decarbonization, Im undecided

[John R]

I really got lucky finding this site.
I joined a couple months back because I own a 97 k1500 regular cab,5.7 engine and decided to drive it another 100,000 miles instead of buying a new truck. I just couldnt deplete my savings to put down on a new truck to have a monthly payment I could live with ,lol.
I started by having it repainted (clear was peeling on fender and door). Got it back and it really turned out nice.
Then I started all the maintenance.
Im at a point as I read and talk to different mechanics about decarboning the engine. Ive had quite a few I really trust,tell me not to do it.
So, Im thinking of maybe running something like Techron or Seafoam thru the gas tank and maybe run it on the intersate for several days. Then install new plugs,wires and dist cap/rotar.
Would this be better than hooking up to a machine to decarbonize it??
just dunno,at this point what to do or believe.
I took the throttle body off and cleaned it already. It ran pretty darn good before I did this but I can tell it has a smoother idle.
Also had a frriend run a diagnostic on it and the readings were all good.
I would really appreciate your take on this.
Thanks,
John

 

[454cid]

I don't know what process you're referring to by decarboning the engine.

I wouldn't bother unless you have a problem. Changing the oil on a regular basis, and making sure all systems work would be better.

 

[Crazydavez28]

How many miles are on the motor? It will likely run another 100,000 but if you don't think it will make it I would run it into the ground and get a brand new Vortec crate for $2155 that comes with a warranty.

The de-carboning process sounds like snake oil unless it is geared towards the new direct injected vehicles that build up carbon on the intake valves.

I did see a Youtube video of a guy switching to Royal purple and the detergents in it started cleaning out all the sludge deposits inside his engine. A good synthetic oil should keep an engine clean inside and will have less ash when you do burn it. My 94 Camaro engine has 80k+ miles of absolute rape and it looks new under the valve covers.

 

[Supercharged111]

Not complete snake oil.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAEegQIBRAB&usg=AOvVaw0aEPtU_sdQ2snkT8Lr0ANt

The question is does he really need it? I dump 2 cans of Berryman's in the tank and fill up every so often. That and a highway trip back to MI once had the engine burning much less oil. I'm going to do the above to the wife's Envoy and see if it makes a difference as that motor does burn oil but only has 95k on the clock, excellent oil pressure, and zero valvetrain noise.

 

[John R]

Thanks. I have 180,000 miles on it. Im the original owner. Engine runs good. No oil burning as I can tell and no leaks. When I took the throttle body off to clean it, I got concerned about the carbon in the engine.
Think I will just put the Techron in the tank and make a couple long trips. Then maybe every fourth or fifth fill up, place another in.
Thanks,
John

 

[Supercharged111]

EGR really gums up the intake tract.

 

[Schurkey]

"Decarbonizing" with a "machine"? A bunch of crap. Aside from outright lies and ancient history, I can't imagine what "machine" could decarbonize an engine*. Best I can think of would be a "machine" that ran the engine on solvent that would clean the injectors, and--maybe--the intake valves.

1. Buy "Top Tier" fuel. "Top Tier" fuel has additional detergent additives beyond the little bit that the EPA requires. As always, use the lowest-octane fuel that doesn't make your knock sensor crazy. Some gas stations advertise "Top Tier Plus" which has more detergent additive than the Top Tier mandate.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top_Tier_Detergent_Gasoline

2. Add a bottle of Techron to the gas tank at every oil change; which is probably needed at 10,000+ miles (but depends on how you use the vehicle.)

3. How does EXCESSIVE carbon build-up in the combustion chambers of an engine that's controlled by an O2 sensor, so that the fuel curve is almost 100% perfect for almost 100% of the throttle range?

4. Yeah, EGR and PCV can put some goo on the inside of the intake manifold. "Seafoam" is supposed to be good for dissolving that. I don't have a lot of faith in Seafoam as a solvent. Seems to do OK as far as "stabilizing" gasoline over the winter, though.







*Thousands of years ago, some clever folks at Oldsmobile were running RICE through the engine by blowing it in via the spark-plug holes, the rice acted like shot-blasting media, which knocked the carbon off the pistons, valves, etc.

You must be registered for see images attach

Note that the engine in the photo is the 1964-earlier "original" Olds V-8, not the '64-newer "Second Generation" Olds engine.

 

[b454rat]

I had an S-10 blazer that would run like crap now n then. Turned out to be the EGR valve. I ran a can of Seafoam thru it, half in the gas tank, other half in a vacuum line, but don't remember what one, it was over 10 years ago. Once the 'foam gets sucked into the engine, shut it off and let it sit. Then go out and romp on it. First time I did it, it looked like a smoke screen from a James Bond movie. But it ran better, was smoother idling too.

Also, as far as cleaning an engine, just change the oil. I put a 400 into a car I had years ago. The motor had a **** ton of miles on it, and looked like the oil was never changed. Everything was covered in dried burnt sludge. I needed vise grips to get the lifters out. I put rebuilt heads, cam/lifters/timing chain, and oil pump on the motor. I put about 60k on the motor before pulling it, and did regular oil changes on it, using Castrol 20/50, then I think 10/30 when I forgot to change the oil when it got to 40 below. But when I did pull the motor, which was only because I built a 468 for it, when I tore the motor apart, it was almost spotless on the inside. The rods, which were the worst, had barely anything on them. Looked like someone put them in a parts cleaner. IMO, doesn't matter what oil you use, as long as you change it!!

 

[LouF]

...clever folks at Oldsmobile were running RICE through the engine...

I never heard of that one. Good idea. Wonder what "specially prepared" rice meant.

They often use walnut shells in a machine for valve backside blasting of direct injection engines.


I'd suggest the steam cleaning as it is cheap, and I have had positive results from detonation; about a whole cup. Be very careful NOT TO HYDROLOCK THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER. I made a cap with a small tube to terminate the brake vacuum line - it gives much more control to sip off the water from a container. Then use Techron or Seafoam. There is the risk of clogging the catalytic converter or wedging at the valve seats after doing the carbon cleaning since chips are being removed and flying around, but the c.c. is supposedly cleanable by soaking (after removal) in soapy water (or acetone). Running acetone mixed in the fuel is touted for cleaning the c.c. (beware of damaging particular plastic parts in the fuel system). See Project Farm (PF) on YT for videos to see extensive testing and results on this topic/products/solvents as well as many opinions/comments. Either that or tear the engine down and hot-tank it or get a new one.

For oil pressure, clean the crankcase and pickup screen; I'd use kerosene for a soak - drain and save the oil first to do this; then refill with that saved oil. Next, run some kerosene (or ATF or Marvel's Mystery Oil) in the oil to breakdown sludge in the engine (of which smaller passages gets my attention).

This is what I've read, and I have done many; nothing damaging has happened, and positives have resulted. I did the crankcase soak, and, surprisingly, it was absolutely clean. Go on a binge watching and comment reading spree at PF channel to find quality comments.

I think it is well worth the maintenance. Do the steam and kerosene since the solvents are expensive, and you need heavy cleaning first.

It will be some effort and time. If you're not familiar with any if this, learn about it or don't do it, as damage can very easily happen - scoring a bearing or hydrolocking.

 

[b454rat]

Another trick I heard if the inside is really dirty, drain the oil and put tranny fluid in it. Don't drive it, but just let it idle and get up to temp. Tranny fluid has a lot of detergents that will clean the deposits....