Cranks but won't start.

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

I have a carbon monoxide detector set up in my garage. It's been very reliable. Can't get the thing to shut up when the Wife's Buick is in there, sitting at idle. Never once went off with my truck in there. Ok so that just means the exhaust is doing it's job... but then where is that sickening smell coming from?

An incorrectly timed engine, running poorly sends hydrocarbons (unburnt gasoline vapor) into the converter, poisoning said converter, burning your eyes, and producing a rotten egg smell. Excess HC is not CO, therefore the CO detector is still working.

 

[GoToGuy]

Pure carbon monoxide is odorless and tasteless, it's all the other chemicals along with it that tells you " something is bad here!" Don't die dumb, always have good ventilation, don't run engines in a closed area, don't become a Darwin statistics. " live long and prosper"

 

[DeCaff2007]

Gents.... the area is well ventilated, for sure. So timing and a possible failing ICM, again, are my possible culprits here, it seems.

Know what would help the MOST here? If I could actually SEE down inside the distributor well, so I can tell where that intermediate shaft is pointing. I simply cannot fit my head down there to look.

Now, I'm going to say this: I'm still not 100% sure that I'm at TDC with the timing marks aligned. A screwdriver won't work in this case. I'm going to get a cheap HF borescope so I can see inside the cylinder while rotating the engine by hand.

I appreciate the replies, I do, however, all of this week and some of next week, I won't be able to get near the garage.

Stay tuned.

 

[WICruiser-97]

As someone stated before it could be the two wire coolant temperature sensor that feeds the ECM is not reading. That would give your original CEL (not sure why no code). It would also mean the ECM thinks the engine is cold and provides fuel delivery associated with cold start even when the engine is warm. The coolant temperature gauge signal is from the one wire sensor and not related to the ECM temperature signal.

 

[DeCaff2007]

As someone stated before it could be the two wire coolant temperature sensor that feeds the ECM is not reading. That would give your original CEL (not sure why no code). It would also mean the ECM thinks the engine is cold and provides fuel delivery associated with cold start even when the engine is warm. The coolant temperature gauge signal is from the one wire sensor and not related to the ECM temperature signal.

So, even though the sensor is brand new and properly connected, there could still be an issue? Ok. How does one check this without a scan tool?

 

[tayto]

this thing will need to be tuned/chipped

 

[WICruiser-97]

Not sure how to check without a scan tool but new doesn't necessarily mean good. I believe there is a resistance between the two terminals that you can check cold, and hot to see if it is working but I do not know what the desired resistance values are.

 

[GoToGuy]

In the OE service manual , electric diagnostic there is a chart listing ohm , resistance checking temp sensors.

 

[Hipster]

after all that cranking.

all that glitters is not gold with HFT that's hasn't survived break-in.....yet.

 

[tayto]

doesn't OP have a hydro flat tappet cam? all this not getting the engine running is not good for the cam or the rings. i make sure my valve lash/lifter preload is set cold, check it 2 or 3 times. i like the EOIC method myself. drop dist in with #1 cyc @ TDC. this is EASY to do solo. pull #1 spark plug, shove a shop towel on the top of the #1 hole and turn the engine over with a long ratchet until you hear the rag blow off. then line up the balancer mark on 0 and drop your dist in with the rotor pointed at #1 cylinder. (also should have checked if you have the right balancer/timing cover pointer combo, i set this up when the heads are off with a dial indicator).if it doesn't drop down all the way then just bump the key and it will mesh up with the oil pump. once you flash it up, i use the warm up time to get the timing set and within 10-15 minutes you should be bringing up the rpm to do the cam break in. yet another reason a roller cam shaft is worth the extra $$$ and also why i just pay extra money and get the engine broken in on the dyno. WAY less heart ache and wondering "what if"....