Dual pipes with X pipe muffler

[CalebAdams]

The further you get the O2 sensor the more the response is delayed. Then you may get stumbling unless you go in the .bin and add some more delay to the "Duration Offset vs Airflow" based on Gms/Sec calculated in the calibration. In other words, the ECM will correct AFR based on O2 feedback but it'll be late since it takes longer to receive it.


Or you can get this adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Mot...higan+motorsports+22300&qid=1601559804&sr=8-1

And an AC Delco AFS74 heated O2 sensor

Awesome. So my stock O2 sensor will bolt into the header and the new heated one will go into the Y pipe, or will I need to get two of those harnesses & heated sensors, or am I just confused? And using that adapter I will need to splice into my fuel pump power or equivalent correct? I want to thank you guys for helping me with this stuff I really appreciate it.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

So my stock O2 sensor will bolt into the header and the new heated one will go into the Y pipe, or will I need to get two of those harnesses & heated sensors, or am I just confused?

In your case you only need 1 heated O2 sensor in the header and put a plug in the Y pipe bung.

 

[CalebAdams]

In your case you only need 1 heated O2 sensor in the header and put a plug in the Y pipe bung.

Awesome, thanks. And yes I looked and made sure I do only have one O2 sensor in the drivers side manifold. I must have been thinking of my Nissan

 

[CalebAdams]

Hey, sorry for the long time in between posts, but I have my exhaust done. I did the JBA shorty headers and high flow y pipe from summit, and had the pipe run to a 3” in, dual 2.25” out magnaflow muffler, and had those pipes exit out the passenger side, much like the stock exhaust does. I also did the heated O2 sensor upgrade, and all in all it looks and sounds great. Here’s some pics of the finished product. I even took a little aluminum polish to the ends of the exhaust lol

 

[CalebAdams]

So you used the JBA shorty headers and the JBA y pipe?

Yep, sure did. They fit great

 

[CalebAdams]

One thing I forgot to mention. Part of the instructions on the JBA headers say to remove your power steering pump to access the bracket that partially mounts to the manifold, take it off, cut the manifold mount off, and reinstall it and the power steering pump. I looked it over, and instead of taking all that off I decided to cut the bracket while it was on the truck. That probably saved about an hour or more on the install and was pretty easy to do with a cutoff wheel on the grinder. You can see the modified bracket on pic #3

 

[tsr2185]

Any exhaust crossover--"H-pipe" or "X-pipe" (even the exhaust crossover in non-Vortec intake manifolds, to a limited extent) promotes lower exhaust restriction by allowing the exhaust streams from both cylinder banks to share muffler volume.

It's like the difference between a dual-plane or single-plane intake manifold--a dual plane manifold has the carb sides independent, a single-plane allows more flow through the carb because both sides of the carb are shared by both cylinder banks. An "H-pipe" or "X-pipe" is like cutting a slot between the planes of an intake, allowing a limited amount of sharing.

Allowing the exhaust for the two banks of cylinders to communicate not only lowers the sound level, it can change the tone as well. Some folks really hate the way an "X-piped" exhaust sounds. Some folks really like it. The real benefit, however, is the reduction in back pressure that the crossover ("H" or "X") provides.


Not nearly that simple. Note that the Craftsman race truck pictured in this thread--which runs at high RPM--has an H-pipe.


Note the "H-pipe" on a high-rpm "race truck".


That makes me moist. I've had a Truck-Arm-coil-spring fetish for decades. Even considered adding a Truck-Arm rear suspension to my El Camino.

Most folks don't understand that the Truck Arm coil spring rear suspension was almost universally used in NASCAR (and the Craftsman Truck racing series) for DECADES; but it was standard equipment on Chevy and GMC 1/2- and 3/4-ton pickups starting in 1960. I don't know when it went away in favor of ****** leaf springs again--certainly for the "new" trucks in...1972? I think they were selectively putting the leafs back under the pickups earlier than that, though.

Buddy of mine ran a '68 or '69 GMC 1/2-ton with the Truck Arm ass-end. He bought some cheap Add-A-Leaf "overload" springs, and was very surprised to find that he had coil springs back there, instead of leafs.

The '60 2wds had torsion bar front suspension, too. Again, that got dropped and was replaced with coils after a few years. Even the big trucks had torsion bars up front for awhile in the '60s. There were complaints of excessive suspension wear, and it all went away again in favor of conventional crap.

https://www.curbsideclassic.com/cur...olet-pick-up-trucks-the-first-modern-pick-up/

91 350 TBI. I have true duals with glass packs. I like the idle, but dont really care for the BLAP BLAP BLAP when i give her the beans. I want to install a x-pipe, but should this be installed before or after the glass packs?. Once I cut the pipes to install the x-pipe, I will also look at the condition of the glassspacks inside....may have to change those out aswell.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I want to install a x-pipe, but should this be installed before or after the glass packs?.

This is funny, I'm watching "Car Fix" on TV and they just said "You want the X pipe to be ~8 - 18" from the header collector."

 

[Schurkey]

In most cases, "behind the transmission and in front of the mufflers."

But on GMT400s where the exhaust runs down one side of the chassis, I guess it doesn't matter so long as it's in front of the mufflers.