decarbonization, Im undecided

[Supercharged111]

Another trick I heard if the inside is really dirty, drain the oil and put tranny fluid in it. Don't drive it, but just let it idle and get up to temp. Tranny fluid has a lot of detergents that will clean the deposits....

I've dumped a single quart in with the oil and driven around before. Here's one that's even more aggressive: dump a quart of diesel in with the old oil and idle a warm engine for a minute then dump. I don't use that one anymore because it released chunks of sludge.

 

[Schurkey]

Wonder what "specially prepared" rice meant.

First Guess: "Expensive".

I'd suggest the steam cleaning as it is cheap, and I have had positive results; then use Techron or Seafoam.

Drizzling a "urine stream" of water down the throttle body (back and forth on a 2-plane manifold) works great to clean the combustion chamber. I would not expect it to do much for the intake manifold, though. I use a half-gallon, with the engine running about 2000--2500 rpm.

Techron in the fuel would clean injectors; and if the injectors are aimed at the intake valves, it'll clean them, too.

I keep hearing about Seafoam and it's competitors cleaning intake manifolds; I've never confirmed it. I know that I had some motorcycle carbs that were sooty from a garage fire, and Seafoam was absolutely worthless on that.

 

[Crookedaxle]

I use my right foot to decarbonize my engines. Haven't had any build up in 32 years.

I have a Taurus SHO with the Ecoboost engine. I just got it back from the shop after putting a water pump in the engine. Yes, I said IN the engine not ON the engine. Don't get me started.... Anyways, 91,000 miles and supposedly all DI engines have a huge issue with carbon build up on the back of the intake valves (turbo motors being even worse) so I had them stick a borescope into the intake ports and look at them. I'm putting a tune on it this spring and am also going to do a meth kit. I figured the meth kit would be the first thing to go on to try and get some of the build up off of the valves before it's too late and I'd have to do walnut blasting or another method. He said there is ZERO build up on the valves and that the entire engine looks spotless inside. He said I was wasting my money putting a timing chain, secondary timing chains. plungers and guides in along with the water pump but I did it anyways. I left the phasers in though. I'm a lead foot, I don't let my engine sit and "warm up" for 20 minutes before driving it like some people do in cold weather, I don't let it idle for extended lengths of time, I don't take many short trips, I use upper end/middle of the road full synthetic (Castrol Magnatec) and change it at 5,000 miles and I use Top Tier gasoline. That's why it looks like it does inside.

 

[Supercharged111]

Seems the current correct answer with keeping intake valves clean on DI engines is to have auxiliary port injectors spraying on them. Last I checked, Ford doesn't even have an approved intake tract cleaning method for the valves. They figure if you use a solvent that it'll shell a turbo so they replace heads under warranty. After that good luck.

 

[skylark]

Here is the deal with a vortec. It has a ton of carbon in the intake from the egr. I personally think that it is due to the exhaust cooling so much by the time that it reaches the intake.

The poppet injectors carbon up from heat soaking the poppets when the engine is shut off and fuel isn't flowing through them to cool them down. Occasionally running seafoam deep creep down the intake helps as does a can of techron/marvel mystery oil/top tier fuels.

 

[Redneckgeriatric]

First Guess: "Expensive".


Drizzling a "urine stream" of water down the throttle body (back and forth on a 2-plane manifold) works great to clean the combustion chamber. I would not expect it to do much for the intake manifold, though. I use a half-gallon, with the engine running about 2000--2500 rpm.

Techron in the fuel would clean injectors; and if the injectors are aimed at the intake valves, it'll clean them, too.

I keep hearing about Seafoam and it's competitors cleaning intake manifolds; I've never confirmed it. I know that I had some motorcycle carbs that were sooty from a garage fire, and Seafoam was absolutely worthless on that.

yep, back in da day, that was common. get engine hot, hold carb open and pour water in as fast as it would take it. too much would sound lean, too little would allow valves to float. roflmao. every now and again, you would hear the rattle of a big chunk of carbon that got blown off the piston. or should we say "recycled quaker state". the chevies were the worst about carbon build up because of the bean can breather under the intake and old die hard chevy fans just accepted that their engines were going to use oil.

 

[Schurkey]

Here is the deal with a vortec. It has a ton of carbon in the intake from the egr. I personally think that it is due to the exhaust cooling so much by the time that it reaches the intake.

'Cause HOT exhaust would deform the plastic intake manifold.

Occasionally running seafoam deep creep down the intake helps

Last I looked--and I admit that it's been a few years--all the "Seafoam" products were the same stuff in different containers.

The engine-cleaner in the pourable can, the engine cleaner in the aerosol can with the two-foot red plastic "straw", Deep Creep, and Trans Tune all shared the same MSD Sheet. So if Seafoam works at all for removing carbon (I'm not convinced based on my motorcycle-carburetor experiment) than any of the products should work about the same. If I was cleaning an intake manifold on a Vortec, I'd be most likely to use the aerosol with the two-foot straw--so that I could kinda direct the spray where I wanted it.

https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Foam-Act...sr_1_5?keywords=Seafoam&qid=1576624502&sr=8-5

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Schurkey]

get engine hot, hold carb open and pour water in as fast as it would take it.

Water works really well, it's inexpensive, but the big advantage is that unlike "Top Engine Cleaner" or Seafoam, or the other competing petroleum-based products, is that the neighbors don't call the fire department because of all the smoke those other products produce at the tailpipe.

But again, it's the STEAM that does the cleaning, so I don't think the intake manifold will benefit too much from water in the throttle body. The combustion chambers will, though.

 

[skylark]

'Cause HOT exhaust would deform the plastic intake manifold.


Last I looked--and I admit that it's been a few years--all the "Seafoam" products were the same stuff in different containers.

You must be registered for see images attach

The deep creep is very similar. It is essentially an aerosol version of regular seafoam but it seems to act more like a penetrating oil and seems to cling to the carbon. For a first line diy guy treatment it is decent.

 

[Redneckgeriatric]

Water works really well, it's inexpensive, but the big advantage is that unlike "Top Engine Cleaner" or Seafoam, or the other competing petroleum-based products, is that the neighbors don't call the fire department because of all the smoke those other products produce at the tailpipe.

But again, it's the STEAM that does the cleaning, so I don't think the intake manifold will benefit too much from water in the throttle body. The combustion chambers will, though.

and top of pistons. and sharp edge (ledge) of carbon is a superheated igniter. everytime fuel air is introduced into the chamber / bore, it is ignited instantly. BOOM detonation. it will continue to beat hell out of the engine even after spark is terminated. piston skirts and rod ends receive the devastating force of the explosions.