Door Lock Actuators

[TechNova]

I ended up getting mine through LMC Truck. Don't remember the brand, but it was $36.95 and it works perfectly. I changed it this past August. Holy crap, don't let your truck be out in the sun very long and try to do anything with the door. Metal got too hot to think about messing with after about 10am in the Texas sun.
Had to buy another interior door handle too. This is the third one my truck has gone through. I guess they're just brittle. I don't think I pull very hard on the handle to open the door to get out.

Some advice when you're changing these out - make sure to remove the window and interior metal door panel. Roll the window all the way down and then slide the window forward on its track until the front comes out, then slide it all the way back until the back comes out. There are some videos on YouTube to help out with the visuals.

Why are you removing the window or black metal panel for a door lock actuator or for an interior handle?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Some advice when you're changing these out - make sure to remove the window and interior metal door panel. Roll the window all the way down and then slide the window forward on its track until the front comes out, then slide it all the way back until the back comes out.

No need to remove the window, just disconnect it from the tracks, lift it up out of the way and wedge it there. We took the regulator and panel off to access the door locks too. It just made it easier. We replaced the lock cylinders, the actuators, and the switches on my 88. Then cleaned the remaining moving parts, lubricated them with white lithium (or Sil-glyde I can't remember) And riveted the panels back on. Now the windows go up/down twice as fast and the door locks work great. It turned out the passenger switch was bad which cause them not to work. Here's the actuators I bought almost a year ago - still working fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Door-L...83-8-2-141--&vehicleName=1988+Chevrolet+C1500

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

If it works from one door it is not the actuator. It is something from the fusebox to the actuator connector on the side that doesn't make it work properly. I would have to look at a wiring diagram to know your vehicle, but many cars run the other doors thru the driver's side switches. A malfunctioning driver' switch may not be supplying voltage to the actuator.

^^^X2 on my 88 the switches are wired together, I think newer trucks have a module. But it sure does sound like an electrical issue more than a mechanical one.

 

[AK49BWL]

Newer trucks only have the relay module if it has keyless entry or is a 4-door (CC or SUV). Otherwise they're wired very much like the originals.

 

[TechNova]

No need to remove the window, just disconnect it from the tracks, lift it up out of the way and wedge it there. We took the regulator and panel off to access the door locks too. It just made it easier. We replaced the lock cylinders, the actuators, and the switches on my 88. Then cleaned the remaining moving parts, lubricated them with white lithium (or Sil-glyde I can't remember) And riveted the panels back on. Now the windows go up/down twice as fast and the door locks work great. It turned out the passenger switch was bad which cause them not to work. Here's the actuators I bought almost a year ago - still working fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Door-L...83-8-2-141--&vehicleName=1988+Chevrolet+C1500

Am I missing something here? I did my 89 a year ago and daughter's 99 Tahoe a week ago, and many others remove rebuild and lube the actuators and put them back in. No need to touch glass, regulator or the black inner panel.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Am I missing something here? I did my 89 a year ago and daughter's 99 Tahoe a week ago, and many others remove rebuild and lube the actuators and put them back in. No need to touch glass, regulator or the black inner panel.

It's just easier to get to the lock cylinder. Yes, if I were only going to do the actuator, I wouldn't bother taking the whole thing apart. The door locks hadn't worked in years and they were really stiff to move manually. I just figured if I was going to tear into it, I'd just replace everything since it was 32 years old. The parts are relatively cheap. Spending the time and effort, might as well do it all. Now it should be good for another 32 years, LOL.

 

[mr_josh]

A lot of good advice here but I would just say (if it hasn’t been said already) take a second to jump the actuators straight to 12v when you get the door panels off to see if they work satisfactorily.

I just assumed my truck’s actuators were bad and then with a little investigating found that the actuators were great and the switches were trash.

 

[TechNova]

It's just easier to get to the lock cylinder. Yes, if I were only going to do the actuator, I wouldn't bother taking the whole thing apart. The door locks hadn't worked in years and they were really stiff to move manually. I just figured if I was going to tear into it, I'd just replace everything since it was 32 years old. The parts are relatively cheap. Spending the time and effort, might as well do it all. Now it should be good for another 32 years, LOL.

Ok, a little more understandable. I still do this without removing the glass, I have done enough I can get the clips by feel, still not a fun job.