Drunkcanuks build...... finally!!!

[Drunkcanuk]

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Well....it's all welded up. I'd say excuse the booger welds, but I think it came out not to friggen bad for my experience with welding. Definitely seen worse!!! Lol
Each picture is about 30min apart, gave it time to cool down.
Doesn't seem to have any warp happening so I'm pretty excited about not f'n it up!!! Lol

Woman is having a nap, our bedroom is above the garage. Once she wakes up, and then I probably go for a nap, I'll start hitting it with the grinder and flapp wheel. Or maybe it happens tomorrow. Only time will tell! Lol

 

[GrimsterGMC]

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Well....it's all welded up. I'd say excuse the booger welds, but I think it came out not to friggen bad for my experience with welding. Definitely seen worse!!! Lol
Each picture is about 30min apart, gave it time to cool down.
Doesn't seem to have any warp happening so I'm pretty excited about not f'n it up!!! Lol

Woman is having a nap, our bedroom is above the garage. Once she wakes up, and then I probably go for a nap, I'll start hitting it with the grinder and flapp wheel. Or maybe it happens tomorrow. Only time will tell! Lol

Keep in mind that when you hit it with the flapper wheel it will get really hot, so take it slow and just let it cool between bursts, no point in warping it now that you have got this far.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Keep in mind that when you hit it with the flapper wheel it will get really hot, so take it slow and just let it cool between bursts, no point in warping it now that you have got this far.

Oh for sure. And I have a few new ones so I don't have to work it so hard for long on a worn out wheel.
Ya, in no hurry so I'll be taking breaks for sure.

Maybe start on the "struts" for the rollpan while it cools down.

 

[Alteca]

I guess it’s to late of a response now but it’s virtually impossible to run continuous beads with mig on thin stuff. In the future I would turn the voltage up from what you were using in your previous pics and just stack tacks a few inches at a time. I like to wait less than half a second between each tack(my auto darkening hood is setup so it doesn't even have enough time to go clear before I lay the next tack). The penetration is great doing this, with no issues of pinholes or any inconsistency from my experience. I am no professional so I cannot say this is the proper way to do it but it’s been working for me.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

I guess it’s to late of a response now but it’s virtually impossible to run continuous beads with mig on thin stuff. In the future I would turn the voltage up from what you were using in your previous pics and just stack tacks a few inches at a time. I like to wait less than half a second between each tack(my auto darkening hood is setup so it doesn't even have enough time to go clear before I lay the next tack). The penetration is great doing this, with no issues of pinholes or any inconsistency from my experience. I am no professional so I cannot say this is the proper way to do it but it’s been working for me.

It was just small tacks, a bunch of them. I would never even try and throw a continuous bead on such thin stuff.
I went with my initial setting based upon the chart in the machine (using the filler piece thickness), and it blew a hole, then I dialed it back. Odd thing was that the hole was only on the filler piece, not the OE metal.
Must be that fantastic Chinese metal!!! Lol
I have what was left over from the cab corner we did last year, I may play around with that someday to practice on the thinner stuff.

 

[Alteca]

ah some chinesium could be an issue. Some of the pics looked like longer strands I thought you tried running a bead. I’m using a Hobart 210 240v on 20 gauge frequently. The voltage is changed based on a switch from 1-7 with no in between. I have found 3 to be too hot and 2 to lay down cold so I’ve learned to just work with it on 3 with good results as long as I take my time.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

ah some chinesium could be an issue. Some of the pics looked like longer strands I thought you tried running a bead. I’m using a Hobart 210 240v on 20 gauge frequently. The voltage is changed based on a switch from 1-7 with no in between. I have found 3 to be too hot and 2 to lay down cold so I’ve learned to just work with it on 3 with good results as long as I take my time.

Mines a Lincoln MigPak 180, so it's a 220 machine as well. Same situation, only 5 voltage settings with no in-between.
Guess I did get a little "beady" in a few spots. Definitely not my intention!! Lol

 

[fancyTBI]

Now you must shave the door handles, mirrors, antenna mast, etc. Looking good!! I thought about doing similar on my '95 but ultimately have decided to not do it.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Now you must shave the door handles, mirrors, antenna mast, etc. Looking good!! I thought about doing similar on my '95 but ultimately have decided to not do it.

Thanks.
I have thought about the door handles and cargo light. Light is an "easy" one. The door handles I'm a little hesitant about, just dealing with electronics to open it scares me a bit, especially if the battery dies. But doing the handles would make it harder for the scumbags to go up under the handle to break in.
The antenna will probably go.
The new 454ss style mirrors are sitting in the cab. Nothing stopping me from doing the drivers side, but passenger needs a new door anyway, just do it at once.

 

[bluex]

For shaved handles you always include a hidden mechanical release for one door. A hood release cable works pretty good usually. Hide it under the rocker an if you get the right style you can open it with your foot.