor. I took out the distributor on my truck and lined up the 8 and once the dirtributor dropped in, the button, or rotor as I called it lined up with the 6 and pointed towards the number one cylinder. I feel pretty good about things now. I have to put the plug wires back on and hook up the battery. I will finish this up tomorrow. it will be a while before I get to a shop with a computer or hand held to time it in correctly. I'm just trying to get it to move under its own power so I can take it to a body shop. I will post up tomorrow how things go. Thanks guys!

 

[shownshine55]

Got it fired up today guys. She was idling at about 1000 rpms. I gave it a little gas and she sputtered and revved up. There was a rattling noise coming from under the truck so we shut it down for the night. If I can get some help, I will see about getting it up in the air tomorrow and we can take a look underneath to see if there is anything obvious under there. Oh duh, just hit me, the converter cover is just wire tied on there. It sounded kind of tinny so I bet that is what it is. That is what we will check first tomorrow.

 

[Justin S]

Soooo what did you do to fix it??