Fixing a Rust Hole, how dumb am I?

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Bondovw

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That hole can be welded without a washer or bolt. You could put something in there and use a magnet to hold it. I would put 2 small tack welds on it and cool it with a air hose. Then I would do 2 more. Tack and grind and it will fill it up. Just don't get it hot.
 

SUBURBAN5

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There was a video on YouTube of a suburban having a bullet hole and the guy was welding it with out bolts or washers. I'm not sure what technique he used but it was cool very time consuming though. Wish I knew how lol.
 

Hipster

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"2015 Chevy Suburban Bullet Hole Repair" on YouTube
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Think this it
He got through it, but I would have gotten fired for doing it like that at most, but not all places I've worked at. He didn't have much blend room for what appears to be pearl white.

I've fixed plenty of bullet holes. 9 out of 10 times you can hammer and dolly the holes just about back closed instead of leaving the wadded up metal inside the door and just welding across it. You can't back up the weld with a piece of copper if it's like shrapnel inside.

A screw hole or something sure but when you put on tack on top another across a large hole it's not that hard to end up with an air pocket/pinhole in the welding that you may not see when grinding it. Get it painted, put together, park it outside in the sun and opps there's a blister in the paint right at the repair a couple hours later. Let's do it again.

In his defense this may have been a cash job where you don't have an insurance company looking over our shoulder scrutinizing repair methods or quality and just did the bare minimum, quickest way possible, to get it out the door.

5 minutes trimming a piece to fit the hole , trim the hole if you have to, weld the perimeter, and be done. No bird turd porcupine looking welds on the inside. Less chance for problems on the outside.
 
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Regal_Six

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Cut a piece of sheet metal to fit the hole, hold it in place with a magnet until you get a couple tacks on it. Grab a couple magnets off the fridge. Grind the paint back from the hole so you get decent welds. I wouldn't use a washer as most are coated with a cad or galv. type coating that body fillers and paint don't like to adhere to. Fiberglass and metal expand and contract at different rates so any repairs done that way can be short lived and if and when it lets loose it wiil be the whole sheet you put on. While weld-thru primers help but they still burn off during welding so if you can get something on the backside when done it helps. paint, undercoating, something to protect it on the back. 3M makes body cavity wax for corrosion protection in a spay can with a tubular wand you can fish up through cracks and crevices to get some protection on the back. You can always unbolt the fender from the wheelhouse and the rear edge and pull it out a touch to get all the crap out and get in there. At the bottom of the fender is that road schmegma or surface rust coming though?


Thats just mud. There was a light dirt all over and I just sprayed that one area with mineral spirits and let it drip. I'm probably going to follow your advice on spraying some fluid film or wax up in there from underneath when the repair is finished.
 

Regal_Six

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So I did some fixing over the weekend and into tonight, thanks for all the advice everyone. It turned out acceptable I think, the only parts lacking are due to my poor welding skills and cheapo welder. Just gonna keep adding to this thread as a personal record so I can come back to it. Decided I'd work on all the other rust on the rig before anything else gets bad - this was the only spot that went through the metal. The rest is all surface. Feel free to kick in any tips or tricks. Especially any hacks on how to paint the top of the frame rails. Thanks again yall!
 

Regal_Six

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Pressure washed a crapload of dirt out through that hole I drilled.

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Regal_Six

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Found an old bolt that was the perfect size. Threads even bit a little, held itself in place. Cleaned the threads with a wire wheel and threaded it in a turn past the thickness of the metal.

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