The window tracks are adjustable inside the door. Remove the inside panel and try the window up and down. Adjust as necessary. Grease the metal channel on the glass too
98chevy2500SS
Checked the striker plate bolt? If they're showing signs of wear, grab a passenger side one outa the wreckers. Less wear than a driver side. Dorman makes 'em too. If Dorman makes 'em, that indicates a commonly replaced part!
Been inside these doors before? Ich.
Working on the mechanism while that metal interior panel is off is a PitA.
Undo all the screws, pull that metal panel, & those inner guts take a sh_t.
Bent scissor arms. One end or the other of the glass drops, binding up inside the channels. Or the whole thing just falls all at once, slamming into the bottom of the door shell.
I bought a couple of these. 5" aluminum.
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Most are made out of plastic. Little smaller too. 4 5/8".
I bought these ones 'cause they stand up better in a shop.
Things get dropped. Knocked off of benches.
Plastic ones are in the 2 for $10-$20 range.
The Alu.'s were $15. each. Amazon.
Stick one to the outer side of the glass right at the bottom middle so it bumps up against the body of the door. Roll the window down a couple of inches first. This is so you can get your fingers through there to grab the glass at the top by hand.
The outer side because if it's stuck to the inner side, you won't be able to lift & unhook the top of the door panel when removing.
Once the D/P is off, take the second suction & attach it to the inside. One end or the other, front or rear. Doesn't matter.
Grab the top of the glass at the opposite end of where that inside cup is placed. Once the outer cup is removed, that end will want to swing & drop. Attach that outer cup to the inside at the other end.
With that gap at the top, you'll have some amount of up-n-down play & that'll allow for some wiggle room to play with getting those wheels back inside the glass' scissor lift tracks. Using the suction cup handles to move the glass around is a lot easier than trying to hold the glass from the top while trying to get those wheels in their channels.
I've found that these work a lot better than sitting on the door sill while working on these doors. Easier on the back!
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The door seals are prone to "flattening" . The replacement seal will solve the problem but only for that door. It is labor intensive and expensive to change all the seals. The trick is to go to home depot and buy something called 3/8 backer rod. It is basically a ribbon of round foam and you use lawn trimmer line to feed it into the holes in the back of the seal to fill up the gap in the seal so the door deals tight.
There is a you tube video for this and it works. I have done it.
I was going to suggest the same thing. I've done it & it stops a lot of the noise.
I used poly piping core. The stuff inside the beading on seats.
Why? I buy it in rolls of 550 yards!
2 sizes. Largest is 5/16" dia., which is what works for this.
Not quite a tight fit. Gave the ends some bulk with a couple wraps of duct tape to keep it inside the seal.
It is enough to keep the seal from totally collapsing when the door is shut.
Stop by an upholstery shop. For the amount you'll need, (3 yards?) I'd be surprised if they charged you more than a buck.
Has to be the poly core. Not the stuff for furniture.
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