Electric fans worth it?

[L31MaxExpress]

My engine runs cooler, and my ac stays colder in the heat and humidity of Texas summer running a mechanical fan. The electrics do not even come close to a mechanical fan with a properly functioning clutch. As for horsepower, why chase ~10 hp when the engine actually needs cooling when the same money you spend hacking together an electric fan setup can gain 30-40 hp with headers and a tuned 0411.

If you do not tow or see 100*F or beyond frequently, the electrics may do well. Here in Texas the electrics have to run 9 months out of the year continuously around town and the motors are short lived. The constant amperage draw taxes the alternator and burns relay contacts. Even OEM engineered electric fan systems have a high failure rate. Mechanical is simple, as long as the belt is turning the water pump, the fan spins. An electric clutch on a PWM controller would be a nice upgrade to a simple thermostatic clutch fan, but not necessary. I like the electric clutch because it can be commanded on right at startup, moving massive amounts of airflow while the engine is cool and the ac is struggling to cool a heat soaked interior.

 

[Erik the Awful]

If you want reliability, go clutch fan. If you rev to redline a lot and want performance, go electric, but watch your gauges when going slow. My electric hiccuped once and I went back.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I will add one last bit of information here.

March 4490 underdrive set is cheaper than most decent electric fan setups and will return more power and mileage than the electric fans. 4490 is for an internal fan alternator like a CS130D or AD244. March 4450 is the same set for an alternator with an external fan like the CS-144D. The underdrive slows down the accessories slightly. With my ~750 rpm idle with the mild cam the accessories were spinning equally fast to stock at parking lot and slow traffic speeds. No issues with a/c or power steering output. The mechanical fan makes less noise spinning slightly slower. The power increase was more noticeable than electric fans because everything slows down a bit. While you have it apart, put one of the newer GM power steering pulleys on it. The aluminum crank, water pump and alternator pulley combined with the lighter, newer design power steering pulley removed over 5 lbs of rotating weight that is noticed every time your engine revs up.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

If you want reliability, go clutch fan. If you rev to redline a lot and want performance, go electric, but watch your gauges when going slow. My electric hiccuped once and I went back.

Personal experience, an underdrive crank pulley will make more difference than electric fans and prolong the life of all your other belt driven accessories. The underdrive pulley setup was something I could actually feel seat of the pants even as heavy as the van is and as tall geared. The 350 reved noticeably quicker and smoother thoughout the whole rpm range.

 

[Supercharged111]

I will add one last bit of information here.

March 4490 underdrive set is cheaper than most decent electric fan setups and will return more power and mileage than the electric fans. 4490 is for an internal fan alternator like a CS130D or AD244. March 4450 is the same set for an alternator with an external fan like the CS-144D. The underdrive slows down the accessories slightly. With my ~750 rpm idle with the mild cam the accessories were spinning equally fast to stock at parking lot and slow traffic speeds. No issues with a/c or power steering output. The mechanical fan makes less noise spinning slightly slower. The power increase was more noticeable than electric fans because everything slows down a bit. While you have it apart, put one of the newer GM power steering pulleys on it. The newer aluminum crank, water pump and alternator pulley combined with the lighter power steering pulley removed over 5 lbs of rotating weight that is noticed everytime your engine revs up.

I dunno, that 70# 4L80 converter still sucks some life out vs the 4L60 one.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I dunno, that 70# 4L80 converter still sucks some life out vs the 4L60 one.

Honestly I noticed just the opposite, comparing stock converter to stock converter. The stock 60E converter grabbed about 1,500 rpm vs 2,400 rpm of the 4L85E converter. The S10 converter worked really nice in the 4L65E, was night and day compared to the stock one and still drove about like stock at lower throttle. My van was quicker 0-60 with the 4L85E and stock converter than it was with a 4L65E with the S10 converter. Then again the 383 does not care about the converter weighing 70 lbs. The 383 flashes the 2,800 stall speed converter nearly instantly. In neutral it will rip to 6,000 rpm almost as quickly as the accelerator hits the carpet.

 

[Orpedcrow]

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3rd gen Camaro fans then the universals

Correction: 4th gen

 

[L31MaxExpress]

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3rd gen Camaro fans then the universals

Sure those were 3rd gen fans? Look like 4th gen to me.

 

[Orpedcrow]

Sure those were 3rd gen fans? Look like 4th gen to me.

Probably right…

 

[BeXtreme]

That looks like you are basically blocking off 50% of the airflow through your radiator.

L31 and I disagree on the electric fans, but probably just due to our specific experiences. I have dual electric fans on my 1980 K25 using a 97 K2500 Radiator and L29/4L80e setup. The fans never even come on unless I am stopped for an extended amount of time. low speed comes on with AC pressure and high speed for coolant temp. High speed takes about 5 minutes of idling in 100+ degree temps before it kicks on, then it runs for about 30 seconds before shutting back off again.

As for reliability... my 2011 Suburban has the exact same dual electric fan setup. It is at 220k miles and I use it to tow a 6k lb travel trailer all over the western US with zero cooling issues.