Dual pipes with X pipe muffler

[Bloodwater79]

the only thing I think would give you any issues is the O2, probably have to change it to a 3 wire to keep it hot. I was planning on doing a very similar thing on mine

 

[toomanyhobbies]

I just saw this one and I would not recommend the Magnaflow. I had that muffler and didn't like the tone or the volume on my 350 Vortec. I went with what I think is a stock muffler (2 in 2 out) for a 6.2 truck and i like it very much. It sounds like a '70's corvette to me.

 

[Schurkey]

I’m want to slowly build it into an overlander.

WTF is an "overlander"?

My questions are if the 2.5” pipe would be too big for my stock 350,

Exhaust sizing depends on displacement X RPM. Dual 2.5" pipes on a typical 350 is not too large, but larger than absolutely needed especially in a lower-RPM application like a pickup.

I presume you have no regard for emissions legality, since a single catalyst would be mandatory on your truck. That's FEDERAL law, doesn't matter if your state or county doesn't inspect for emissions compliance.

For the record--when it was my money, I slapped on a "high-flow" monolithic catalyst, and a 3" stainless steel single exhaust using mandrel bends. Way cheaper than a "dual" exhaust, and works just about as well. Don't have to buy two mufflers, don't have to buy an "X" or "H", don't have to buy two sets of hangers, and two sets of clamps, etc. Functions just as well, but not near as sexy.

if just the x pipe muffler would be enough for proper scavenging, and if the muffler would be too loud. I don’t want it to be excessively loud, just a nice low rumble to it.

Wild Guess: "X-Pipe Muffler" is a marketing gimmick. Walk away. Install a REAL "X-pipe" and a pair of mufflers.

How important is the X-pipe and what does it do?
My dual system doesn't have one - each cylinder bank is completely independent of the other - should it be that way? Am I losing out on anything? (That's on a 350 Vortec BTW).

Any exhaust crossover--"H-pipe" or "X-pipe" (even the exhaust crossover in non-Vortec intake manifolds, to a limited extent) promotes lower exhaust restriction by allowing the exhaust streams from both cylinder banks to share muffler volume.

It's like the difference between a dual-plane or single-plane intake manifold--a dual plane manifold has the carb sides independent, a single-plane allows more flow through the carb because both sides of the carb are shared by both cylinder banks. An "H-pipe" or "X-pipe" is like cutting a slot between the planes of an intake, allowing a limited amount of sharing.

Allowing the exhaust for the two banks of cylinders to communicate not only lowers the sound level, it can change the tone as well. Some folks really hate the way an "X-piped" exhaust sounds. Some folks really like it. The real benefit, however, is the reduction in back pressure that the crossover ("H" or "X") provides.

X pipe is for higher RPMs, H for low end.

Not nearly that simple. Note that the Craftsman race truck pictured in this thread--which runs at high RPM--has an H-pipe.

Check out this exhaust system. I took these pics back in 08 when my son and I went to the races in Phoenix. This is a mock-up of a truck on a rotisserie when it was the Craftsman series. Note the Tri-Y headers and giant H pipe.

Note the "H-pipe" on a high-rpm "race truck".

How about this for a suspension?

That makes me moist. I've had a Truck-Arm-coil-spring fetish for decades. Even considered adding a Truck-Arm rear suspension to my El Camino.

Most folks don't understand that the Truck Arm coil spring rear suspension was almost universally used in NASCAR (and the Craftsman Truck racing series) for DECADES; but it was standard equipment on Chevy and GMC 1/2- and 3/4-ton pickups starting in 1960. I don't know when it went away in favor of ****** leaf springs again--certainly for the "new" trucks in...1972? I think they were selectively putting the leafs back under the pickups earlier than that, though.

Buddy of mine ran a '68 or '69 GMC 1/2-ton with the Truck Arm ass-end. He bought some cheap Add-A-Leaf "overload" springs, and was very surprised to find that he had coil springs back there, instead of leafs.

The '60 2wds had torsion bar front suspension, too. Again, that got dropped and was replaced with coils after a few years. Even the big trucks had torsion bars up front for awhile in the '60s. There were complaints of excessive suspension wear, and it all went away again in favor of conventional crap.

https://www.curbsideclassic.com/cur...olet-pick-up-trucks-the-first-modern-pick-up/

 

[b454rat]

It was an option on trucks back then. GMC’s got leaves, chevy normally got coils. But I’ve seen chevy’s with leaves. Think it was all how you ordered it. But the coils stopped with the new body style in 73. Torsion bar was up to either 62 or 63, thinking 62.

 

[Pinger]

WTF is an "overlander"?




That makes me moist. I've had a Truck-Arm-coil-spring fetish for decades. Even considered adding a Truck-Arm rear suspension to my El Camino.

Most folks don't understand that the Truck Arm coil spring rear suspension was almost universally used in NASCAR (and the Craftsman Truck racing series) for DECADES; but it was standard equipment on Chevy and GMC 1/2- and 3/4-ton pickups starting in 1960. I don't know when it went away in favor of ****** leaf springs again--certainly for the "new" trucks in...1972? I think they were selectively putting the leafs back under the pickups earlier than that, though.

Possibly because leaves make for a simpler chassis/frame as the weight loads are spread well and into four locations compared to two with coils. (Chapman found this out the hard way when converting the Lotus Cortina to coils and breaking its back).
They could have just replaced the coils with fully floating leaves (as did Group 4 rally cars) but I guess justifying the forward arms and Panhard rod when the leaves configured normally were capable of axle location to the bean counters was a tough gig.

 

[batsy74]

If you can check out Engine masters episode 22. "Straight Exhaust vs. H-Pipe vs. X-Pipe!" it will answer a few questions for you.
-Batsy

 

[Pinger]

If you can check out Engine masters episode 22. "Straight Exhaust vs. H-Pipe vs. X-Pipe!" it will answer a few questions for you.
-Batsy

Answered one question. Ain't worth the grief I'd have trying put either a X or H pipe at the same distance from the manifolds on a dual that runs up the same side of the truck.

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[OutlawDrifter]

#1 that muffler will be LOUD

#2 faster, easier, cheaper to run a single muffler/tailpipe...probably same power result as well

#3 +1 on needing a heated O2 sensor

#4 do what you want/makes you happy

 

[Schurkey]

Answered one question. Ain't worth the grief I'd have trying put either a X or H pipe at the same distance from the manifolds on a dual that runs up the same side of the truck.

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Don't learn the WRONG things from this video. These guys are infamous for half-truths, partial explanations, assumptions, and...well..bullshit.

1. They tell us they used very low-restriction (Loud) mufflers. The main benefit to the exhaust crossover is to lower exhaust restriction. There'd be WAY more difference if they'd used quieter mufflers and "real" exhaust pipes having additional bends so the exhaust system had more (realistic) inherent restriction, .

2. Overall decibel readings are important--but--the dB meter doesn't measure the QUALITY of the noise. Adding a crossover makes the exhaust "smoother", subjectively it's quieter even if a soulless, emotionless meter doesn't measure differently. PEOPLE will think the exhaust with the crossover is less-loud even if it measures the same. This is especially important when those people are "the Police" and you're driving past them with a heavier foot than absolutely needed.

3. No crossover = 129 dB. "H" pipe = 128 dB "X" pipe = 127 dB. Decibels are a logrithmic scale. A 3 dB difference is HALF AS MUCH ENERGY. We're being told there's a two-dB difference--that's HUGE. Yes, this info would be more helpful if these idiots had bothered to mention which "scale" the meter was set to--Peak or Average, dBA or dBC, or something else. Moreover, measuring inside an enclosed room may or may not simulate anything meaningful, because the sound will be bouncing off the side walls and ceiling in a way that doesn't happen "outside". The room becomes an echo-chamber, measured outdoors things might be VERY different.

4. Who installs tailpipes that are only two or three feet long, and don't go up and over the rear axle--adding more bends and therefore restriction to the exhaust system?


I don't know why you'd be hung-up on assuring that the crossover was the same distance from the exhaust manifolds; the pragmatic approach would be just as they described--put the crossover where it's the simplest and easiest to install, and interferes least with the other "stuff" on the chassis. A "dual" system going down one side of the chassis is extra-easy to add a crossover to, because the pipes are naturally close together.

An exhaust crossover will almost certainly make the vehicle more enjoyable to drive, even if the HP increase is at the limit of the Dyno to resolve.

#2 faster, easier, cheaper to run a single muffler/tailpipe...probably same power result as well

That's what I did on the '88 K1500. 3" converter, 3" single pipe, 3" in-and-out muffler, 3" tailpipe.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Dual in cat body works very well too. In fact the magnaflow/bosal high flow cat for a L30 305 Vortec van is identical to a TBI truck where it bolts to the manifolds and uses a high flow dual inlet/single outlet cat. No need to use the restrictive TBI Y-pipe. Used this cat with BBK equal length shorty headers on a 383 V8 Astro van build a few years ago. Little Astro van was a very strong runner with a 3" single exhaust. Owner wanted it smog legal and mellow.

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